Runaways ...

How common on TD5's there seems to be a conflict - some sites say common others say not.

I ask because of the configuration and the habit the TD5 seems to have of filling the sump with diesel. Although I am under the impression that the later 2003 onward TD5's (of which mine is one) don't suffer this issue so much - true or false?

My induction system was full of oil too thanks to the turbo (I hope) which has now been replaced. There was no evidence of excess pressure in the crankcase unless the PCV isn't doing its job and the turbo was sucking it through of course - catch can needed perhaps.

So how common are runaways on TD5's is it something to worry about if maintenance is on the ball?

My 2003 with the 15P engine filled its sump with oil. Fortunately it didnt reach the runaway stage. The engine was replaced with the older 10P engine which has been running well since.

As the 10P is an older engine I would imagine there would be more occurances but as the 15P engine ages it will no doubt suffer as many failures.

Gaz

Did you get much warning with the 'over fill' do the injector seals etc go gradual or sudden?

I am getting the impression from various Google sources that the 15p engine cylinder heads aren't as prone to the cracking but there are numerous stories of injector seal failure.

I am wondering whether improper maintenance is also a playing a part, refacing TD5 cylinder heads is expressly forbidden by Landrover and yet many seem to do it. Whilst I'd be surprised if the safety margins were so tight the need for resurfacing would indicate distortion had occurred and perhaps invisible to the eye cracks. There seem also to be experiences with varying injector seal quality - a candidate for original equipment only this one I think.

Quite simply the TD5 engine does not like being over heated.
This leads to head warpage and hairline cracks in the head.

Injector seals are the same on all engines and so long as you take care to clean and seat them properly they will not usually give you any trouble. Use OEM and not pattern seals though. Make sure you recheck injector clamp torques after a few hundred miles as they do settle and can come loose.

Early 10p engines used plastic dowells to locate the head and these allowed the head to slip leading to head gasket failure. This lead to overheating and because the early heads had an internal fuel spill gallery which weakened the head this lead to cracks.

Later heads have an external fuel spill pipe and stronger casting webbs which reduce the instances of head failures due to cracking. Later engines also used steel locating dowells.

Diesel in the sump is easily spotted if you check your engine oil levels regularly.
I ran an engine for nearly two years with elevated sump levels due to fuel in the sump.
I just kept sucking the excess out of the dipstick tube once a week.
The engine eventually went bang when the oil pump sprocket came loose.
Nothing to do with the elevated engine oil levels.

Subsequent examination showed the bottom end was in perfect condition (still running strong in another engine) but the cam followers and injector lobes were shot with severe signs of wear due to the diluted oil. It was only a matter of time before they started clattering.

I'm just going through the same painful experience with mine now

Only had the car a month, and the ACE pump self destructed, had to replace 2 rear ACE pipes, turbo went, FPR, and then the dreaded sump filling itself with diesel. After trying the injector seals I've relented and bought a new AMC head and going to get a reputable garage to change it for me to preserve any warranty on the head, and do the big end and rings at the same time.

As has been said above by shifty, if you check the oil levels regularly you should be able to spot a rising level, plus the oil gets clearer and runnier instead of going brown and eventually black. Another symptom I had was oil/fuel mixture bubbling out of the dipstick base, presumably the high level getting agitated by the crank and sploshing around too much; and the crankcase pressure was higher than normal, it was "breathing" very heavy. The only other slight symptom, was it seemed a little clattery at idle (could be a psychological thing though as it was slight) and the fuel economy was down to around 18-19mpg.

Hope that helps, if in doubt keep checking those oil levels! I'll let you know what happens when mine gets fixed!

Might be pushing it a bit, but food for thought nonetheless: when the ACE pump pulley sheared off, it took the belt with it, and therefore knocked out the water pump, alternator, vac pump, steering etc. Was doing 60mph on a dual carriageway at the time and couldn't stop safely for about a minute. Therefore it did overheat slightly, wonder if it was that which caused the crack? Who knows... a question for trading standards to ask and the wretched dealer to answer I reckon!!

Very conscious of temperature on any engine with aluminium components, I have little faith in the in car gauge and am currently trying to source some nice sexy LED units from the USA - the days of 52mm round dials are over and that seems to be all the aftermarket in the UK can supply leastways for sensible money.

Careful with the crank etc and what your garage does. The cranks in TD5 engines should not be reground, heads similarly should not be skimmed though many do so.

TD5 engines rather unfortunately seem to be comprised of disposable/recyclable components rather than repairable ones - including the block.

I beg to differ.

The cranks can be reground same as any other crank. Its important to keep all the big end components together as they use fracture split journals and bearing caps. Oversize soft metal bearings are available. Companies that know what they are about also use induction hardening techniques on the reground cranks.

Piston liners can also be bored and honed but the limited availability and cost of over size pistons often makes this an expensive option. I've never heard of the piston liners being replaced as I believe the block is cast around the liner rather than them being press fitted as in a lot of engines. This eliminates instances of liners moving in the block. There was one company in Germany who advertised relining by means of press fitting a reducing liner inside the existing liner and using smaller pistons.

I have no personal experience of skimming the TD5 heads but know several people that have done so sucessfully. Its a common practice in African countries as replacement heads are not readily available.

No argument here.

Not doubting it all happens, the key phrase you used is 'know what they are about' - not many of those about. Even the blocks worst case could probably be sleeved, not happening in your average backyard engineers though and would likely cost as much from engineers of the right caliber as a new item.

Landrover say don't, they aren't entirely clear about the engineering reasons, so much so that I do think that some of it is revenue stream generation.

All good points chaps - interesting reading indeed.

As you've both mentioned opinion is split/divided on whether reworking TD5 internal components is advisable/economical/realistic etc.

In my case I'm certainly trying to avoid that at all costs. Brand new AMC head is on order, picked up some piston rings and big end bearings today, and the garage doing it is something of a local mecca for all things Land Rover thanks to his years of experience - his reputation most definitely precedes him; indeed in the workshop when I went in on one ramp was a 1960's Series 2 having a transfer box overhaul, and on the other one was a 3 year old disco 3 having the timing belt(s) done... and a car park full of green ovals awaiting work!