Sealant

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R

Richard

Guest
When the manuals talk about using sealant in place of gaskets when
re-fitting my diff, do they mean anything specific or what?

TIA

Richard

--
Real email address is RJSavage at BIGFOOT dot COM

The information contained in this post
may not be published in, or used by

http://www.diyprojects.info
 
So Richard was, like

> When the manuals talk about using sealant in place of gaskets when
> re-fitting my diff, do they mean anything specific or what?
>
> TIA
>
> Richard

Something like Hylomar Blue, I would guess. NOT bathroom sealant from B&Q.

--

Rich

Pas d'elle yeux Rhone que nous


 


Richard Brookman wrote:

>Something like Hylomar Blue, I would guess. NOT bathroom sealant from B&Q.
>
>
>
Ta.

Funnily enough tho' bathroom sealant, if allowed min 24 hours to cure,
does work on bike exhausts!

Richard

--
Real email address is RJSavage at BIGFOOT dot COM

The information contained in this post
may not be published in, or used by

http://www.diyprojects.info
 
........ NOT bathroom sealant from B&Q.
>
That didnt stop the last owner of my new engine using it on the sump!!


 
Pacman wrote:
> ....... NOT bathroom sealant from B&Q.
>>
> That didnt stop the last owner of my new engine using it on the sump!!

Years ago there used to be a sealant called RTV. It looked very similar to silicone sealant & can be
often mistaken for it. BL cars used it for sealing EVERYTHING. I seem to remember it was quite effective
& probably was an adapted version of silicon sealer!

Nige

--
Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

"If you tolerate this then your children will be next"


 
On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:04:34 -0000, Pacman wrote:

>> ........ NOT bathroom sealant from B&Q.
>
> That didnt stop the last owner of my new engine using it on the
> sump!!

You can get high temperature silicone sealants and when push to come
to shove the ordinary stuff of decent quality will probably work and
survive. The biggest problem may come from the Acetic Acid that is
generated as it cures...

--
Cheers [email protected]
Dave. pam is missing e-mail



 
Mr.Nice. wrote:
> On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:10:19 -0000, "Nige"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Pacman wrote:
>>> ....... NOT bathroom sealant from B&Q.
>>>>
>>> That didnt stop the last owner of my new engine using it on the
>>> sump!!
>>
>> Years ago there used to be a sealant called RTV. It looked very
>> similar to silicone sealant & can be often mistaken for it. BL cars
>> used it for sealing EVERYTHING. I seem to remember it was quite
>> effective & probably was an adapted version of silicon sealer!
>
> The guy who recently did my timing belt and water pump used some kind
> of silicone type sealent instead of gaskets.
>
>
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

On the old BL cars they used it to replace gaskets. They leaked so bad it worked miles better. Just make
sure the faces are very clean & oil free.

Nige

--
Subaru WRX (The Bitch)

Series 3 Landrover 88" (Albert)

"If you tolerate this then your children will be next"


 
>
> Years ago there used to be a sealant called RTV. It looked very similar to
silicone sealant & can be
> often mistaken for it.
>
That's because it is it!

RTV simply stands for Room Temperature Vulcanising, and is the form of
silicone sealant generally used for automotive work.


 


SimonJ wrote:

>That's because it is it!
>
>RTV simply stands for Room Temperature Vulcanising, and is the form of
>silicone sealant generally used for automotive work.
>
>
>
>
OK, so do I pop into Buy + Queue and choose ANY bathroom sealant -
giving proper consideration to which colour will look best with the
overall undervehicle colour scheme - and slap it on the diff/axle mating
surfaces and bolt it all up?

I do have the proper seals on order but I wan't to do this job only once!

