Revs not dropping during gear change

Hi all
I've recently purchased a 2002 TD5, it's non facelift but am told it has the later engine.
I noticed that during gear changes at high revs the engine revs won't drop for a second or 2, I read that this can be caused by the switch in the hydrolic system that cuts the diesel during gear change.
I've replaced this for a new switch but the issue is still there. Any other suggestions would be grately appreciated

Manual or auto?

Manuel

Mine does this too but only when I am really giving it some so thought it was how they are?

mattallaspects said:

Mine does this too but only when I am really giving it some so thought it was how they are?

Click to expand...

Well I've read it's the clutch switch but replaced that and it's the same

Mine never did it before the remapped ecu went in its a manual v reg I assumed it was down to remap ect so interested if there is a solution. Have you tried posting on thed2boysclub? They have some really knowledgable peeps on there (I think most are on here too tho)

Hi, Do you have cruise control? If so engage it and then dip the clutch. It should come out of cruise control if the switch is working properly.
HTH,
Griff

No cruise control fitted

the fact that you replaced the switch doesnt rule out a wiring issue on that circuit, the symptom is definitely a lack of surge damping which is managed by the clutch switch only... find somebody with a tester to check the live input to see if the signal from the switch gets to the ECM or not, i hope you bought the propoer one, see this(the last paragraph) http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/2019724-post2.html

you can check with multimeter too at the ECM but you need RAVE for the pin disposals, i can help you if you are up to it

I did see that and made sure I bought the correct one. Just a thought. We are having trouble bleeding the clutch. The pedal still seems to low dispite trying the suggested methods. Could it be air in the system affecting the operation of the switch maybe?

Off course, its hydraulically activated, if yours is on the master cylinder i'm affraid you need to replace that too(i mean the cylinder), and if you do better do the slave as well...then you'll bleed it in no time

My switch is the inline type but am thinking replacing the slave and master cylinders might be the way forward as they aren't expensive

Replaceing the master and slave at the same time is a good move if they are old and you'll see that you'll bleed it easy then but if still no joy with the surge damping it means that the wiring between the switch and ECM is the problem and the signal from the switch doesnt reach the destination

Maybe I should check thqt before Condemning the cylinders

you said it's hard to bleed so you can condemn the cylinders without remorse

I thought they were a pig to bleed anyway? I've actually got it half descent at the moment. Around 2 inches of play at the top of the pedal and the bite is maybe an inch off the floor. At least it's useable anyway

with new cylinders it's a piece of cake to bleed as long as you do it as in the book, i improved the method by using a funnel attached to a hose and after 10-15 pedals it's perfect, just wait with pedal depressed while the bubbles are leaving the fluid... see attachment

So instead of the hose going into fluid in a tub you used a funnel part filled with fluid?

Yes, the funnel and the hose must be filled so when you attach it to the bleed nipple to be airless then when you untighten the nipple and depress the pedal the air goes up through the fluid and when you release the pedal it sucks fluid in and so on... just be patient and dont do sudden moves, when no bubbles are coming tighten the nipple and job done but if the slave is old and it was released once from the rod the piston's seal can get hurt by the internal wear of the cylinder as it has an edge at the end of the seal's travel and it will be impossible to bleed

Ok I'll give that a go first