series door posts

HIYA GUYS N GALS,

Just deciding wether to replace my door posts as well as my footwells
and just thought id ask here before i hack `em to bits.

i presume the order is, posts firsts then footwells, is this true?

also do any of you have any tips for me, or is it all straighgt
forwards,

thirdly, does anyone want to come and show me how there done

this all started by me wanting to clean my rather bashed landy up for
sale,


whilst im here i may as well as this as well......

theres absolutely no soundproofing at all in my series so i had the
idea of taking the underbonnet soundproofing out of my dads scrap
peugout and putting some around the transmission tunnel/ bulkhead and
under landys bonnet.
i think this is a great idea what thoughts has anyone else got.

im not intending getting it soaked anymore, been their, done that.

cheers


andy

On Sat, 31 Jul 2004 21:37:51 +0100, Andy <[email protected]> made me
spill my meths when he wrote:

>i presume the order is, posts firsts then footwells, is this true?

I'm going to guess that posts first might be the better way, while it
is off you might find it easier to remove the footwell. I drilled out
the welds on mine and fitted the pattern footwells in between the
differing sheets of metal in the bulkhead. It made for a neater job,
at least that's what I tohght on the right hand footwell. The left
hand one was cut out and welded straight in, soon tired of the purist
approach and it is just as strong

Whether you are doing it with the bulkhead in or out, I reckon a jig
of some sort to use as a reference point once the posts are out might
help, if only to keep the bulkhead from distorting or moving if it
gets knocked etc while you are wrestling with it. Even a length of
Dexion racking post tack welded into place is better than nothing.

I found that taking the seat box out made a big difference to getting
in there. Before you try it and decide it isn't necessary to remove
it, have a go from both sides. I'm left handed and found it a pig of a
job doing the right hand footwell as I had to get my left shoulder
right in there and allow for the welding mask. Another reason for not
farting around with the left hand footwell.

>also do any of you have any tips for me, or is it all straighgt
>forwards,
Have a mate to watch you and the immediate area for things burning.
You don't feel the weld spatter as it goes through the first two
layers of clothing.

>theres absolutely no soundproofing at all in my series so i had the
>idea of taking the underbonnet soundproofing out of my dads scrap
>peugout and putting some around the transmission tunnel/ bulkhead and
>under landys bonnet.
>i think this is a great idea what thoughts has anyone else got.

I've seen some pretty good insulation used in the building trade, it's
a bit like lead sheeting in appearance, sometimes with an adhesive
backing. Cuts well and does a good job on stopping panels drumming,
not at all expensive compared to the retail kits you can buy. You'll
have to ask at the desk if they have anything that matches that
description, I forget who made it, I blagged it from a load of offcuts
from a building site, I think it was used to stop parts of a large
ducting conduit from making a load of noise. Make patterns up out of
paper then transfer the one that works to the soundproofing.
Wilkinsons (or Wilko at www.wilko.co.uk) have 5 gallon tins of black
roofing felt adhesive for £6.50 that does a good job of holding it in
place. The website doesn't seem to show half of their shop stock but
they are worth checking out.


--
Wayne Davies - Mobile 07989 556213 - Harrogate, N.Yorks, UK

You are talking to a guy who has em as rotten as any

My footwells I have done what the previos guy done and stuck em back up with
filler and fibreglass. Well if it lasts me a year then that will do.

Door posts is seriosly F... U know the rest and since that ain't an MOT
matter I am going to use the same solution as the bastard that passed it on
to me, at least I will know what I filled in.

Yep if she rolls, she is gonna squash me, but I am made of strong stuff and
face it I have been in a lot less safe motors, if I got meself an etype I
reckon that would be a lot bigger risk.

I have never rolled anything yet and I have been in a landie at 45% which
was scary but I reckon I can go a lot further than I think I can
notwithstanding you are not supposed to descend a slope on a diagonal not
that it stops me.

Yep your fundamental idiot that is me

You say you can't do it and I will just to prove you wrong .


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes
(and ****ed)




From: "Andy" <[email protected]>
Subject: series door posts
Date: 31 July 2004 21:37

HIYA GUYS N GALS,

Just deciding wether to replace my door posts as well as my footwells
and just thought id ask here before i hack `em to bits.

i presume the order is, posts firsts then footwells, is this true?

also do any of you have any tips for me, or is it all straighgt
forwards,

thirdly, does anyone want to come and show me how there done

this all started by me wanting to clean my rather bashed landy up for
sale,


whilst im here i may as well as this as well......

theres absolutely no soundproofing at all in my series so i had the
idea of taking the underbonnet soundproofing out of my dads scrap
peugout and putting some around the transmission tunnel/ bulkhead and
under landys bonnet.
i think this is a great idea what thoughts has anyone else got.

im not intending getting it soaked anymore, been their, done that.

cheers


andy


"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> HIYA GUYS N GALS,
>
> Just deciding wether to replace my door posts as well as my footwells
> and just thought id ask here before i hack `em to bits.
>
> i presume the order is, posts firsts then footwells, is this true?
>
> also do any of you have any tips for me, or is it all straighgt
> forwards,
>
> thirdly, does anyone want to come and show me how there done
>
> this all started by me wanting to clean my rather bashed landy up for
> sale,
>
>
> whilst im here i may as well as this as well......
>
> theres absolutely no soundproofing at all in my series so i had the
> idea of taking the underbonnet soundproofing out of my dads scrap
> peugout and putting some around the transmission tunnel/ bulkhead and
> under landys bonnet.
> i think this is a great idea what thoughts has anyone else got.
>
> im not intending getting it soaked anymore, been their, done that.
>
> cheers
>
>
> andy

On Sat, 31 Jul 2004 21:37:51 +0100, Andy <[email protected]> made me
spill my meths when he wrote:

>i presume the order is, posts firsts then footwells, is this true?