Richard

--
Real email address is RJSavage at BIGFOOT dot COM

The information contained in this post
may not be published in, or used by

http://www.diyprojects.info
 
The sump on our Discovery has no gasket but only RTV sealant. Its formed
slightly differant to sump on our V8 90 in that its not flat on the mating
surface so a cork gasket wont work. Ours is 1995, dunno if they are still
the same
Richard

"SimonJ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
>> Years ago there used to be a sealant called RTV. It looked very similar
>> to
> silicone sealant & can be
>> often mistaken for it.
>>
> That's because it is it!
>
> RTV simply stands for Room Temperature Vulcanising, and is the form of
> silicone sealant generally used for automotive work.
>
>


 
> OK, so do I pop into Buy + Queue and choose ANY bathroom sealant -
> giving proper consideration to which colour will look best with the
> overall undervehicle colour scheme - and slap it on the diff/axle mating
> surfaces and bolt it all up?
>
> I do have the proper seals on order but I wan't to do this job only once!
>
Any automotive silicone sealant should work fine.
Make sure the faces are spotlessly clean, dry and free of oil/grease
residue.


 
>>That's because it is it!
>>
>>RTV simply stands for Room Temperature Vulcanising, and is the form of
>>silicone sealant generally used for automotive work.
>>

>OK, so do I pop into Buy + Queue and choose ANY bathroom sealant -
>giving proper consideration to which colour will look best with the
>overall undervehicle colour scheme - and slap it on the diff/axle mating
>surfaces and bolt it all up?
>
>I do have the proper seals on order but I wan't to do this job only once!
>

Pop into Halfords and get a tube or two of Hermatite Golden.

Alex
 
Dave Liquorice wrote:

> On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 10:04:34 -0000, Pacman wrote:
>
>>> ........ NOT bathroom sealant from B&Q.
>>
>> That didnt stop the last owner of my new engine using it on the
>> sump!!
>
> You can get high temperature silicone sealants and when push to come
> to shove the ordinary stuff of decent quality will probably work and
> survive. The biggest problem may come from the Acetic Acid that is
> generated as it cures...
>

Had a Vauxhall HC Viva a long while ago that we got cheap because it
wouldn't go. Turned out that the muppet who had overhauled the carb
previously had resealed it with non-setting Mastic sealer whihc is
apparently quite soluble in petrol.

Cue me sitting there with a can of Buffsol thinners blowing through the
entire carb for days to get the damn thing clear of the gunk that had built
up everywhere.

Went like a charm afterwards.

P.
 

"Richard Brookman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So Richard was, like
>
>> When the manuals talk about using sealant in place of gaskets when
>> re-fitting my diff, do they mean anything specific or what?
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Richard
>
> Something like Hylomar Blue, I would guess. NOT bathroom sealant from
> B&Q.
>

Sealants have become quite sophisticated and specialised. It could be that a
specific type is needed for specific uses. Loctite do a huge range and are
recommended by many manufacturers. Be careful to choose the correct product.
This may not be so critical on a rear diff but could well be for work that
requires a lot of labour. I have seen many repairs spoilt because of oil
leaks caused by incorrect choice and use of sealants. Used correctly they
are superior to fibre gaskets.

Huw



 
Dave Liquorice wrote:

> You can get high temperature silicone sealants and when push to come
> to shove the ordinary stuff of decent quality will probably work and
> survive. The biggest problem may come from the Acetic Acid that is
> generated as it cures...

That's why they also make neutral cure silicone sealants. I'd just use
an ordinary automotive silicone sealant to seal a diff head.



--
EMB
 
> When the manuals talk about using sealant in place of gaskets when
> re-fitting my diff, do they mean anything specific or what?

Yet again we're getting ourselves all in a stew about nothing.

This particular joint is nothing special. No reason to change from what
has worked for years - a gasket (07316) used with either grease or a
non-setting sealant (Hylomar Blue has been suggested and does an
excellent job). This combination is easily dismantled should the future
need arise.

If you decide to do away with the gasket and rely on a sealant alone
degreasing is important.

Hylomar Blue/Hylomar Aerograde will do the job.

Silicone (RTV) sealants, again, will do but an oil-tolerant example is
required (this rules out most of the bathroom sealants). A neutral cure
version is unnecessary - unless your diff. is full of electronic
devices! Hermetite Instant Gasket meets this requirement as do several
Loctite products.

There are some other gasket replacement products which will also do e.g.
Loctite grades 518, 510, 574, 5203.

Avoid any hard setting 'sealant' unless you can be certain that that it
will not be you that has to dismantle the joint in future!

