Service brake efficiency below requirement 1.2.2(a)(i) What does this mean!!!!

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Sam Warder

Member
Posts
40
Hi All,
My defender 90 went in for MOT today and failed. the failure was Service brake efficiency below requirements. does anyone know what this means and how I can resolve this.

thanks, Sam
 
They probably mean handbrake.
Is it adjusted correctly? Have a look underneath does it look oily around/near? Was it actually tested properly?

J

Edit after being corrected service brake is not the handbrake so ignore my comment.
 
Last edited:
Take it to a mechanic. If you don't know what the issue is based off the description. Then I would seek professional advice on the brakes.

When they do a MOT they test all brakes (including handbrake) to see make sure they brake correctly.
 
I would also read that as handbrake. Maybe ask the MOT station exactly what they mean.
If it is the hand brake I would strip it down, clean and grease relevant parts then adjust it correctly.
If you are paying then ask them to adjust it and retest that item, which then can't fail as you have paid them to adjust it.
Regardless of that does it work? Put the handbrake on and try driving away, it shouldn't move at all. If it doesn't move then it works and the garage needs to explain a bit better.
 
Actually I think it is your brakes, according to Google.
When was the last time the fluid was changed and bled and the pads looked at?
 
Find for sure which brake/brakes is giving issues, they should be able to tell you. If one wheel brake is letting it down could be a sticking piston.
 
If you have drums on the back make sure they are adjusted correctly, makes a big difference.
Or even make sure the previous owner hasn't put the brake shoe springs in the wrong place!
 
Sam Warder said:
Hi All,
My defender 90 went in for MOT today and failed. the failure was Service brake efficiency below requirements. does anyone know what this means and how I can resolve this.

thanks, Sam
Click to expand...

It means your brakes are below the efficency level (over 58%).
This is worked out by measuring the weight the brakes produce / the total wieght of the vehicle.

Say the landrover wieghed 1700kgs then the total force of the brakes needs to be 986kgs.
Apoprox 500kgs per axle or 250kgs per wheel.

However, a Defender is a 4x4 AWD car so really they should use a Tapely meter or decelerometer or (if the tester knows his stuff) he can put the transfer box in neutral and test each axle.
You need to go back to the MOT station and ask them what they did/how they calculated that your brakes are inefficient.

Standard brake will stop you pretty well and (fortunately) your D90 is relative easy to work on.
New disks, pads and calipers aren't expensive.

Ask the garage and let us know what they said and we will give you some more pointers.
 
They must be real crap to fail the mot brake test.
Service brake is foot brake.
Did they give you the brake test print out?
 
Hicap phill said:
Did not think tapley meters have print outs ;)
Click to expand...
Actually the Bowmonk digital brake testers which are a replacement for the old-fashioned Tapley dial meters do you have a printer
They self calibrate then do you set them on the floor as per the old Tapley meters and carry out the brake test the same as the old ways
Problem with both of them is they only measure the overall brake efficiency and not on a wheel to wheel basis
 
On the subject of brake test rollers.
Do any of the rollers have a setting for permanent 4 wheel drive or isn't that possible?
I'm sure ours are put on the rollers for brake testing.
 
I shall just replace all brake pads and disks they should be the problem as it means not enough braking power i think
 
When I take the discs and pads off i can check the pistons as you have to push the pistons in the replace the pads
 
marjon said:
They probably mean handbrake.
Is it adjusted correctly? Have a look underneath does it look oily around/near? Was it actually tested properly?

J

Edit after being corrected service brake is not the handbrake so ignore my comment.
Click to expand...
I also thought it was the handbrake so you are not alone!

if it is the normal brakes then the first thing I would be looking at is the pads that are fitted. I failed an mot on brake efficiency having just fitted new but cheap pads (i was a student). I refitted the old ones and then passed. Good pads make a huge difference. looking at the pads will also give you an indication of the calliper conditions as it is common, especially on low usage vehicles, for the calliper pistons to seize.

If the garage tested it on rollers they should be able to tell you if it is font or rear that is the problem, and if it is all it is probably a hydraulic issue with a change of fluid and bleed being the first steps.
 
miktdish said:
Not to dampen your enthusiasm but that may not be the case.
You really do need to ask the MOT tester about his findings.
I could be a stuck piston in a caliper or the bias valve, or, as you say disks and pads.
Click to expand...
unless it needs discs I would not bother as disc do not really effect the braking efficiency unless they are in very poor condition.
 
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