Rust protection durability

Can anyone say how long a chassis etc should stay relatively rust free and structually sound after a professional rust treatment has been applied?

(my new 110 is due to be done this week at Rust Master in Hatfield - will report back on quality of work/coverage etc later...)


Also, how often would this work need to be re-done from scratch?
or would it be a case of diy top-ups as and when?

:rolly:

Murfie said:

Can anyone say how long a chassis etc should stay relatively rust free and structually sound after a professional rust treatment has been applied?

Click to expand...

no, but am sure plenty will have a guess

Too many factors in that equation to make an educated guess! Just keep it topped up (inside and out) with waxoyl or similar.

Kind of agree!!!
Has anyone had this work done recently and if so, what did you think of the work & durability? (simply- would you pay to have it done on your next defender?)

Had it done recently it's a must in this weather as I live in one of the wettest counties in uk
it comes off the polly bushes but that's no prob.

Thanks jrmroxx,
Did you have the work done professionally or did you DIY it?

My thinking is- get it done by a specialist, who could do a more thorough coverage than I could DIY ing it- then review as and when it starts looking a bit tired...!

Kind of settled on Rust Master in the end as they seam to get fairly positive feed back & have said I can watch the entire process from start to finish -a huge plus in my book.

Intend to share results with forum as to how good/bad the experience/quality of work is once completed, if only to help people like myself who are unsure whether to 'go for it or not'.

If using waxoyl, ankor wax or similar well worth topping up each year - makign sure to do inside the box sections as well as what you can see

How long will it protect for without problems - honestly no idea, but has to be better than doing nothing at all

Murfie said:

Thanks jrmroxx,
Did you have the work done professionally or did you DIY it?

My thinking is- get it done by a specialist, who could do a more thorough coverage than I could DIY ing it- then review as and when it starts looking a bit tired...!

Click to expand...

I reckon a patient and thorough DIY job will get just as good coverage as a professional job (particularly on the outside of the chassis). In my experience, the inside of your chassis (particularly if your Defender is a few years old) will be filled with mud and general crap that is practically impossible to get out.

I try to keep my Defender's chassis as clean as possible, which includes sticking the lance of a pressure washer into any holes until the escaping water runs clear. I had presumed that this would be getting any mud out of my chassis and keeping it nice and clean - however when I had the crossmember replaced recently, the chassis rails had pretty substantial quantities of (now pretty wet) mud/sand/silt sitting in them. Pretty sure that no amount of pressure washing would actually have shifted this, as it was compacted. Unless you can get rid of this somehow, you run the risk of just covering it all with Waxoyl, which is probably not a great idea.

Re: Trapping stuff with with Waxoyl

True - can tend to trap moisture, That's why I used Ankor wax on mine - easier to spray and displaces moisture as it goes on

Iv given over with Waxoyl iv found the rust can get behind it then the process only speeds up. All my oil after oil changes gets mixed with Lith grease and daubed all over the underside regularly. For box sections i heat it or thin it a little and use a garden sprayer.

pie eater pete said:

Iv given over with Waxoyl iv found the rust can get behind it then the process only speeds up. All my oil after oil changes gets mixed with Lith grease and daubed all over the underside regularly. For box sections i heat it or thin it a little and use a garden sprayer.

Click to expand...

Don't know how much it really matters, but I've been told not to use old engine oil because various additives/contaminants make it acidic and it therefore eats the chassis. Suspect that there's an element of "it's bad for the environment" built into this claim though.

Id say its more likely be tossers concerned about the environment as theres an old fella near me drives round in an old Tr5 who swears by old engine oil. When i scraped off the old Waxoyl off mine you could see underneath it had rusted quicker.

Loads of guys swear by old engine oil sprayed on.

Only bad thing I've read about it is the problems it can cause bikers if it drips back onto the road

and it's carcinogenic

Sean said:

and it's carcinogenic

Click to expand...

most things are . so is tarmac

Fur Trapper said:

most things are . so is tarmac

Click to expand...

more yank horse crap

After buying my rusting 1998 defender in haste a few years back it took me about 5mins to decide the only sure way of keeping rust at bay on anything other than a new chassis is to go for galvanised, so that's what I did. Expensive but 6 years later I ain't seen anything to change my mind,

mark g said:

After buying my rusting 1998 defender in haste a few years back it took me about 5mins to decide the only sure way of keeping rust at bay on anything other than a new chassis is to go for galvanised, so that's what I did. Expensive but 6 years later I ain't seen anything to change my mind,

Click to expand...

Id love a Galv chassis but until pound coins start falling out me arse il have to put up covering it wi old 10w 40!

put wire brush to mine and scraped what i could off then using a compressor i blew excess off and then covered whole lot with liquid bitumem stippling it with brush then a few days later a covering with grease looks good but wiill have to wait and see how long it lasts

I use Angkor wax and so it myself applied via a spray gun using my air compressor. It's easy to apply and not very expensive plus it seems to do a great job. It takes half a day once a year.