Why make things difficult? K.I.S.S. - Keep it simple ......


 
> When the manuals talk about using sealant in place of gaskets when
> re-fitting my diff, do they mean anything specific or what?

Yet again we're getting ourselves all in a stew about nothing.

This particular joint is nothing special. No reason to change from what
has worked for years - a gasket (07316) used with either grease or a
non-setting sealant (Hylomar Blue has been suggested and does an
excellent job). This combination is easily dismantled should the future
need arise.

If you decide to do away with the gasket and rely on a sealant alone
degreasing is important.

Hylomar Blue/Hylomar Aerograde will do the job.

Silicone (RTV) sealants, again, will do but an oil-tolerant example is
required (this rules out most of the bathroom sealants). A neutral cure
version is unnecessary - unless your diff. is full of electronic
devices! Hermetite Instant Gasket meets this requirement as do several
Loctite products.

There are some other gasket replacement products which will also do e.g.
Loctite grades 518, 510, 574, 5203.

Avoid any hard setting 'sealant' unless you can be certain that that it
will not be you that has to dismantle the joint in future!

Why make things difficult? K.I.S.S. - Keep it simple ......




 

"Pacman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> ....... NOT bathroom sealant from B&Q.
> >
> That didnt stop the last owner of my new engine using it on the sump!!
>
>

Why not Hylomar? I thought that was the sealant of choice on a LR.


 
On Sunday, in article
<[email protected]>
[email protected] "Richard" wrote:

> SimonJ wrote:
>
> >That's because it is it!
> >
> >RTV simply stands for Room Temperature Vulcanising, and is the form of
> >silicone sealant generally used for automotive work.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> OK, so do I pop into Buy + Queue and choose ANY bathroom sealant -
> giving proper consideration to which colour will look best with the
> overall undervehicle colour scheme - and slap it on the diff/axle mating
> surfaces and bolt it all up?
>
> I do have the proper seals on order but I wan't to do this job only once!

There are proper automotie sealants which will do a better job. And
I've made my own gaskets from gasket paper before now. If you have the
proper seals on order, the only reason to mess about is that you need
the vehicle _now_.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

Wrought under license granted by Her Majesty's Apostropher Royal AD MMIV
 
Dougal wrote:
>> When the manuals talk about using sealant in place of gaskets when
>> re-fitting my diff, do they mean anything specific or what?
>
>
> Yet again we're getting ourselves all in a stew about nothing.
>
> This particular joint is nothing special. No reason to change from what
> has worked for years - a gasket (07316) used with either grease or a
> non-setting sealant (Hylomar Blue has been suggested and does an
> excellent job). This combination is easily dismantled should the future
> need arise.
>
> If you decide to do away with the gasket and rely on a sealant alone
> degreasing is important.
>
> Hylomar Blue/Hylomar Aerograde will do the job.
>
> Silicone (RTV) sealants, again, will do but an oil-tolerant example is
> required (this rules out most of the bathroom sealants). A neutral cure
> version is unnecessary - unless your diff. is full of electronic
> devices! Hermetite Instant Gasket meets this requirement as do several
> Loctite products.
>
> There are some other gasket replacement products which will also do e.g.
> Loctite grades 518, 510, 574, 5203.
>
> Avoid any hard setting 'sealant' unless you can be certain that that it
> will not be you that has to dismantle the joint in future!
>
> Why make things difficult? K.I.S.S. - Keep it simple ......
>
>
Thanks Dougal,

You know what happens - you ask what you think is a simple question and
out pops all manner of answers. It is nevertheless enjoyable seeing
everyone chewing away at a question that has no dangerous answers,
really just one aspect of why we can ask daft questions of this NG -
there will always someone ready to give an appropriately weighted and
judged answer, even if we do end up at the starting point - my paper
gaskets in this instance - but it has been pleasant getting there and,
you never know, I might have learnt something in the meantime. I asked
the question in case things had moved on since Rover wrote the manual
and created the paper gaskets.

Rgds Richard
--
Real email address is RJSavage at BIGFOOT dot COM

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may not be published in, or used by

http://www.diyprojects.info
 
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