Series 3, 2.25 petrol alternator

Hi all, I think my alternator is kaput on my 74 series 3 2.25 petrol, it doesn't seem to want to charge battery, so rather than umm-ing and ah-ring, I'm just gonna put a new 1 on, am I right in thinking that a Lucas one with the part no. RTC5084N will suffice?

RTC5084N 17ACR ALTERNATOR ASSEMBLY | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series in answer to your question yes as it supersedes the Lucas 16ACR

Got the new alternator, but in true landy fashion, the wiring is buggered... I traced the wires, and found one wire running through the bulkhead, which I'm presuming is the warning light on the dash, the other two, with the larger spade connectors were simply twisted together and wrapped in duct tape! Looking in the Haynes book of lies I've discovered (I think) that one should be an earth and the other to the solenoid, but which is which, as the colours are nothing like original... Can anyone help?

Nooo!! Both wires to the battery positive on the solenoid - or wire direct to the battery NOT to earth!
The thin wire from the spade terminal (or 3 pin plug) goes to the ignition light.

there are some good wiring diagrams in the works manual, see:- pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com

Am I the only one who has never fitted a new dynamo, alternator of starter motor to any of my Landies? For a fraction of the price of new, why not get them rewound and refurbed? At least they will be back to the original spec!

OSD

The new one only cost me 30 notes from me local landy shop, plus it's got a 2yr warranty and I didn't have 2 wait for it being sent off

My local "auto electrician" shut up shop years ago - it's a 30 mile round trip to my nearest one, now. Can't see me refurbishing another unless I do it myself.

Well I've followed the diagram as posted by oxides, and I've still no charge, any clues?

Well I've followed the diagram as posted by oxides, and I've still no charge, any clues?

Have you wired it to the right side of the solenoid?

I've tried it to both the battery positive and top pin on the solenoid terminal (right next to the terminal where the battery positive lead attaches) but neither makes a difference

Battery positive should work. Check the continuity of the wire from battery to alternator and measure the voltage at the battery with and without the engine running. The last thing you can try is measuring the voltage at the alternator plug. You might have a buggered alternator - I presume you didn't at any point connect one of the terminals to earth 'cos I suspect that would destroy the regulator pretty quickly.

Not to my memory, do you know the size of the wires from the alternator? The ones on (I think) are 17amp, and would that make a difference?

I think that alternator's about 60W so 17 amp should be more than adequate.

nice one, just taken the alternator back to the shop, so tonight is gunna be round 2, so both cables straight to the battery positive, and the third smaller wire to the waning light, no earth?

The earth is through the casing, fastened to the engine, which is fastened to the chassis which is fastened to the negative of the battery... so it does have an earth... it is just 'pre-wired' for you

aah i see, thort it might be summat like that... :der:

i'd like to add too, got the first alternator and it was just a generic one reconned, took it back and got a nice shiny genuine lucas one... result!

New alternator is in, but it ain't chargin right good :s

Is your battery OK? A dead battery will not charge and will drag down the alternator volts. You really need to measure the voltage at the battery.

The battery is reading good with the tester, but with the engine running, it's only reading low, unless I give it some juice, and then it picks up, but surely it should be charging at a consistent rate, regardless of the engine revs