Salisbury differential rebuild - help

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Talkingwhippet

New Member
Posts
4
Location
South Somerset
Hi all,
rebuilding the Salisbury differential for my '96 110 hardtop 300TDi. The truck's mileage is 232,000. It's done a fair amount of towing in its earlier life but very little off-roading.

Is it worth replacing the planet gears and cross-piece in the diff itself? I'm replacing the bearings and was planning to do all the thrust washers anyway. I don't know how long-lived the planet gears are and if worth replacing given the unknown quality of pattern parts as cannot afford genuine LR items. I might just reassemble the whole thing with new half-shafts/driving flanges and see what backlash I've got then, but wondered what people's thoughts were in meantime.

The reason I'm doing this is the outer pinion bearing broke up - I guess because PO tried doing the oil seal and did not get the preset ok again - there was plenty of oil in good condition in it. This is a new truck to me.

Many thanks, David
 
Fair enough!
I guess I don't know how worn they are - definitely not damaged in any way.
I'll put it all back together then and see how it goes I think - at least I know I can take it all apart again if needed in the future.
Thanks for the input - much appreciated.
 
I'm interested in how you get on. My 110 has a clunk at the rear. I'm hoping it's the axle ball joint, but I have a horrible feeling it may be slack in the axle or the centre diff. I have rebuilt a few car axles and both Rover diffs in my 90, but the lack of info on the net on Salisbury axles is making me apprehensive.
 
kes86 said:
I'm interested in how you get on. My 110 has a clunk at the rear. I'm hoping it's the axle ball joint, but I have a horrible feeling it may be slack in the axle or the centre diff. I have rebuilt a few car axles and both Rover diffs in my 90, but the lack of info on the net on Salisbury axles is making me apprehensive.
Click to expand...

Been away for a while but just putting things back together again now. Have just tried setting the pinion bearing preload and I think I've really misunderstood something - not the first time! I've tightened the flange nut to 250 ft lbs and then was expecting to just tighten it a bit more after that to get the much smaller torque for turning resistance on the flange which indicates the bearing preload is ok. I read somewhere it takes 250 ft lbs to even start crushing the tube. Of course, what's happened is that everything is just really ****in tight!

Should I instead have tightened the flange nut until slack starts to disappear and then go easy to get the turning resistance in ft inches that marks the pre-load? I'm assuming that point at which this starts can be way less than 250 ft lbs if you see what I mean? I've got spare tubes, seals etc., so planning to take it apart and start again. Just wanted someone to confirm actual procedure to set the preload for the pinion bearing. That would be great thanks.
 
Talkingwhippet said:
Been away for a while but just putting things back together again now. Have just tried setting the pinion bearing preload and I think I've really misunderstood something - not the first time! I've tightened the flange nut to 250 ft lbs and then was expecting to just tighten it a bit more after that to get the much smaller torque for turning resistance on the flange which indicates the bearing preload is ok. I read somewhere it takes 250 ft lbs to even start crushing the tube. Of course, what's happened is that everything is just really ****in tight!

Should I instead have tightened the flange nut until slack starts to disappear and then go easy to get the turning resistance in ft inches that marks the pre-load? I'm assuming that point at which this starts can be way less than 250 ft lbs if you see what I mean? I've got spare tubes, seals etc., so planning to take it apart and start again. Just wanted someone to confirm actual procedure to set the preload for the pinion bearing. That would be great thanks.
Click to expand...
why would you use a torque when your crushing a spacer you cant judge what torque is needed ,you remove free play then keep tightening a little then checking rolling resistance and repeating till correct
 
jamesmartin said:
why would you use a torque when your crushing a spacer you cant judge what torque is needed ,you remove free play then keep tightening a little then checking rolling resistance and repeating till correct
Click to expand...
Thanks - that's exactly what I needed confirming! Read so many posts now and got confused as never done this before.
 
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