sand blasting.

Grit Valve said:

If it's used with water pointless on steel as it will immediately rust.

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you can get additives

Grit valve, Any opinions on the two I have linked in previous post.

wickford90 said:

What would work best so i can do it in my workshop.Not a vast difference in price and there unit is on the farm here, so might be able to do a deal.
SAND BLAST CABINET SANDBLASTING TANK SANDBLASTER POT CJAUTOS SB10 | eBay

BRAND NEW SAND BLASTER BENCH SAND BLASTING CABINET. | eBay

If anyone knows a link to MHM sand blast cabinet thread. All searchs in vain

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want my honest opinion neither well maybe the cabnet but you restricted to size . The pot well again its only fine media you find it slow .

If your going to do it with results then you need this !
Differnt size media better pressures and grit control , your never get in all those nooks and crannys with the above pot if you can't control the media your use for instance, a very week blast to get in corners otherwise your blasting grit on top of grit and getting nowhere.

This is a proper pot all others are mere toys.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=111196687146

jamesmartin said:

you can get additives

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Won't stop instance rust Steel x water x air = rust

Grit Valve said:

Won't stop instance rust Steel x water x air = rust

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they do in wet blast cabinets

jamesmartin said:

they do in wet blast cabinets

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Wet blasting James is for less aggressive blasting on alloys , brass copper ect James in conjunction with fine glass bead .

Or in circumstances where dust must be reduced .

Other than that not normally on steel its defeating the object .

Grit Valve said:

Wet blasting James is for less aggressive blasting on alloys , brass copper ect James in conjunction with fine glass bead .

Or in circumstances where dust must be reduced .

Other than that not normally on steel its defeating the object .

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works on steel well with correct additive in the water ,no rust

jamesmartin said:

works on steel well with correct additive in the water ,no rust

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Why would steel need to be done wet when it can be done dry then answer me that .

Grit Valve said:

want my honest opinion neither well maybe the cabnet but you restricted to size . The pot well again its only fine media you find it slow .

If your going to do it with results then you need this !
Differnt size media better pressures and grit control , your never get in all those nooks and crannys with the above pot if you can't control the media your use for instance, a very week blast to get in corners otherwise your blasting grit on top of grit and getting nowhere.

This is a proper pot all others are mere toys.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=111196687146

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Thanks, maybe better just to take it somewhere to get done.

wickford90 said:

Thanks, maybe better just to take it somewhere to get done.

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If its a one off then yes but if you doing it as a hobby on just flat pannel with out intricate corners holes ect then it would be fine but these units are really made for small parts ect like a brake drum outer for instance but panels that need a spread of grit there not much good and can direct to muck heat in a concentrated spot and on thin panels this is not good.

Grit Valve said:

Why would steel need to be done wet when it can be done dry then answer me that .

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easier better results with heated water on dirty engine or axle parts etc

jamesmartin said:

easier better results with heated water on dirty engine or axle parts etc

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Then you should be using plastic dry stripping that does not change , alter the profile on the metal. Glass is round beads that close and trap dirt in as it pounds the metal. To do it prioerly you would plastic dry strip.

Them mask sensitive areas grit metal to open up the paws in microscopic terms to get the dirt and impurity out allow a profile for painting same with alloy but then you would seal the alloy in microscopic term by pounding the open paws with glass bead with water will give that bit more of a sheen

Nit how you suggest

Grit Valve said:

Then you should be using plastic dry stripping that does not change , alter the profile on the metal. Glass is round beads that close and trap dirt in as it pounds the metal. To do it prioerly you would plastic dry strip.

Them mask sensitive areas grit metal to open up the paws in microscopic terms to get the dirt and impurity out allow a profile for painting same with alloy but then you would seal the alloy in microscopic term by pounding the open paws with glass bead with water give thar but more of a sheen

Nit how you suggest

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yes like anyones going to spend 3 hours on a £10 part,they were done properly and no rust,at the time better than any other reconditioner

jamesmartin said:

yes like anyones going to spend 3 hours on a £10 part,they were done properly at the time better than any other reconditioner

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Lamboginis Ferrari Aston Martin
Porsche and many other rare cars don't cost £10

If the parts small enough I could do it for less than)10
Sandblasting is based in time if I can do it quicker than your cabinet who would be charging more .

Grit Valve said:

Lamboginis Ferrari Aston Martin
Porsche and many other rare cars don't cost £10

If the parts small enough I could do it for less than)10
Sandblasting is based in time if I can do it quicker than your cabinet who would be charging more .

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i doubt you could be quicker that whats in effect rinsing all parts without cleaning first ,especially when finish is more thans needed

jamesmartin said:

i doubt you could be quicker that whats in effect rinsing all parts without cleaning first ,especially when finish is more thans needed

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James the only finish possible on steel is paint or it will rust its that simple , unless your doing internal parts then yes but otherwise you don't rinse steel .

Apart from cast iron you wet with water after blasting and reblast do this several time and you will get the deep salt content out ready for painting or blacking ect

Otherwise water and steel just don't mix

Grit Valve said:

James the only finish possible on steel is paint or it will rust its that simple , unless your doing internal parts then yes but otherwise you don't rinse steel .

Apart from cast iron you wet with water after blasting and reblast do this several time and you will get the deep salt content out ready for painting or blacking ect

Otherwise water and steel just don't mix

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obviously both internal and external ,and obviously bare steel wll rust eventually but not due to wet blasting ,whats the point faffing about when one machine method works perfectly well

jamesmartin said:

obviously both internal and external ,and obviously bare steel wll rust eventually but not due to wet blasting ,whats the point faffing about when one machine method works perfectly well

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Not if you coat it with phosphate we have steel cars that have been blasted and are sitting about for weeks under cover and be left and will not go rusty unless water is spilt on it but moisture in the air can not penetrate the steel un like untreated steel that will turn by the next day and show forms of surface rust

We have several blast rooms and cabinets for certain metals conditions not one for all .