L322 Rough idle when warm

Hi all, I've got a problem with my l322 td6 2002(52 plate) with 133k on the clock, I've had it for about 6 months and it has run fine but about 3 weeks ago my wife ran the tank virtually dry. I managed to get to a filling station later on and it felt a little rough or poss a slight miss so I filled it up and it seemed ok. In the Following days I started to notice a judder as I release the brake and crawl forward so wasn't sure if it was gearbox or engine but in neutral it still seems a bit rough. As the weeks have gone on it's got worse but it only does it once it's warmed up. From cold it seems to run perfect and smooth. I thought of dirt from the tank clogging the fuel filter so I've replaced that and while I was at it I put in new air and pcv filters but it hasn't made any difference. When i rev it up it seems smooth higher up in the revs and then quite lumpy as it drops down past 2000revs to tick over at around 800revs. I'm pretty sure it's related to tank being run dry but it could be a red herring. I've got no engine lights on and I only have a basic obd2 reader which says no faults stored. Where do you think I should look next.

Are you sure it's not the gearbox? The GM box in those is notoriously flaky.

Hi, I guess it could be gearbox from what I've read on here, but it seems when it's the gearbox problem it is there all the time, where as this only does it when the engine warms up and gets worse the warmer it gets if that makes sense

Anyone know where I should look next to diagnose this problem?

I can only say what the clever chaps like @Saint.V8 , @holidaychicken* or others would say. Without decent diagnostics you're chasing ghosts. If you put up your location there may be someone near you,with a box of tricks, if you don't want to invest.

*clever may not be the word I meant for him

Somebody is heading for a smacked bottom!!
I have just fixed a TD6 that had rough idle and juddering on idle and when pulling away slowly which was the injector wiring. I had a Faultmate that showed injector 3 had a very high fuel compensation value. The wiring looms are a known fault. The Faultmate also reported injector 3 fault. I had to remove the two accoustic covers which is a 5 minute job and touching the injector wires caused the engine to cough. However without diagnostics as the 'clever 'Goldie points out you could be wasting your time and wiggling wires that are fragile could give you a fault that you didn't have. I unplugged the injectors and used contact cleaner and kept checking the diagnostic live data to check when it was fixed . Oversize wheels can cause rough idle for a reason I don't understand and of course if your chocolate GM transmission is unwell that could give issues when moving off.
Good Landrover based Diagnostics would be my next action with my money on injector fault of some description

^ wot he said.....

Injector wiring or a faulty injector could give rise to rough idle.

As for the wheel issue.... LR issued a tech bulletin (will have to see if I can find it) that said wheels over a certain size on the diesel will cause a vibration due to lack of dampening effect from the lower profiled tyres....Don't forget, they didn't fit a rotational damper on the diesel Td6 L322's - so to prevent driveline vibrations they used a constant slipping torque converter lock up clutch (hence why the box and TQ is so crap on them) to dampen the vibrations through the drive line - but the diesel knock vibrates like heck throughout the rest of the car and lower profiled tyres don't dampen the vibration enough.

EDIT: this also happens on the V8s for the same reason!

holidaychicken said:

Somebody is heading for a smacked bottom!!

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Is that what you charge these days. A bit of flagellation

gold rover said:

Promises, promises

In other news, did you get the key issue sorted for your pal?

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Have a wander over to fullfat and you might find out.

kds said:

Have a wander over to fullfat and you might find out.

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Or, as it was just a passing thought and not actually of great importance, I could just ask Andy here . Oh hang on I did

Yes all sorted now thanks, went to the main dealer and to be fair they were really good, only charged an hour and programmed both keys and sorted a wiring issue with the ignition switch. cost more to trailer it there and back as no mot and sorn

holidaychicken said:

Yes all sorted now thanks, went to the main dealer and to be fair they were really good, only charged an hour and programmed both keys and sorted a wiring issue with the ignition switch. cost more to trailer it there and back as no mot and sorn

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That's good. Think I'll stick to the one key , until it breaks and AA can replace.

Thanks for your input guys, what would be a good fault finding piece of kit to buy and how much roughly would it cost. also it would be good if it would work on later l322s so if i changed to a tdv8 in the future i could use it on that aswell. Also im based in Manchester.

Having been a champion of the faultmate their backup is now very thin on the ground, great kit but will cost you a fortune to buy new, allcomms wont work past 2005, i think the most popular future proof choice is the Gap IID tool.
I think in the region of £300 - £400.
There is an interesting cheapy called icarsoft which looks ok and then lynx and hawkeye also but gap would be my choice if i didn't have the faultmate and allcomms.

https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/

Ok thanks I will have a look at these when I get chance.

Hi guys just an update to let you know where I’m up to with this, I took it to have diagnostics read at a local garage which when plugged in didn’t automatically read vin and then go onto download faults which mechanic said was strange but once we put vin in manually it read egr fault so I took this off and it was cleaned then put back on and left vacuum off to see if it helped with the running but it hasn’t. Since then I’ve disconnected the maf sensor to see how that affected running and it makes no difference at all so that made me wonder if maf is faulty and car is running off a preset program as no input from maf? Then I noticed no check engine light with maf unplugged so I turned on ignition to check the check engine light but it doesn’t work. Looking on here I found the check instrument test so tried that and the lamp still didn’t come on, must of tried it 10 times and no joy. Today I tried again and no check engine light with ignition but it did work with instrument test but still no faults stored or light on from maf being unplugged?
Borrowed a fault code reader from a friend and it would not link to car. Tried numerous times but still said link error so unplugged Ecu and reconnected in case bad connection, checked the 3 fuses in passenger fuse box Which were fine, then checked voltage at obd, voltage was present and connections looked ok so after a lot of head scratching gave up and tried to move car and battery was dead. Jump started car and left running and diagnostic then connected straight away! Battery seems strong so don’t know why it went flat so quick?
On the diagnostic live info page it was showing a MAP sensor reading which changed as the engine was revved but I don’t think these cars have a MAP sensor? I thought they only have a MAF sensor and this MAP reading on the live info page was still present even with the MAF unplugged
so I’m confused as to why there’s no check engine light with MAF unplugged and why it runs the same with MAF unplugged? And why diagnostic live page shows a map sensor reading? I’ve given diagnostic unit back now but I think it was called a maxsys or something kike that (not Land Rover specific)

You could have a short somewhere causing the rapid drain although it could just be a dodgy battery. Mine will drain a battery pretty quick even with just the doors unlocked and the key not even in the ignition and my battery is good i'm sure.
I still think you need some diagnostics of your own like the allcomms and you need to make sure your battery is good and is charging as a dodgy battery can throw all sorts of faults.
Where abouts are you roughly ?

Hi I’m in Manchester, I’m gonna put the battery on a charger to make sure it’s full and then get it tested. If it fails I’ll put a new one on coz I agree that you need a good battery To start with when trying to fault find electronics. I read on here that the maf sensor only controls the egr valve on a diesel? If that’s correct how does the engine control the diesel/air mixture? Also I’ve put some diesel injector cleaner in today to see if that does anything.

I'm afraid i dont know much about the tractor engines , you are the wrong end of the country for me to help with my allcomms.
This is quite interesting
http://www.bmwforums.info/general-g...roubleshooter-guide-power-smoking-issues.html

It might help your fault finding if you search bmw m57 engine as you know this is what you have.
I believe this is your MAP sensor, have a google about cleaning it and what happens when it is not happy. not saying this is your problem.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAP-Sens...634216&hash=item361cf94c9f:g:llgAAOSwFntZbZi0