RRC brakes

A

[email protected]

Guest

• Jul 21, 2005

• #1

After doing a 2" spring lift I needed to replace the brake flexi pipes
with longer ones. That done, I tried to bleed the brakes. Tried with an
Easybleed and then with the old fashioned method (pedal down, open
bleed valve, close valve, pedal up etc). No matter which method, the
pedal will always push to the floor with little resistance afterwards.
I can also see brake fluid moving about in the master cylinder
reservoir, so much so that with the cap off it will splash out. Guess
the master cylinder has failed? Any other ideas before I fork out an
extortionate amount for a replacement?

Alan

'88 3.5 RRC
'98 4.6 RR HSE

 

L

Lee_D

Guest

• Jul 21, 2005

• #2

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

Any other ideas before I fork out an
> extortionate amount for a replacement?
>
> Alan
>
> '88 3.5 RRC
> '98 4.6 RR HSE
>

I had heaps of fun with our Rangie when I replaced some front brake lines
similar to your experience. They it dawned on me on day 4 in the brake
bother house, under the masses of crud on the front caliper there were an
extra set of nipples. DOH! Twin nipple callipers.... what ever will they
think of next.....

Lee D

 

G

GbH

Guest

• Jul 21, 2005

• #3

In news:[email protected],
[email protected] <[email protected]> blithered:
> After doing a 2" spring lift I needed to replace the brake flexi pipes
> with longer ones. That done, I tried to bleed the brakes. Tried with
> an Easybleed and then with the old fashioned method (pedal down, open
> bleed valve, close valve, pedal up etc). No matter which method, the
> pedal will always push to the floor with little resistance afterwards.
> I can also see brake fluid moving about in the master cylinder
> reservoir, so much so that with the cap off it will splash out. Guess
> the master cylinder has failed? Any other ideas before I fork out an
> extortionate amount for a replacement?
>
> Alan
>
> '88 3.5 RRC
> '98 4.6 RR HSE

Shouldn't that be open, down, close, up?

--
"He who says it cannot be done should not interrupt her doing it."

If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not for you!

 

A

[email protected]

Guest

• Jul 21, 2005

• #4

> Shouldn't that be open, down, close, up?

Yeah, it was actually! Though I did try the down, open (pedal sinks a
bit further), close, up technique as well. Didn't help.

And yup, I did know about the twin bleed nipples on the fronts!

With the lid to the master cylinder off I can get a good blast of fluid
out the top now, about 1" over the top if I push really hard and fast.
That ain't right! Got a new unit on order from Rimmers. Hope that
cures it.

Alan

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Jul 21, 2005

• #5

On or around Thu, 21 Jul 2005 11:16:51 +0100, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
> Any other ideas before I fork out an
>> extortionate amount for a replacement?
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> '88 3.5 RRC
>> '98 4.6 RR HSE
>>
>
>I had heaps of fun with our Rangie when I replaced some front brake lines
>similar to your experience. They it dawned on me on day 4 in the brake
>bother house, under the masses of crud on the front caliper there were an
>extra set of nipples. DOH! Twin nipple callipers.... what ever will they
>think of next.....

some of the 4-pot ones have 3 nipples - one at the top, for the top 2
pistons, and one each side half-way down, for the bottom ones. If it has 2
lines to each caliper, then they all need bleeding and there may be a
correct order to do it.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Too Busy: Your mind is like a motorway. Sometimes it can be jammed by
too much traffic. Avoid the jams by never using your mind on a
Bank Holiday weekend.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

 

D

Dougal

Guest

• Jul 21, 2005

• #6

[email protected] wrote:
> After doing a 2" spring lift I needed to replace the brake flexi pipes
> with longer ones. That done, I tried to bleed the brakes. Tried with an
> Easybleed and then with the old fashioned method (pedal down, open
> bleed valve, close valve, pedal up etc). No matter which method, the
> pedal will always push to the floor with little resistance afterwards.
> I can also see brake fluid moving about in the master cylinder
> reservoir, so much so that with the cap off it will splash out. Guess
> the master cylinder has failed? Any other ideas before I fork out an
> extortionate amount for a replacement?
>
> Alan

Regardless of the method/equipment used, it's difficult to get a good
result if the pistons are not fully back in their bores. If the pads are
new this will be achieved for you. In other cases use some temporary
packing (hardboard works well) to pad out any clearance between the
fully pushed back piston and the disc/pad.

Also beware that you may have inherited rear pistons fitted in front
callipers - there'll be a quarter of an inch of clearance behind the
piston even with new pads.

 

A

[email protected]

Guest

• Jul 23, 2005

• #7

> some of the 4-pot ones have 3 nipples - one at the top, for the top 2
> pistons, and one each side half-way down, for the bottom ones. If it has 2
> lines to each caliper, then they all need bleeding and there may be a
> correct order to do it.

Doh! I was only using the 2 nipples on the sides, didn't see the 3rd
one on the top Also read through the manual (why didn't I do that
first?) and there is a specific order in which to bleed them as well,
including opening a side and the top nipple at the same time. I'll
give that all a go and see if that cures it. Bet it does, and I've
just ordered a new master cylinder.......

Alan C