security codes new engine

We have acquired a 98 petrol Freelander with a blown engine which we will replace with a diesel engine.
Has anyone had experience with replacement engines and the issues that will rise with the security codes for the engine immobiliser and the door keys. Will the ignition need to be changed to match the codes (or vice versa)?
We'll be doing the engine change over ourselves ( we like a challenge??), but the whole security electronics thing is the biggest worry.
The car does not have its owners manual as it was left by the last disgruntled owner at the Landrover dealership when they informed him of the new engine that was required, so we have no access to security codes for the remote locks, radio or engine management unit.
Any assistance from people with experience would be appreciated.

debndave said:

The car does not have its owners manual as it was left by the last disgruntled owner at the Landrover dealership

Click to expand...

This happened at MJ Fews in Charfield. Same one?

Cheers

Blippie

You Will Need To Retune The New Engine Ecu To The Immobiliser Using "test Book" But Other Than Changing Harness Over To Suit The Diesel Engine Which Has A Bosch Ecu You Should Be Ok.

Best Of Luck, It's Not An Easy Or Straightforward Job, So Take Your Time.

SparkyJohn, thats not ALL that needs doing, suggest DebNDave have a read of Bandits thread here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/convert-petrol-diesel-38396.html?highlight=petrol+to+diesel+swop Wiring loom is the major hurdle.....

Thank you to all who have been kind enough to reply for your input. I will read the thread you have suggested Cashybai.
As it turns out, we are getting the whole front of the car - including wiring harness, gearbox, dash, ignition, exhaust and of course the whole engine. We are in Brisbane, Aust. and the engine is being transported up from Melbourne. It should arrive Thursday 19th, so the first job will be to take some close up photographs of the diesel motor before we remove it from the carcass, so that we have something to compare with when installing the wiring harness, etc.
I am not sure if that means we will not have the problems we were expecting with the security codes, as the ECU and immobiliser will belong to the same engine??? I am not sure what 'test book' is sparkyjohn5, but hope we don't need it!!!!!
Will take a look at Bandit's thread now.
Thanks again, I shall keep you posted on how the job goes.

Hi all, thought I would give you a quick update on our 'project'. The replacement engine arrived - quite amazing. The wreckers had just used a giant cutting device to cut through the roof, windscreen, door pillars and floor to separate the whole front of the car and send it to us on a palette!
The bloke we dealt with had said that we could attach wheels to it, and just drive it away, and he was right - well, almost. There was the dash and steering wheel sitting there with the keys in the ignition, half a windscreen, and the whole front of the car minus panels and wheels. It means we've ended up with a lot of extra spare parts which is good.
Only small bits have been changed over so far, such as the dash (needed for the glow plugs and other diesel bits), and a few odds and sods under the bonnet. The new exhaust has gone on, and the diesel fuel tank.
One issue that has risen is that the petrol car had abs, the diesel did not. As we are not sure if the bosch ecu in the diesel would be programmed to accept abs, we probably wont be able to install it.
The gear boxes appear to be identical, so since the original one seems to be in good condition ( no nasty bits of metal in the drained oil), we'll leave it in place for now.
Tomorrow is Saturday, and more work will be done then, so will keep you posted. It may help someone else who wants to go down this path to know what problems we strike as we go along.

what diesal are you fitting?, what happend to the petrol engine? HGF?

If the diesel engine is arriving with original ECU and Immobiliser from when it was a runner you should be ok,no need for TEST BOOK, (this by the way is the the main DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT used by Land Rover dealers all over the world, your nearest Dealer should have one, even in OZ.
Make sure when it arrives you check the Lithium batteries in remote control as this has a Transponder in it that Remobilises alarm unit after inserting key in ignition.
BEST OF LUCK

You have to use Test Book to change configuration for ABS, this is done by dealer by checking and changing Item listed under DEALER CONFIGURATION if I remember correctly

