Security Measures in my Ex MOD Series 3

Evenin All,
Having just had my series 3 attacked by having the door top prized out I have been looking at ways to deadlock the doors, top and bottom. Has anyone tried this?, is there a 'How to'? Do we keep succesful security measures away from the eyes of the ne'er-do-wells that could arm themselves with the knowledge? I live in Liverpool. Anyone know of a deadlock, automotive or otherwise, that would work. The local Landy place is currently recommending buying Defender doors to replace the two piece original, which price- and messing-wise is making sense, but I'm baulking at the idea of taking the original doors off.
I want to secure it but not end up with bits of angle iron welded all over it.:ballchain: Suggestions please.

Thank You

Chris

:dnfnoob:

In short, this is a big problem, the doors do easily bend away. Criminals could also bend defender doors, so, personally i'd stick with the series doors.

There isn't a "how to" guide on fixing deadbolts for top and bottom.

Do you have a (proper) DiskLok on it? If not GET ONE NOW. Having highly visible deterrents is always a benefit. The full proper Diskloks are the best steering wheel protection you can get. Highly skilled criminals can still remove them in (i think) 2 minutes, but, for your average car thief they don't bother and move to another vehicle.

Don't leave ANYTHING at all in the landy, install a fuel cut off switch or similar too in a hidden place - or just remove the battery all together. Again, organised criminals may bring a battery, but, it stops those just passing hopping in.

What you could consider is attaching internally some anchor points to the doors and put a ratchet strap between them to stop them being bent out at the top - however, this would then require you to exit the Landy by the back door. Maybe a temporary solution - they may come back.

There was a thread on here recently about a guy who had his landy stolen. He eventually found it albeit in bits but he did point out that the deadlocks he had fitted to the doors had given the thieves a ****load of trouble. Made me consider getting some for mine

I have a real heavy duty chain from the roll cage to steering wheel. Also a wheel lock. I left mine in work for 5 days last week and removed the king lead from the dizzy. You can buy immobilisers and so on.
Best deterrent is a f**k off rottweiler asleep on the seat ; )

or just break it... mine spends half it's life not working... if a criminal could get it working and gone in it before i woke up, tbh, they deserve it.

I did find having no back axle as a very good deterrent for nearly a year


and if i leave it for any length of time i take a wheel or two off.

Thanks for your thoughts.
As I have no intention of taking the hard top off (I live in Liverpool), I have been considering deadlocks mounted on the hard top bolting into female components on the door, Anyone tried this? I know it won't stop the determined s***bag from getting in, but may put the opportunist off.
Looking at trackers but not wanting to pay through nose. Has anyone tried the cheapo £20 ones on ebay? I think they're chinese and advertise as being run off a sim card without the need for a company to activate it. The sim in the tracker sends GPS coordinates to another phone on request, or so it would appear.
My Dads mate used to take off his steering wheel, and one night disturbed two s***s driving his series 3 off the path with mole grips! If they want it bad enough, they're gonna get it.

All suggestions welcome,

Chris

What about welding some external lugs on the doors (as many as you like) and just padlock the hell out of it.

Its much easier to leave nothing in it and stop it from being stolen outright. As long as you can immobilise the engine, gearbox or pedals, then you should be ok in most situations.

I have thought that a decent length bicycle D-lock across the pedals might be a good one. Some of those D-locks are very hard to cut even with an angle grinder.

I have saved up a certain part of my soul for the fact that it might just get nicked one day. All it means is insurance payout and a new project, if your a glass half full person.

Still, you can't beat a lockup garage easily, rent one maybe?

are you not wanting people getting in it or not having it driven away?

i had a mk2 cortina in the 80's which you could open and start with any key you could get in the lock. can't remeber how i did it but i put a hidden switch in the ignition wire so you could cut the power off.

Frosts did a battery terminal - may still do - that had a bit you could pull out and take with you so the car had no power, it had a small wire that kept some power going in to run the clock etc.

You're buying time with these devices. I have a pedal lock and steering lock on mine. They would need to make noise to remove them. In my opinion if you fit dead locks and extra padlocks etc. you will probably just experience more brute force and panel damage. Ow about a basic alarm with a pressure pad sensor under the drivers seat? Siren in the Landy.

