series 3 new leaf springs, now sitting at different heights

herby1 said:

Ah ok, was going to ask, thanks for clarifying.
spoke to a mate last night who say's he does shackle/chassis bolts just tight so shackle moves freely by hand, then cranks up lock nut really tight, is this b/s ? seems to be varying info online.

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Read the manual. A section of which was posted by Steve above.

The manual was written by the people who built the vehicle. They know more than your mate, because they are qualified motor engineers, and designed and built the vehicle.

Ok, was just asking.
Again, varying information online ( youtube & others ) about tightening shackle bolts )

herby1 said:

Ok, was just asking.
Again, varying information online ( youtube & others ) about tightening shackle bolts )

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The internet is the modern day equivalent of the man in the pub.

The manual always knows best.

Turboman said:

Shouldn't make any difference at all.
Some people think if you have polys you can tighten the bolts before lowering the vehicle. I don't, so I don't.

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Thank you

I think there's a snag with polybushes, in that the cores and bushes relatively easy to spin when compared with oems. So following the proper procedure is a bit of a waste of time they'll just rotate to where the spring wants to be. It's another reason I don't use them.

boguing said:

I think there's a snag with polybushes, in that the cores and bushes relatively easy to spin when compared with oems. So following the proper procedure is a bit of a waste of time they'll just rotate to where the spring wants to be. It's another reason I don't use them.

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The two part polys, which are shaped a bit like a top hat, the spring hanger presses into the flange of the bush, so they don't rotate very much.
I have used both types over the years with success, not had any problems with them at all.
The only place I wouldn't use them is on the Panhard rod of coil spring vehicles.