Is it possible then that the ecu can be programmed to accept the abs? That would be good! The ecu, ignition and keys are all from the same car, so I will be sure to change the batteries before turning the ignition. I am wondering if the remotes from the petrol engine ignition can be reprogrammed to match the new lock?
The diesel we are putting in is the L series, it has 135,000lkm on the clock, so has not done too much. The car was rear- ended and all the damage that led to it going to the wreckers was in the back, so the front of the car and engine was fine.
The petrol engine is sitting here in pieces. There is a brand new head with it, which has never been installed - it was just in the car on the floor with the old head. The conrod? in the engine block is a bit stiff, so we think the car got hotter than just blowing the head gasket, and may have damaged the engine. Three of the cylinder liners are missing, but everything else looks alright. The owner was ropable about the whole thing, and left the car at the dealers for a long time (refused to pick it up), so things went missing and no one knows where they ended up. We contacted the owner to try to locate them esp the manual, but he didn't even want to talk about the car - the whole affair has left him very upset.
I am interested to know if anyone knows of any obd software that is available for this engine? I don't think the car is OBDII compatible, it only has wires to the 4th (ground I think), 7th and 16th (power I think, or vice versa with the 4th pin) pins. Have been searching the internet, and emailing possible makers, but so far no luck.
Thanks to all who are reading my posts, every bit of info is a great help!!!
Will keep you posted.

All the remote controls for Freelander up to 2001 are the same and can be reprogrammed for either engine.
Not sure about the OBD issue,sorry.

Thanks Sparkyjohn, that's good to know as we'll have a couple of spares.
The diesel engine was removed from its carcass yesterday, and today we will change the timing belts on it (since we don't know if or when they were done) while the engine is out of the car.
Then the scary bit starts - putting it all back in again. Hope all goes smoothly!
It is such a cute little car - silver 3 door, with a body kit - stripey things on the sides, and bolt on mudguards, and very nice condition (like new) inside. I just hope it turns out to be somewhat as good as our TDI Discovery, which is such an honest and economical car. We used to have a Japanese 4WD until that car, and we'd never go back to them again. The Disco pulls the horse float with ease, but is such a nice and cheap car to drive every day as well. Mechanically, it has not given us a minute's worry (touch wood), so we tolerate the silly door handles and doors that wont open immediately, and the hard - to - locate squeaks in the dash - call them character rather than annoyances. Every car has it's issues!!!!

Hello all,

Well today was the day! New engine in, fuel tank etc, and all wired up.
Diesel,oil and coolant in the engine - then it was time to turn the key.
She starts, runs beautifully for 10 seconds then stops!!!
We were so worried about the security stuff that we didn't think about anything else stopping our progress, so after accidentally setting off the alarm and working out how to turn it off again, then figuring out how to turn off the immobiliser (we've never had a car with a security system before - our Disco is pre security) - we thought we were home and hosed.
However, our joy with success was premature, as we ponder what might be wrong.
The only lights staying on on the dash are the ABS and the 'open door' light - not sure why, as all the doors were closed.
So, we're not sure what is going on. The most likely problem we think, is air in the fuel line??? Considering the engine was completely drained of fuel, this is a strong possibility we think. The other possibility is that we have not connected the pump in the fuel tank (if it has one). The wrecker did send up the wiring harness for the back end, but we didn't use it. Maybe we have missed a connection there. The engine sounds great for the few seconds it runs for, very smooth, and the 'start panicking' (red exclamation) light is not lit on the dash, so god willing, it is not a serious problem.
I thought I would check that there are not any quirky things that will stop the engine from starting - like open doors, clutch not depressed, etc.
As we don't have a handbook we cannot check these things.
Also, very important - if it does eventually go, how do I enter the code into the radio? We have the code, but I have no idea what the proceedure is to input it - what to press and when.
Keep your fingers crossed - it's off to bed now, but tomorrow we will start the process of looking for likely causes of our problem.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

sounds like you had it easier then me lol

as i had a rover 200 engine sitting here i used that but lots of diff parts had to be changed not hard changing them but getting hold of them is different.

the pump is on the engine on the diesel one but in the tank of the petrol, did you change the sender unit in the tank? also you will have a spare pipe onece you put the diesel unit in, so make sure you have connected the correct pipes up as one on the petrol is just a breather.

