Sandy Landy will be rebuilt, just to make her new again.

We painted a few bits, the windscreen frame and hinges were sanded and professionally repainted, I repainted the rad frame, battery box cover and some other parts.

The rad was in fair shape, but I prefer better. Since the rad here would cost an arm, a leg and your first born, I had it re-cored with a 4 core replacement. Since the 300TDI's run relatively well and within their temp ranges, I dont think I needed a bigger upgrade than that. I will run a low profile electric extracting fan as well.

The guy here who does the re-coring of rads did a few for defenders already and they work well.

Decided to pull the power plant, had it out within 2 and a half hours...it came out trouble free. I was happy to see no signs of rust anywhere on the firewall, engine bay or chassis..none.

The clutch and pressure plate, bearings etc., were changed a not too long ago but I will refit all with OEM parts.

I will tear down the engine this week. It was not burning oil nor showed any other signs of wear as yet, but at 230,000 KM I rather not wait.

Next week I will pull down the gear box, pressure wash it, change the seal between the transfer case and the gear box. Will do all I can to it to make it better and last.

Brake booster and the other bits will be removed for the engine bay to be sanded down and resprayed to match the landys outer color.

Now who left the friggin clutch slave hanging like that???

Sorm boordy goona get hurt real bad, sorm boordy!!! :boxing:

Mates, I pulled the gearbox out yesterday, all looks OK.

I will change all of the seals, external bearings and U-Joints, anything else recommended? I will pressure wash the gearbox and flush out the oil sumps.

Like everyone else, I would like to install a clutch which will have some longevity to it, what would you recommend?

I have heard that some guys used the 130 clutch plate on the 110's any of you guys did this?
Looks like the BP clutch fork was installed by the previous owner. I guess the clutch slave plunger point is what fails on these..might need to weld a grade 8 washer in there.

You guys have any other tips on stuff I should do while this is out and before re installation?

Cheers Mates.

Afaik, a 130 or hd clutch may leave you shaking at the lights.

mick the builder said:

Afaik, a 130 or hd clutch may leave you shaking at the lights.

Click to expand...

I have to pull off the one currently on the engine Mick to see what it is. Why the shaking issue, unbalanced, heavy, what's the reason?

Cheers.

I know it's a wild shot, but what's the average day to day driving life expectancy of a clutch?I know carrying loads and driving style dictates this, but average mileage you get from a stock OEM clutch and that of an HD clutch.

Thanks.

130 Clutch kit reference
Land Rover Defender Clutch Parts | 130 300 tdi | Paddock

HID thread
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/hids-defender-283915.html


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Barbados said:

I have to pull off the one currently on the engine Mick to see what it is. Why the shaking issue, unbalanced, heavy, what's the reason?

Cheers.

Click to expand...

Fewer springs on clutch plate = more vibration.
Im sure somebody will explain this more technically
Have a search, this was brought up before, by me i think

mick the builder said:

Fewer springs on clutch plate = more vibration.
Im sure somebody will explain this more technically
Have a search, this was brought up before, by me i think

Click to expand...

But that's the opposite to what the 130 kit consists of I think. I thought the 110 stock clutch disk has 6 springs as opposed to 8 on the 130 and in theory, I would expect that the more springs the more dampening there is...thus less vibration.

The best thing to do and JM sent part numbers is using an HD clutch which might have more clamping force and an 130 clutch disk or friction disk as you Brits call it

If I was in Canada I would have had my clutch guys cut me a ceramic clutch disk, they used to do wonders on clutch kits for my shop.

Barbados said:

The best thing to do and JM sent part numbers is using an HD clutch which might have more clamping force and an 130 clutch disk or friction disk as you Brits call it

If I was in Canada I would have had my clutch guys cut me a ceramic clutch disk, they used to do wonders on clutch kits for my shop.

Click to expand...

A quote from the legend that is, JM." h/d cutches will give you gear box knock at idle,and too much shock than it needs for long life"

mick the builder said:

A quote from the legend that is, JM." h/d cutches will give you gear box knock at idle,and too much shock than it needs for long life"

Click to expand...

