Ripply P38 Rear Bumper fixes?

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That's what I feared, I'll keep an eye on E-bay and see if any good ones come up then I'll try stripping all the steel bits out and swapping them into my bumper. My one is a fully painted version so unless I find another Epsom green one it will look a bit odd.

Maybe I could adapt a steel lintel from the local builders merchants into it! :D

Craig.
 
craggle said:
That's what I feared, I'll keep an eye on E-bay and see if any good ones come up then I'll try stripping all the steel bits out and swapping them into my bumper. My one is a fully painted version so unless I find another Epsom green one it will look a bit odd.

Maybe I could adapt a steel lintel from the local builders merchants into it! :D

Craig.
Click to expand...

Craig,

Give Joe a ring .....EMMOTTS of Colne
07785 240021

He has LOTS of bumpersyou MAY be able to "Extract" the "Inner" mounting plate & refit it into your own Colour Coded bumper .....

Joe is a TOP BLOKE & will not have yer trousers down for a bumper!!! NO WAY!!


Keith
 
Well, Just in case anyone is interested here's what I did.

I phoned a place called inside out 4x4 who is based only a few miles from where I live and luckily enough they had a P38 in for breaking with front end damage. I nipped over there and managed to remove the rear bumper to reveal a very nice steel structure inside with only surface rust so I paid £50 and took it home.
The steel bits are only screwed into the plastic bumper with 4 bolts and 2 screws so I soon took the steel bits out, cleaned them up, painted them with some gloss black chassis paint then re-fitted it all into my original green painted plastic shell.

New brackets on the chassis ensured a nice fit and with plenty of copper grease on the bolts it was secured back into place. A simple task in the end and it looks as good as new. :D

If anyone needs a very good condition, black plastic bumper shell with Epsom green inserts, I have one going spare.

Thanks for the help

Craig.
 
craggle said:
Well, Just in case anyone is interested here's what I did.

I phoned a place called inside out 4x4 who is based only a few miles from where I live and luckily enough they had a P38 in for breaking with front end damage. I nipped over there and managed to remove the rear bumper to reveal a very nice steel structure inside with only surface rust so I paid £50 and took it home.
The steel bits are only screwed into the plastic bumper with 4 bolts and 2 screws so I soon took the steel bits out, cleaned them up, painted them with some gloss black chassis paint then re-fitted it all into my original green painted plastic shell.

New brackets on the chassis ensured a nice fit and with plenty of copper grease on the bolts it was secured back into place. A simple task in the end and it looks as good as new. :D

If anyone needs a very good condition, black plastic bumper shell with Epsom green inserts, I have one going spare.

Thanks for the help

Craig.
Click to expand...

I might be as my ripple fixes were totally unsuccessful...
 
Irishrover said:
Hi Kooky...so what you are saying is that you did not have any luck with any adhesive which would hold it down.
Click to expand...

Yup. My sure thing, guarranteed to stick anything to anything, highly recommended (not to mention expensive) glue was totally useless. When I took the clamps off, I was simply astounded at just how useless it actually was. Mebbe it needed 24 hours to set or something, but I had to get my bumper back on.

I even tried my hot air gun on it, but that didn't have any noticeable effect either.

Stupid bumper.
 
Just goes to prove then that the problem , although very common is difficult, if not impossible to fix short of fitting a row of pop rivets or bolts.

If Land Rover made bumpers...they would, like everything else with a LR label on it, be crap. Now moan about Britpart !!!
 
If you need it, Your welcome to come and collect it. I see your not far away as I'm only in Dorking. I'll give you a hand to swap it over too if you want.

I used a line of Wurth Adhesive + seal (Polyurethane adhesive basically) along the top of my one when I reassemled it and then slid the metal clips back into place. Seemed to hold it down just fine.

Craig.
 
craggle said:
If you need it, Your welcome to come and collect it. I see your not far away as I'm only in Dorking. I'll give you a hand to swap it over too if you want.

I used a line of Wurth Adhesive + seal (Polyurethane adhesive basically) along the top of my one when I reassemled it and then slid the metal clips back into place. Seemed to hold it down just fine.

Craig.
Click to expand...

Cheers Craig. Might well take you up on that! Not sure I can face taking it off again just yet though.

Guy
 
Irishrover said:
If anyone has found a good adhesive for the problem PLEASE post it on here I am sure that there are a lot of P38's out there that suffer from this.
Click to expand...


High modulus silicone, but takes a while to cure. Construction adhesive, sticks **** to gas tar if used properly.
 
Hi
Go to your nearest body repair supplier and buy some poyurethane adhesive( comes in a mastic tube also used to bond pannels on with.) scuff up the two mating surfaces and apply the sticky stuff, clamp it in position and allow 24 hours for it to set. this is the same stuff that they glue windscreens in with, worked for me
 
Irishrover said:
If anyone has found a good adhesive for the problem PLEASE post it on here I am sure that there are a lot of P38's out there that suffer from this.
Click to expand...

i used to work for a company who sold this stuff,if this dont stick it nothing will believe me.

Sikaflex 221 One-Component Adhesive Black 300ml
[SIKA221BK]£10.21 Inc
pixel_trans.gif

Click to enlarge [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Description: One Component , fast curing polyurethane based elastomeric adhesive/sealant. Moisture cured, non-sag system. Permanently elastic bond to fasten materials which have dissimilar coefficients of expansion. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Applications: Exposed/concealed lap seams, rivet seams, roof rails, expansion/control joints, pre-cast concrete panel joints and tilt up panel joints. Substrates: Aluminum, steel, wood, FRP, SMC, RIM, prepainted metals, Zincalume, Zincgrip and aluminized steel - many without primers. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Advantages: Does not attack metal coatings, rapid cure. Overpaint once fully cured, with water, oil and rubber based coatings. Provides shock resistance, vibration damping. Weather resistant, resistant to road salts. NSF/USDA approved for incidental food contact. Resistant to cuts and tears. Key Properties: Tack free time 50 - 90 minutes, Elongation at break 600%, Tensile Strength 225 psi, +/- 12.5% expansion/contraction.[/FONT]
 
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