wiring might be a problem too check thr earthing points

hope this helps,

dean

Bandit, this was a big enough job using an engine made for the car - can't imagine how you successfully did it with a different one!!!
We checked all the connections, and the line to the fuel tank and all is good. We have fuel to the little bleed thingy on the fuel pump in the engine, so we know fuel is getting that far.
The Inlet Air Temperature Sensor got broken during the installation, and we tried to use the petrol engine one, but it is different and did not fit. We put the broken one back in place, but it is not working. The ECU assumes a default for that so we figured the car would at least run, maybe a bit rough, but maybe this is stopping the car from continuing to run?
We're also a bit suspicious of the immobiliser, as we did not change the unit behind the dash - CCU - which we think is responsible for activating the immobiliser?? and wonder if there is a compatibility issue with the ECU.
We did have to constantly push the unlock button on the remote, as the light kept flashing on the dash. We'd push it, the light would go out (with a clicking sound) and we could start the car. The car would stop like it had been turned off, then shortly after, the dash would start flashing again, even though the keys were still in the ignition.
We've no experience with security systems, and no owners' handbook, so don't know if the light on the dash should be coming on again.
Sparkyjohn did point out that the CCU and ECU would need to be configured if they wern't from the same car, is this the most likely problem? I sort of thought that you could'nt even turn the car on if the immobiliser activated, but we get a full dash of lights, glow plugs go out, car starts up and just ABS and doors lights stay on,- car runs great then stops like it has been turned off - always after same amount of time.
We do have the CCU from the diesel car, but didn't put it in, as we thought we would have problems with the keys for the door and ignition! How do you get the 'plip' thingy to be recognized by the diesel CCU? The plips and ignition are for the petrol engine.
All this security stuff is probably great, but it is very confusing!!!!!
If we can't get past this problem, it will be off to the wise men with computers to see what they can do, but it would be great to solve the problem if possible.
Any suggestions?????????

hi i am still awaiting some parts for mine, but may be able to help you'

as i will be using a rover car ecu i will need mine recoding by the T4 men but if you have the full works, change the inner working to, the inner control unit still thinks its the petrol engine so wont start it/ or will let it run for around a min before remembering what its supposed to do. it is linked to the petrol ecu.

if they didnt it would be easy to nick one.

before you pay any £ out. this is all the info i have gathered in my search.

hope this helps

dean

Thanks Dean
We are going to change the CCU on the weekend. We figured it was probably the problem, and are now certain of it. The CCU and ECU cannot communicate. It should have been changed in the first place, but we were worried about how the keys etc would work - forgetting that we did have the plip for the diesel engine, so there was no problem!!!
We feel sure that once we have changed the CCU, we will be alright. Keep your fingers crossed!!
I hate winter - it is dark so early that there is no time after work to get out there and do it - we just want to get it all finished, but have to wait till the weekend.
The Landrover people we have been talking to are surprised that we are changing the petrol engine over to diesel - haven't heard of anyone having a go at it before, so we are apparently 'trailblazing' in this here in Australia at least. So far (touch wood) it has all gone smoothly. We did anticipate problems with the security side of things, because we have no experience with it at all. Not sure I like the idea of a car that toots at me when I lock it, but will have to get used to it I suppose.
Wish us luck for the weekend!!!!!Thanks for your input.

hi

it should be plain sailing if you have the ecu,ccu and fob as it is already coded, all you have done is changed the body of your freelander really. so good luck but you wont need it.

wish mine was as easy lol been waiting since march for the parts to finish it lol.

if i dont get them buy the end of this month i might strip it and sell the parts lol

Yay!
Now that the CCU and the ECU are talking to each other, the immobiliser no longer shuts down the engine, and she goes like a beauty!!
Have been up and down the road a few times, and although the car doesn't drive like our Disco, it feels good. The engine although not as responsive as the disco diesel (which isn't fantasically responsive), will be great once we have got used to it. Luckily we're not sporty drivers anyway. We live 100klm from Brisbane, and most of the drives we do are long, sitting in 5th on the highway till we reach the metropolis.
I guess the fun starts now -and this forum should be most helpful with all the little glitches that we may face in the next few months. The VC is free, and the IRD has fresh oil and some additive in it. Forewarned is forearmed, so we'll keep a regular eye on these things.
The ABS light goes out at the appropriate time now, although we cannot be sure the ABS is programmed into the computer. For now there are no lights staying on when the car is started, so hopefully there is nothing major to be concerned with for now.
Can't get the radio code in yet as the word 'CODE' is not showing on the display. will have to research that one.
Our thoughts are with you Dean - how frustrating waiting for parts! This project has seemed an eternity to us, but it has only been 6 weeks or thereabouts. To be hanging out since March must be really frustrating. We wish you luck!!!!!!!!!!!
Will put a pic of the little car up soon - it is quite cute with it's body kit.Summer should be fun with the sunroofs and back off - so long as it is still running then!!!!!!!!!!!!!

good on you!