Hmmm, wonder what knock there is at idle, interesting, I will ask him about it along with an explanation. The rotational mass should be the same and with extra springs on the clutch disk and more pressure fingers on the clutch, I would have thought that it would be smoother.

The 130 friction disk is also smaller than that of the 110.

Will find out and post findings here.

Cheers Mick.

Its more to do with the torsional impulses from the crank (as a result of the firing impulses), it will mean that the gearbox input shaft is subject to multiple pulses as it rotates that will effectively cause the gears to 'rattle' on their shafts. The springs in the clutch plate effectively help to dampen the vibration out, think of it as a cheap/simple dual mass flywheel type of effect. HD springs just mean that more crank vibration passes to the gearbox to rattle the gears.

Kwakerman said:

Its more to do with the torsional impulses from the crank (as a result of the firing impulses), it will mean that the gearbox input shaft is subject to multiple pulses as it rotates that will effectively cause the gears to 'rattle' on their shafts. The springs in the clutch plate effectively help to dampen the vibration out, think of it as a cheap/simple dual mass flywheel type of effect. HD springs just mean that more crank vibration passes to the gearbox to rattle the gears.

Click to expand...

Ahh got it Kwakerman, all the wile I was wondering how the vibration could have been caused by the clutch assembly as that's the way it seemed.

So essentially it's the HD clutch assembly allowing more of the crank impulse firing vibration, to be directed and transferred to the gearbox main shaft because of the rigidity of the HD clutch assembly.

Thanks for the clarification Kwakerman.

Kwakerman, since we are on the subject and you mentioned that the 300tdi on a Landy and dual mass flywheels, have you know of anyone who had their flywheel lightened? IIRC, it's the TD5 which has the dual mass flywheel.

I know the heavier the flywheel is, the better it maintains momentum but I would prefer acceleration I will pull apart my clutch assembly to take a look and will weigh the flywheel.

Cheers.

Barbados said:

Kwakerman, since we are on the subject and you mentioned that the 300tdi on a Landy and dual mass flywheels, have you know of anyone who had their flywheel lightened? IIRC, it's the TD5 which has the dual mass flywheel.

I know the heavier the flywheel is, the better it maintains momentum but I would prefer acceleration I will pull apart my clutch assembly to take a look and will weigh the flywheel.

Cheers.

Click to expand...

As you will be aware the 300 is a solid flywheel, the DMF reference was just as an example, and yes TD5 has a DMF. Don't know anyone who has lightened theirs but not sure how much of a difference it would make. If you lightened it you would only be shaving a couple of % off the total drive train inertia as you still need to spin up two gearboxes, 2 props, 2 diffs and four 1/2 shafts. Think I would be tempted to leave as-is as the extra mass of the flywheel will probably help with clutch plate heat dissipation.

Kwakerman said:

As you will be aware the 300 is a solid flywheel, the DMF reference was just as an example, and yes TD5 has a DMF. Don't know anyone who has lightened theirs but not sure how much of a difference it would make. If you lightened it you would only be shaving a couple of % off the total drive train inertia as you still need to spin up two gearboxes, 2 props, 2 diffs and four 1/2 shafts. Think I would be tempted to leave as-is as the extra mass of the flywheel will probably help with clutch plate heat dissipation.

Click to expand...

Yup I know that it has a single mass flywheel and it's only those which will allow lightening. Makes absolute sense..l I have to remember that I have two gearboxes within all the other drive train parts to it. I am stuck thinking in BMW and other Euro performance car mode, need to snap out of that

Thanks Kwakerman, you are a great mate.

Just pulled off my clutch assemble.

Looks like its an AP (Former Borg and Beck) clutch and a friction disk from a 130.

The clutch fork looks like its the HD one as well. I have not really driven this Landy, brought it home from the seller and drove it around the block and started stripping it.

I have had it idling a few times and cant remember hearing the knocking but wont doubt you guys based on your experience.

I am happy to say that the pilot shaft has zero play and feels smooth.

The clutch assembly is in very good condition, not used much, might just swap out the friction disk for a new one.

The flywheel is in perfect condition, no scoring and no ridge at all.

Is it supposed to be flat? I am guessing so. The BMW ones normally have a slight step between the bolting area and the surface where the disk lining sits on.

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