I'm going to guess that posts first might be the better way, while it
is off you might find it easier to remove the footwell. I drilled out
the welds on mine and fitted the pattern footwells in between the
differing sheets of metal in the bulkhead. It made for a neater job,
at least that's what I tohght on the right hand footwell. The left
hand one was cut out and welded straight in, soon tired of the purist
approach and it is just as strong

Whether you are doing it with the bulkhead in or out, I reckon a jig
of some sort to use as a reference point once the posts are out might
help, if only to keep the bulkhead from distorting or moving if it
gets knocked etc while you are wrestling with it. Even a length of
Dexion racking post tack welded into place is better than nothing.

I found that taking the seat box out made a big difference to getting
in there. Before you try it and decide it isn't necessary to remove
it, have a go from both sides. I'm left handed and found it a pig of a
job doing the right hand footwell as I had to get my left shoulder
right in there and allow for the welding mask. Another reason for not
farting around with the left hand footwell.

>also do any of you have any tips for me, or is it all straighgt
>forwards,
Have a mate to watch you and the immediate area for things burning.
You don't feel the weld spatter as it goes through the first two
layers of clothing.

>theres absolutely no soundproofing at all in my series so i had the
>idea of taking the underbonnet soundproofing out of my dads scrap
>peugout and putting some around the transmission tunnel/ bulkhead and
>under landys bonnet.
>i think this is a great idea what thoughts has anyone else got.

I've seen some pretty good insulation used in the building trade, it's
a bit like lead sheeting in appearance, sometimes with an adhesive
backing. Cuts well and does a good job on stopping panels drumming,
not at all expensive compared to the retail kits you can buy. You'll
have to ask at the desk if they have anything that matches that
description, I forget who made it, I blagged it from a load of offcuts
from a building site, I think it was used to stop parts of a large
ducting conduit from making a load of noise. Make patterns up out of
paper then transfer the one that works to the soundproofing.
Wilkinsons (or Wilko at www.wilko.co.uk) have 5 gallon tins of black
roofing felt adhesive for £6.50 that does a good job of holding it in
place. The website doesn't seem to show half of their shop stock but
they are worth checking out.


--
Wayne Davies - Mobile 07989 556213 - Harrogate, N.Yorks, UK

You are talking to a guy who has em as rotten as any

My footwells I have done what the previos guy done and stuck em back up with
filler and fibreglass. Well if it lasts me a year then that will do.

Door posts is seriosly F... U know the rest and since that ain't an MOT
matter I am going to use the same solution as the bastard that passed it on
to me, at least I will know what I filled in.

Yep if she rolls, she is gonna squash me, but I am made of strong stuff and
face it I have been in a lot less safe motors, if I got meself an etype I
reckon that would be a lot bigger risk.

I have never rolled anything yet and I have been in a landie at 45% which
was scary but I reckon I can go a lot further than I think I can
notwithstanding you are not supposed to descend a slope on a diagonal not
that it stops me.

Yep your fundamental idiot that is me

You say you can't do it and I will just to prove you wrong .


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes
(and ****ed)




From: "Andy" <[email protected]>
Subject: series door posts
Date: 31 July 2004 21:37

HIYA GUYS N GALS,

Just deciding wether to replace my door posts as well as my footwells
and just thought id ask here before i hack `em to bits.

i presume the order is, posts firsts then footwells, is this true?

also do any of you have any tips for me, or is it all straighgt
forwards,

thirdly, does anyone want to come and show me how there done

this all started by me wanting to clean my rather bashed landy up for
sale,


whilst im here i may as well as this as well......

theres absolutely no soundproofing at all in my series so i had the
idea of taking the underbonnet soundproofing out of my dads scrap
peugout and putting some around the transmission tunnel/ bulkhead and
under landys bonnet.
i think this is a great idea what thoughts has anyone else got.

im not intending getting it soaked anymore, been their, done that.

cheers


andy


"Andy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> HIYA GUYS N GALS,
>
> Just deciding wether to replace my door posts as well as my footwells
> and just thought id ask here before i hack `em to bits.
>
> i presume the order is, posts firsts then footwells, is this true?
>
> also do any of you have any tips for me, or is it all straighgt
> forwards,
>
> thirdly, does anyone want to come and show me how there done
>
> this all started by me wanting to clean my rather bashed landy up for
> sale,
>
>
> whilst im here i may as well as this as well......
>
> theres absolutely no soundproofing at all in my series so i had the
> idea of taking the underbonnet soundproofing out of my dads scrap
> peugout and putting some around the transmission tunnel/ bulkhead and
> under landys bonnet.
> i think this is a great idea what thoughts has anyone else got.
>
> im not intending getting it soaked anymore, been their, done that.
>
> cheers
>
>
> andy