S2a Chassis Repair

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Ruari

Ruari

Active Member
Posts
281
Location
North Ayrshire
Hi Guys

I am in the process of a re-build of a S2a.
Generally not to bad condition, but like all things it ain't all apparent - Yet:rolleyes:

The front bump stops are missing due to the amount of rot:eek: and previous patches. So I thought I'd get the replacment front sections from Paddocks. I'm guessing that's what a 'front chassis repair leg' is:confused:
If I do this, what happens regarding chassis number?
 
I woud guess it is that! I Built mine instead of buying panels so can't say if that is correct. I'd just call them and check.

It might also be worth checking the front cross member...no point in attaching new legs to someting that is dead.

No idea r.e the chassis number, I didn't know it had one there?
 
all early landrover have the chassie number stamped on the passanger side front leg but the chance of ever finding it is about 5% so i wouldnt worry about,
i have double plated all mine on the front so i wouldnt worry
 
the chassis number is stamped on drivers front leg as is on series, discos and defenders as well ,just re stamp no whgen new parts fitted ,part of the reason they where so easy to ring ,check repair members carefully as not always a good fit nowadays
 
Any tips on doing this repair.
I stripped off the body panels, I was going too...
Jack up chassis and support. Remove wheels, support chassis so load is just coming off the spring hangers, remove steering bars.
Is there anything else to look at or do differently prior to the grinder?
 
make sure you take detailed measurements and make note of them!!!!!! have a constant reference point on the ground to ensure you have it at the correct hight before welding (the same hight as it was with the old one)
 
Doing My Dumb Irons this weekend - I was going to make mine aswell, but I've run out of steel stock ATM - so splashed out and bought a pair from Fam Four.

If i'm telling you to suck eggs, i apologise, but here's my tuppence....

Take your time, and make sure you get the weld area SPOTLESS and check the area you intend to weld is good steel. Like Rusty and G-Man say - take your time, check and double check the reference positions you've made before welding or cutting anything.
Remember - your welding on a repair section for the front chassis that includes new spring hangers - check twice, cut once ;)

Put some .8 wire in yer MIG, and knock up the dial to get a good, solid weld.
 
G-man said:
make sure you take detailed measurements and make note of them!!!!!! have a constant reference point on the ground to ensure you have it at the correct hight before welding (the same hight as it was with the old one)
Click to expand...
assuming its still in its original position!

not sure if i misread summat, but you mentioned rusty bump stops then went on to say your gonna replace the front bits with new dumb irons.
the replacements only go as far as the front cross member, not all the way to the bump stop mounting.
dunno if that was your intention, but its how i read it.
 
nrgserv said:
assuming its still in its original position!

not sure if i misread summat, but you mentioned rusty bump stops then went on to say your gonna replace the front bits with new dumb irons.
the replacements only go as far as the front cross member, not all the way to the bump stop mounting.
dunno if that was your intention, but its how i read it.
Click to expand...

true but at least yuo won't make it any worse by having it in the same place
 
Bump stops!
all ways look underneath the buggers.
my chum says "ooh look, that is so solid" i said " pass that hammer and i'll show thee.
nearly always rotten underneath them.
 
dirtyrhino said:
LOLZ

Tonight i'm halfway through a huge lasagne and half a garlic bread, yesterday I was cooking and gorging on burritos - think i'd better move my surfing habits to before or after dinner :D

Not that I make much more sense, but i do read things a little closer :doh:
Click to expand...

don't talk about food i'm starvin! a boul of soup and a little bit of haddock is all i have had today :(
 
Cheers for info - Battery disconnect Oh Yea.

Bump stops have holes instead.
O/S front dumbiron has holes
n/s been patched up, but with splatter welds. Doudbt it if there is any penetration.

I got a fellow Series owner / restourer coming to assist and weild the mig gear.

Off on honeymoon first, (bloody inconsiderate) , and then on with job.:cool:
 
I meant tae say,
replacement dumb irons from paddocks, the bumper holes aren't sleaved. Does anyone know a supplier who does selaved sections, otherwise I shall make the mod, my self.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Disco 1 Disco 1 Rust repair prep
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
sv_dOnut
S
K
What money should I be asking?
2
Replies
27
Views
4K
Karls
K
Goc3k
Discovery 1 SOLD 1997 300TDI manual D1, Winchester
Replies
16
Views
4K
Goc3k
Goc3k
Dan_J
Beyond repair?
Replies
15
Views
2K
rob1miles
R
Jon308
6x6 Range rover/double cab defender build
Replies
3
Views
2K
hef19898
hef19898
Back
Top