Seris 3 fuel gauge

Mate of mine(think of the kenny everett diy character) has managed to have a bit of a wiring burn out whilst fitting a spotlight switch.

He has sorted it all out but the fuel gauge has stopped working.
He has asked me to try and fix it. Now I really do not want to take his dash apart and be greeted with the horrors of his wiring!
So what i'm thinking is to fit a stand alone new fuel gauge. I can pick the feed up from the sender unit no problem, but know gauges have a ohms range, so what gauge will fit a seris 3 12v sender unit?
Would something like this work?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universa...674713&hash=item41fb977222:g:qA4AAOSw98FbardO

Cheers chaps.

If it's a two wire jobby, check it to earth to see if the gauge works ok ...

Power to the fuel gauge circuit will be from a solid green wire off of the fuse box, going to the voltage stabiliser behind the instrument cluster...

A light green with a colour tracer wire will go from the stabiliser to one side of the fuel gauge...

The other side of the fuel gauge will have a dark green and black tracer wire that will go into the harness...

The dark green and black tracer wire should end up at your sending unit on top of the fuel tank... If the circuit is powered up and intact, the fuel gauge will go to full if you unplug the wire from your sending unit and ground the end of the wire, (the sender unit varies the resistance to ground as the tank empties),

If the fuel gauge doesn't go to full, the problem is likely an open in the circuit, and not a failed sender unit.

The dark green and black tracer wire is one of the wire connections in the multi wire plug connector going from the front harness to the rear harness... It could be cruded, also as the tank bolts rust up earth connection can be lost, might be worth checking or just adding a earth tag ...

The gauge would fit the spare gauge locations, it comes with its own sender unit, and says universal so it should, it’s cheap too , my sender unit has two connections , the other must be for the low fuel warning light. Personally I would just look to get original working , pulling the dash out is just 2 screws and you should be able to get where you need.

I would check voltage stabiliser mine went on the 101..bridged it and gauge worked cheaper to replace the stabiliser...I'm building a new dash so buying new fuel gauge to match temp and oil that I had to fit as original capilary were knackered...

Yes, check whether its supply is 12v or 10v and make sure they line up (ie 12v tap to 12v gauge etc.). dont worry too much about the actual reading - anything within a 1/4 tank is "calibrated" for series purposes, its "a guide" not "a measure" set the bar low and you'll be OK.

Need an analogue gauge to check the 10V as it is a switched supply to get 10v digital meter will give about 3V or 4 - 5 if on an Average setting just been trying to read one. Whilst testing a temperature gauge and sender.