Disco 3 (LR3) Rock sliders

Hiya

so was given some rock slider/ steps for the disco, need to rub it down because the paint has started to peel, used a cheap endoscope to have a look inside and looks fine , rust is just on the outside

thinking of getting some dinotrol ML to spray inside and as the outside doesn’t need to be perfect and to keep the cost down of hand painting the outside with hammerite hammered direct to rust paint in black

other thing is there’s a hole each end of the sliders , if rain gets in it can’t get back out again so would just sit at the bottom of the tubes

wondering about drilling a couple of holes in the bottom so at least then water will be allowed to drain and not pool increasing the chance of rust , maybe 10mm holes

shame there isn’t rubber grommets that allow water out but not in

Few piccies , also ordered some new 8.8 bolts , nyloc nuts, washers etc , thought using the 8.8 will at least then be more than enough for the brackets , plus it bolts to the actual chassis and not the side sill so will be nice and strong

tubes are 3 inch in diameter so can hear the ding already if someone decides to open there door onto the disco , Lol

included a sample pic of what they look like new

thks as always

Also please ref the small sand blasting cabinets , the ones that have the top lift up lid, can u run them with the lids up plse

as I thought then if there’s any oversized objects I wish to sandblast if I can leave the lid up and rest the item on top and clean it like that or if the lid has to be closed

or something like this plse , my compressor is 50 litre, therefore with this extra 38litre would it therefore simply increase the volume linking them together

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Gallon-38L-Sandblaster-Bead-Pot-Sand-Blaster-Grit-Blasting-Blast-Sandblasting/264482565489?_trkparms=aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=1bfa4b4762104a9ca44b4e1ef4e3e398&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=12&mehot=ag&sd=183458597691&itm=264482565489&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV1Filter&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

have also thought if getting an extra tank to link into the tank, there’s a blank on the end of the compressor which I could easily fit a fitting to attach the other 50 x litre tank and wondering in theory if it would then improve the capacity and reducing the compressor cycling so much , to therefore double the volume to 100 x litres

many thks

I think I would clean it up with a wire brush wheel in the angle grinder (bloody dangerour but very effective) then rub it down with coarse emery so the paint has somehting to grip onto, then paint paint it, wont have to be perfect as it wont really be seen, especially with them rubber treadplates.
Sadly no matter what you do they will rust again, but the betetr a job you do the longer they will last.
Inside is easy enough, drill two small holes, inject oil/grease mix not masses! say haf a tea cup full each tube, and swill it around, then bung the holes up.
I have used the cheap red primer and the cheap gloss black from toolstation on my series and defender chassis with great effect.

The problem with the small compressor, especially filling 100 litres is it is going to be running pretty much non stop.
It is a bit like having a large car with a small engine, it will do the job, but it is hard work.

Have you considered getting the sliders powder coated? It'll last much longer than paint, and be more resistant to damage too.

lynall said:

I think I would clean it up with a wire brush wheel in the angle grinder (bloody dangerour but very effective) then rub it down with coarse emery so the paint has somehting to grip onto, then paint paint it, wont have to be perfect as it wont really be seen, especially with them rubber treadplates.
Sadly no matter what you do they will rust again, but the betetr a job you do the longer they will last.
Inside is easy enough, drill two small holes, inject oil/grease mix not masses! say haf a tea cup full each tube, and swill it around, then bung the holes up.
I have used the cheap red primer and the cheap gloss black from toolstation on my series and defender chassis with great effect.

The problem with the small compressor, especially filling 100 litres is it is going to be running pretty much non stop.
It is a bit like having a large car with a small engine, it will do the job, but it is hard work.

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many thks as always

funny enough I used some emery cloth on my sander , top coats comes off really easy , also used a file sander for the areas where the paint was lifting and showing signs of rust

have ordered the ML, alas hadn’t thought about using oil

see ur point ref the compressor , was just an after thought

enclosed some more pics, Tin is just there to show scale of the sliders , plus there were some plastic washers, bought a sheet of 1mm plastic, same thickness as original and made up some new ones , just got to drill some 8mm holes in them, also 2 x new body mount bolts because that’s what the bracket fixes to and the new nuts and bolts

getting there and know it will take me ages but got plenty of time on my hands so not worried

thanks again

Nodge68 said:

Have you considered getting the sliders powder coated? It'll last much longer than paint, and be more resistant to damage too.

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hi, many thks and funny enough I did , but would work out around £100 if going by previous quotes for when I wanted some wheels powered coated so thought it was abit too much bit indeed that would have been an ideal finish

In future for plastic washers, just use a cut open clear 5 litre plastic container, nice plastic, cuts real easy, and of course its free once you have used the contents, mine normally had screenwash in them.

lynall said:

In future for plastic washers, just use a cut open clear 5 litre plastic container, nice plastic, cuts real easy, and of course its free once you have used the contents, mine normally had screenwash in them.

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oh bloody hell, what a doughnut , I’ll remember that next time , thks for the idea

gstuart said:

oh bloody hell, what a doughnut , I’ll remember that next time , thks for the idea

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If you notice a lot of packaging is no longer cardboard but plastic, and it has many uses in a second life.