Ideally I'd like a cloak of invisibility while it's outside the house. Unfortunately the scum around here,once inside and unable to start it, would do unspeakable things to it out of anger, so I'm going for initial deterrence, ie with the deadlocks and high vis wheel lock, in the hope that they'll realise it's a non starter,and jog on. Still researching the tracker though in case the worst happens. I live in Liverpool. I have been plunged to the depths of despair on a number of occasions, the initial realisation that your car's gone is mild to finding the remains in a field near to a housing estate. Wanna kinda keep hold of this one! Still trying to find one that locks the doors when they're inside and emits CS gas into the car. If someone could get that through Thatcham it'd go like hot cakes.

Have you thought of my mr bean approach

Drill an 8mm hole in the roof gutter above the door in the centre then drill a same size hole in a foot length of 1"x1" angle iron then padlock the angle iron to the gutter trapping the door then to take the play out of it weld a washer to the padlock shackle so it cannot move

Or rivbet the a gle iron to the top of the door then padlock it through the gutter

Don't forget to lock down the bonnet as it don't take too much to put a 12v wire to the pump and overide the hidden switch.

Thanks for the ideas/advice. I've got some idea myself aswell. I'll report in due course. I'll get hold of a Chinese tracker and maybe road test it. The irony of the whole thing is that if they'd applied a fraction of the energy exerted damaging the door tops on the sliding window, it would have plopped quietly onto the drivers seat, and I wouldn't have been subjected to hearing the traumatic creaks of my steed being tortured. Thanks again all.

You could fit an isolator for the battery in a hidden place like behind the seat or even in the underseat toolbox if you really wanted it out of sight Theres also the clutch claw which seems like a good thing, my dads got one for the 110

Midlifechrisis48 said:

Thanks for your thoughts.
As I have no intention of taking the hard top off (I live in Liverpool), I have been considering deadlocks mounted on the hard top bolting into female components on the door, Anyone tried this? I know it won't stop the determined s***bag from getting in, but may put the opportunist off.
Looking at trackers but not wanting to pay through nose. Has anyone tried the cheapo £20 ones on ebay? I think they're chinese and advertise as being run off a sim card without the need for a company to activate it. The sim in the tracker sends GPS coordinates to another phone on request, or so it would appear.
My Dads mate used to take off his steering wheel, and one night disturbed two s***s driving his series 3 off the path with mole grips! If they want it bad enough, they're gonna get it.

All suggestions welcome,

Chris

Click to expand...

Pm Ryder on here, He is a tracker specialist. And the small amount of money for his system is a bargain. How much do you value your series??????

Midlifechrisis48 said:

Thanks for the ideas/advice. I've got some idea myself aswell. I'll report in due course. I'll get hold of a Chinese tracker and maybe road test it. The irony of the whole thing is that if they'd applied a fraction of the energy exerted damaging the door tops on the sliding window, it would have plopped quietly onto the drivers seat, and I wouldn't have been subjected to hearing the traumatic creaks of my steed being tortured. Thanks again all.

Click to expand...

Bad point with a cheap Chinese tracker is the cops can not track it. Ryders does

Stick a micro-switch under the seat couples to a securely attached siren in the back!

When any weight is put on the seat the siren goes off.

Switch it from a concealed point that you can access before getting in.

Deafen the B'Stards!

hehehe i like that idea

Oldseadog said:

Stick a micro-switch under the seat couples to a securely attached siren in the back!

When any weight is put on the seat the siren goes off.

Switch it from a concealed point that you can access before getting in.

Deafen the B'Stards!

Click to expand...

I had actually found a 12 volt air raid style siren that I 'm going to put in a cage at the back of the hard top as a counter measure. Maybe a really bright strobe flash as well... Perhaps not, they might start dancing. Seriously though I had considered the sensory deprivation approach when I flippantly suggested CS gas. I have had a look at some form of non igniting smoke emitter but I may be going a bit over the top.
I found some garage door locking deadbolts with a 6" throw that I'm looking at fixing in the hard top and to brackets or holes in the doors. They come keyed alike, so I could have deadbolted tops and bottoms on both sides with one key and maybe one on the back door. Unfortunately, electrics are not my strongpoint, so any cut out switches will have to be left in the hands of a local auto electrician. I liked the idea I read somewhere on here of a switch that hides in plain sight on the dash, a toggle like all the others, but is a three position switch that only connects on the centre position.
Am going to be spending the Bank Holiday weekend pouring epoxy resin into old doortops to examine its strengthening effects.
I would rather have spent it fitting and polishing the new rocky mountain doortops I won't now be ordering, or at least until I get a garage!
Thanks Everyone.