RRC Bleeding ABS Brakes. HELP!!!

Ok i am newbie to this site and i am really in need of some help and im sure some of you guys must have some answers

I have recently removed all the brake components (abs pump, master and accumulator) to replace a rusty arch, now all the brakes are refitted i cant seem to get any pressure at the pedal and the pump is running continuously.

Im using an ezibleed kit which i have managed to successfully bleed the relevant bleed nipples and using the ignition switched on with the pump running to do the others. im following a procedure that i have found on the net but cant be sure iv got it 100% correct but have bled all calipers. yesterday i got fluid flowing using the pump and all seemed ok apart from no pressure and the pump running but today it doesn't seem to want to move. could it be that air is trapped STILL, or is something else likely to be the problem.

system has no visible leaks and the brakes were all working fine before they were removed.

Has anyone suffered something similar? Im really at my whits end with the thing now and its getting very close to being scrapped. Any help at all would be very appreciated.

Sam

TURN IT OFF AND DONT TOUCH ANYTHING!
Go get the Haynes, of down-load the Rave, and READ the bleeding procedure carefully, and then try following it to the letter and HOPE you havent fried the booster.
Before bleeding you need to depressurise it, and 'prime' it with fluid, or it will run dry, and they dont like that very much!
Depressurising procedure is, ignition off, battery negative lead disconnected so you cant forget! Pump the brake pedal about 60 times to bleed off pressure.
Then, according to the procedure, you have to bleed the pump, then the abs block, then a caliper nipple, then the abs block again, then repeat corking around each caliper in turn; only its a tad more complicated becouse theres two nipples on each front caliper and they are on the same feed as one of the rears.... you NEED to rread the instructions and follow them.
Its tedius, but done to the book, works every time!
You are best using a Pressure EZ-Bleed, but, the system will take a heck of a lot of fluid to flush it through fully; expect to use two or three litres.
When doing this job, I buy a gallon can.

Teflon said:

Its tedius, but done to the book, works every time!
You are best using a Pressure EZ-Bleed, but, the system will take a heck of a lot of fluid to flush it through fully; expect to use two or three litres.
When doing this job, I buy a gallon can.

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Only 2 or 3 litres - you've been lucky. I've done 7 litres before now. Bleeding the ABS is a complete pain but really worth it; IMHO it is one of the best braking systems I've come across bearing in mind its' age. A tad complicated but extremely effective.

so there is strict procedure that needs to be followed exactly?
i have replaced all the parts with second hand items today and still i cant get pressure at the pedal and the pump keeps running. Currently trying to find a place local that sells the haynes manual, everywhere seems to have disco but not range rover.

thanks for the advise

sbriggs said:

so there is strict procedure that needs to be followed exactly?

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sbriggs said:

i have replaced all the parts with second hand items today

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OK so we now have TWO fried webasto units.........

sbriggs said:

and still i cant get pressure at the pedal and the pump keeps running.

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What did I say to begin with...... it will do that unless you depressurise the system properly before bleeding, then bleed through the system following the procedure to the letter......

sbriggs said:

Currently trying to find a place local that sells the haynes manual, everywhere seems to have disco but not range rover.

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Paddocks & Craddocks have the Haynes as well as Factory Repair Over Haul Manuals (Factory are better if you can afford it) and do mail order.

Halfords, usually have a pretty good range of Haynes on the shelf but of they dont have the one you want will normally order it in, and have it within a couple of days.

If you check the web, you can down-load the factory RAVE disc, wich is all of the Factory Repair Overhaul Manual, plus service instructions and fault finding trees, and is rather useful, though paper manual better to have infront of you while doing the job.

Now, dont do ANYTHING else until you got the book!