On the series and defender motors ii is quite normal to have plastic shims between the body panels to try and stop corrosion, again all made from thin plastic sheeting/containers

lynall said:

If you notice a lot of packaging is no longer cardboard but plastic, and it has many uses in a second life.

On the series and defender motors ii is quite normal to have plastic shims between the body panels to try and stop corrosion, again all made from thin plastic sheeting/containers

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funny enough I always used the milk cartons for draining radiators , were perfect for the job, but alas didn’t give it a second thought ref the washers

hope the body mount bolts will come out,

So after a lot of searching I finally found some small lances for my karcher jetwasher ,

as i want to blast the insides out the these rails before spraying it with Dinitrol ML , will also do the rear crossmember as that will get the same paint treatment

Once ive sprayed the rear crossmember with Dinitrol that will be the entire chassis inside and out done , the underside of body shell Including cavities has already been sprayed , inc behind wheel arch liners

fingers crossed will help it last longer

Plus a complete mystery, this test light also ended up in my shopping list, bizarre

gstuart said:

Plus a complete mystery, this test light also ended up in my shopping list, bizarre

View attachment 214458 View attachment 214459

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Gary, have got a link for that test light?

lynall said:

Gary, have got a link for that test light?

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No probs, , went for this one particular as it had the added display , did notice there’s plenty on ebay but went for sealey as I thought then at least it would be half decent

This was the company, FFX, dealt with them before and always found them very good

will be interesting to get ur opinion on it plse seeing u use tools professionally everyday, thks

https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product...-48V?msclkid=cc4822161f131cdf798f7d1f85734a72


Product Details

Identifies polarity of circuit being tested on LCD display, red for positive and green for negative. LCD meter draws minute currents making this tool safe to use around delicate electronic components. With a range of 3-48V DC, this tool is suitable for motorcycle, car, hybrid and commercial vehicles. Supplied with 3m coiled cable and insulated crocodile earth clamp. Do not use on air bags.

few example pics from the sealey web site as reference

hope that helps

Plus , wouldn’t buy one but never seen one before

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-T...t-0-05-5Nm-1-4-Hex-Drive-STS103-/141426181187

You wont believe what crap we use to fix things, pretty much every tool requires repair before using it, as the last bloke broke or damaged it in some way or another.
This is why the better hgv techs have all their own kit (hence the large tool boxes) and try and avoid company tools at all costs.

Foe most electrical work I have a cheap 30 quid multi meter, and most importantly of all a bulb and two long wires.
Every now and then I find myself explaining to people at work who really should know better, why the bulb is needed and why you cannot always believe the multimeter.

Same as why crap mechanics have lump hammers, and decent guys have ball pein hammers.

lynall said:

You wont believe what crap we use to fix things, pretty much every tool requires repair before using it, as the last bloke broke or damaged it in some way or another.
This is why the better hgv techs have all their own kit (hence the large tool boxes) and try and avoid company tools at all costs.

Foe most electrical work I have a cheap 30 quid multi meter, and most importantly of all a bulb and two long wires.
Every now and then I find myself explaining to people at work who really should know better, why the bulb is needed and why you cannot always believe the multimeter.

Same as why crap mechanics have lump hammers, and decent guys have ball pein hammers.

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Indeed, must admit I’ve always bought the best tools I’ve been able to afford and alas never lend them out, even my brothers know not to ask, lol

got so fed up in the past of lending tools and then finding them either broke or missing , so said enough was enough

as u also say ref testing with a bulb, is a very easy way to test some faults, another reason I thought this particular test light will be perfect like testing fuse boxes in it being a lot quicker, along with the positive / ground indication inc Vdc

same I assume in every field, with boiler repairs the amount of times I came across part changers or glorified part monkeys , so called engineers from insurance companies were the worst for “ let’s keep replacing parts attitude”

So spent a good few hours cleaning up 2 x of the rock slider brackets , just have the other 2 x to finish

don’t know what paint was put on there from the factory as is was like a very thin primer

Bought a tin of hammerite hammered and will paint it on to the outside of the rock sliders and brackets ,

power washed inside them and will leave to dry for a few days , will then use some Tetrosyl TSH010 Tetraschutz Body Rust Protector for Inside the sliders , bought 2 x 1 litre cans for £12, will use a Shultz spray Gun for that as it worked out a lot cheaper ,

might have enough to spray inside the rear bumper crossbar , can then use some Hammerite for the outside

As I’ll also be removing the rear bumper to treat around the towing sockets , will use some Metamorphosis rust convertor treatment for that

At the same time I’ll fit the PDC wiring loom, also looking at fitting some small 20mm led lights into the rear bumper and link it via my reverse light feed , got the set of 10 x drl lights for £9.00 so will be nice to see if I can utilise them

Looking forward getting the rock sliders fitted , plus nice I don’t have to cut the plastic sill covers

Few more pics of the drl lights, also included is a hole saw

Just noticed this thread...I would have coated everything inside and out with rust convertor before paint...using it to good effect on P6 resto hard to get to bits brush a lot on then use air pistol to blow it around...