runing out of options and money

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joem_2.5dse

New Member
Posts
25
Location
benenden, kent
right here goes, last month my water pump went which resulted i the rad exploding, so i replaced the rad, water pump, new thermostat, when i got it all back together again and running i noticed that every time i hit a hill the temp gauge went up to the red :eek: so i replaced the viscous fan thinking this was probaby the cause and its still doing it, so tonight did a compression leak test thinking the only thing it could be was the head gasket gone and its not that either, so im stuck, ive replaced the whole cooling system now and the head gasket hasnt got and signs of leaks so why is it overheating.........anyone with a half sencibe explinaion please help me, im stumped with this one, and this proess of ilimination is starting to get more and more expensive.

engine is a 2.5dse bmw 6cyl turbo...

hopefully someone might have an idea. thanks guys:)
 
Air in the system? did you make sure all the air was vented out when you put it all back and started it up, i take it you know how to do that
 
Air in the system? did you make sure all the air was vented out when you put it all back and started it up, i take it you know how to do that

i was told that the way to get the air out was to clear the pipe from the top of the rad to the expansion tank and it would sort itself from there....it not using any water atall :confused:
 
check the level has it gone down, i would take the cap off and run it, if there is air you will see it coming out the expansion tank as the engine gets hotter, and give the pipes a squeeze to help it along, have you got any antifreeze in it yet?
 
check the level has it gone down, i would take the cap off and run it, if there is air you will see it coming out the expansion tank as the engine gets hotter, and give the pipes a squeeze to help it along, have you got any antifreeze in it yet?

yeah its got 50% anti freeze in it, its been doing this for a month now i done nearly 2000 miles with it doing it, its not used a drop of water, the matrix is working cos i could cook a pig with the heat inside when its on full....its just really really cofused me, ive exhausted every possble reason for it dong it.....when i turn it off nd release the pressure from the expansin tank i can hearit bubbling around the block but never in the expansion tank :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
I'm clutching at straws here....do what i said and put the heating on full blast, over ride the auto, with the cap off, its possible it could be running around or at a dead end and expanding the wrong way!! i ant got a clue, but give that a bash, it sounds like you do have air though, you might have to drop a pipe and back fill it up with water, instead of filling it from the top
 
I'm clutching at straws here....do what i said and put the heating on full blast, over ride the auto, with the cap off, its possible it could be running around or at a dead end and expanding the wrong way!! i ant got a clue, but give that a bash, it sounds like you do have air though, you might have to drop a pipe and back fill it up with water, instead of filling it from the top

i never use the auto on the heater anyway. i will give it a try at work tomorow, one thing i have noticed is that the pipe to the right of the rad, which believe is flow from the water pump always appears to be slightly soft in comparison to the other one,dont know if this is normal just sems odd. thanks fo the help il let you knowwhat happens tomorow
 
Hi Joem

would agree with Dopey

silly point - you have checked the thermostat??? perhaps its only partly opening???

remove it and see if your getting the same Hot problems - if so them you might have your source

Cooller trails

Abe
 
hiya joe a quick check you can carry out mate, although you have said you made sure the bleed hose is clear from the top of the radiator to the header tank have you made sure that the nipples that the pipe goes on to are clear , you will find that these are very small bore and they block for fun mate , quick to check ,has to be worth a shot , i would also be tempted to go along with the termostat theory as well , athough it cant be fitted the wrong way round it could actually be slow to operate or not opening fully thus restricting the flow , hope this helps
rick.
 
What Rick says is true, just because its new don’t take it that its a good part, especially if its a Generic part, if you can (i know its a lot of ££ sometimes to do it) but try and always buy Genuine Landy parts, the quality control on them is so much more reliable
 
thanks for the help guys, i did test the new stat before i put it in and it was opening quicker then the old one, its also definatly gone back in the way the old one came out so that cant be the problem, i have checked the pip to the heder tank and the nipples its all clear and has good flow coming through it no spitting its just constant trickle, i spent about an hour toda at lunch much to the dissaproval of my boss trying to locate cold spots or air locks on any of the pipes. coulnt find any, it all heats up the same and it all appears normal till i hit a hill,

im really confused, there really is no explination???
 
Hi
Just a thought..... I changed the water pump on my P38 DSE and the pump was in bits and I know that some of it are still in the block as I got out all that I could but when I put parts of pump back together on floor there are bits missing. Maybe you have a bit caught in the pump.....

Craig
 
Hi
Just a thought..... I changed the water pump on my P38 DSE and the pump was in bits and I know that some of it are still in the block as I got out all that I could but when I put parts of pump back together on floor there are bits missing. Maybe you have a bit caught in the pump.....

Craig

this is what happened to mine, i was able to locate all the bits for my pump though, it has snpped off te shaft and into 2 pieces so was easy to get it out....
 
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