Rippling hammerite

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BeeBoy

Member
Posts
85
Location
Co. Westmeath, Ireland
Evenin All.

Hammerite problem
Afternoon All!

Decided that the multiple-colour, interspersed with rust and knocks, look was a bit sore on the eyes - had a couple of years like this now. So, decided to paint it myself as can't afford to pay an expert.

Anyway, decided to hammerite it (I can hear the sharp intakes of breathes from here), blue body work and whit roof. To cut to the chase, I've got rippling on some of the panels where I may, but can't confirm or deny, have put too thick a coat on. From a distance it looks the dogs wotsits, but up close it just looks a load of old wotsits!

So, question is: is there anyway to remove rippling without completely stripping it? Bit of gentle sanding?A few thin coats going in the directions of ripples?

Incidentally, the new rollable hammerite is great stuff!
 
It used to be smoothrite. But apparently it was rebranded (like eveyrthing) to hammerite, smooth finish. (they also do a satin!)

I think hammerite is tosh at the minute anyway. The stuff in the aerosols doesnt cover ****, seems to react with everything, and never seems to dry.
 
Probably best to scrap off the nasty bits. Hammerite takes AGES to dry if it's slapped on too thick and it will just tear and look nasty if you sand it.
Or just leave it. Take it off road and put some fresh scratches on :D
 
you can carefully remove it with a stanley knife blade, by shaving off the nasty bits-light shaving and be careful not to dig ends in.
 
Hi Guys,

I have found by experimentation on my old Wok that if the hammerite has not "gone off" with it's 6 month curing time. Then burning it is about the best way. However, something I have discovered is that Hammerite ain't what it used to be, it's changed.

I have painted my Disco wheel arch with it only a few months back and the dogs claws were enough to leave scratches in the surface. Paints in general seem to be crap just now following the eco-friendly rules on solvents that they must all be water based. The problem is this seems to have reduced the capability of the paints, which had evolved over 100 years to be tough as nails. The new ones seem a bit lack lustre so far and I suspect the cost of mechanical rot will start in a few years unless the standard improves.

Has anyone found a truly tough paint recently that does what it says on the tin?

Cheers,

Rob
 
Details can be found:

VOC 2010 legislation
What have we done?

An interesting thread on the subject, although it does wander a bit is:

Britchopper.co.uk • View topic - Smooth Hammerite...

If like me you have a collection of old tins of Hammerite, I would recommend guarding them for a while so that you have a reliable option for those essential jobs. Hammerite used to be very high VOC, hence why you could get quite high and ill on it when doing big jobs. You will note the tin has changed quite a bit on the new ones, the instructions are much tamer.
 
if you dont mind haveing a pretty **** choice of colour try looking on fleabay and look for engineering machinery paint ive just done my lathe with some blue that i got from a myford dealer its fukkin amazing oil based with the lead additive goes off rock hard in 12 hours and is indestructible failing that before ive gone to a vehicle body repair garage and got given a 10 litre drum of high gloss black paint that i used to use on the bumpers and stuff on my work vans that was pretty darn good aswell but your right hammerrite is ****in **** nowadays i tried it on a trailer chassis a couple of months ago and burned it all off then redone it with b&q non drip gloss and got a great result pretty tough to scratch aswell
regards john
 
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