Hi just got a series 1, 1953. It has a series 3 motor apparently. Reservoir for brake and clutch seem to be under the drivers seat, one is empty so... is Dot 4 Brake fluid synthetic ok, in either of these? Can’t find any reference to position of my brake /clutch fluid fillers being under seat online (and not sure if I should be searching S1 or S3). Yes, I’m very much a newbie hi, your advice is appreciated.
Series 1 Landie - clutch and brake reservoir
- Thread starter StuBro
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Hicap phill
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Where do the peddles come from?
Direct out the floor ?
(Take a photo to help)
This may help in locating things.
Direct out the floor ?
(Take a photo to help)
This may help in locating things.
Hi yes sure, I’ve pretty much sussed the big reservoir, shown here through the seat hatch, is the brake and other, other side of chassis, is clutch. For the record the brake and clutch go through floor, gas goes to side of chassis. The big reservoir is all but empty, so hope to put some in. Still some pump on brakes so I think caught in time and don’t need to bleed.
Can you or anyone confirm what sort of brake fluid, is Dot 4 synthetic going to be ok?
Can you or anyone confirm what sort of brake fluid, is Dot 4 synthetic going to be ok?
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S1 has cylinders under the seat/floor, Dot 3 or 4 is what you want, avoid anything synthetic.
The DOT system used to be simple it was either Dot 2 3 or 4, all Dots are meant to be compatable with each other, then they bought out DOT5 which is syn and NOT compatable! next is was Dot5.1 which is compatable, then Dot4 class 6 which is compatable, and is what most mainstream modern motors run.
So in essence you want the cheapest stuff you can lay your hands on, but if the system is empty it is because the fluid has leaked out somewhere.
If you are having to pump the pedal, you already have air in there, and it will need bleeding.
The DOT system used to be simple it was either Dot 2 3 or 4, all Dots are meant to be compatable with each other, then they bought out DOT5 which is syn and NOT compatable! next is was Dot5.1 which is compatable, then Dot4 class 6 which is compatable, and is what most mainstream modern motors run.
So in essence you want the cheapest stuff you can lay your hands on, but if the system is empty it is because the fluid has leaked out somewhere.
If you are having to pump the pedal, you already have air in there, and it will need bleeding.
Last edited:
No not mineral, just not synthetic either, see if pic is better.
Dry boiling point Wet boiling point[a] Viscosity at -40 °C°F Viscosity at 100 °C (212 °F) Primary constituent
DOT 2 190 °C (374 °F) 140 °C (284 °F) ? ? castor oil/alcohol
DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) 140 °C (284 °F) ≤ 1500 mm2/s ≥ 1.5 mm2/s glycol ether
DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F) ≤ 1800 mm2/s ≥ 1.5 mm2/s glycol ether/borate ester
DOT 4+ 230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F) ≤ 750 mm2/s ≥ 1.5 mm2/s glycol ether/borate ester
LHM+ 249 °C (480 °F) 249 °C (480 °F) ≤ 1200 mm2/s[14] ≥ 6.5 mm2/s mineral oil
DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F) ≤ 900 mm2/s ≥ 1.5 mm2/s silicone
DOT 5.1 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F) ≤ 900 mm2/s ≥ 1.5 mm2/s glycol ether/borate ester
DOT 5.1 ESP 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F) ≤ 750 mm2/s ≥ 1.5 mm2/s glycol ether/borate ester
That did not copy well,
Any thoughts on following advice, from (‘https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/)’ - they suggest synthetic is ok, if not even better, but I’m happy to err on side of caution!
2. WHAT IS THE COMPATIBILITY BETWEEN SYNTHETICS AND CONVENTIONAL DOT 3 AND 4 IN MOST VEHICLES? IS A COMPLETE FLUSH WITH NEW RUBBER A BETTER CHOICE? IS THERE ANY CHANCE OF SEAL SWELLING OR DISINTEGRATION IN OLDER VEHICLES, SAY FROM THE 1930S, 1940S OR EVEN IN THE 1960S?
All DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluids are compatible with each other and with all systems. All polyethylene glycol-based fluids will not harm healthy rubber parts. Also, the additive packages will not damage or distort any rubber parts. Even an older rubber part with a high concentration of natural rubber will not be damaged by new DOT rated brake fluids.
What kills rubber parts is when the additive package breaks down. The additive package controls the pH of the fluid and the viscosity. If the brake fluid becomes unable to control the pH or other corrosive elements, the rubber and metal parts will deteriorate over time. If you have an older vehicle and are worried about boiling the fluid, use DOT 4 or 5.1 brake fluid.
2. WHAT IS THE COMPATIBILITY BETWEEN SYNTHETICS AND CONVENTIONAL DOT 3 AND 4 IN MOST VEHICLES? IS A COMPLETE FLUSH WITH NEW RUBBER A BETTER CHOICE? IS THERE ANY CHANCE OF SEAL SWELLING OR DISINTEGRATION IN OLDER VEHICLES, SAY FROM THE 1930S, 1940S OR EVEN IN THE 1960S?
All DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluids are compatible with each other and with all systems. All polyethylene glycol-based fluids will not harm healthy rubber parts. Also, the additive packages will not damage or distort any rubber parts. Even an older rubber part with a high concentration of natural rubber will not be damaged by new DOT rated brake fluids.
What kills rubber parts is when the additive package breaks down. The additive package controls the pH of the fluid and the viscosity. If the brake fluid becomes unable to control the pH or other corrosive elements, the rubber and metal parts will deteriorate over time. If you have an older vehicle and are worried about boiling the fluid, use DOT 4 or 5.1 brake fluid.
Hicap phill
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- Wiltshire
Using newer oils in older motors does not always work.
Plus you may mot be able to find quality S1 rubbers to replace.
(Unless they have change the axles/brake cylinders to S3?)
Plus you may mot be able to find quality S1 rubbers to replace.
(Unless they have change the axles/brake cylinders to S3?)
