Rev's keeping up on KV6

Hi,

I new here, but immediately have a small question.

My 2000 KV6 Freelander yesterday suddenly tries to increase the revs to about 1500rpm. Which means that I really have to keep my foot on the brakes at a trafficlight.. Today I had a small peek under the hood and found this little tube on the top of the Jatco autobox. Looks like there used to be a hose connected to it, but I cannot find any in the surroundings. I also left clueless when looking into the workshop manuals.

Does anybody have a clue whether this pipe needs connection and what could be keeping up the rev's?

Thanks in advance.

Thats the auto's breather and doesn't have a pipe fitted to it. It shouldn't be blocked. You may see the odd one on the web with a pipe on it but it will be an open pipe at the other end as it's used to raise it so they can go through deeper water.

Sounds like the iacv is sticking. Remove the plastic engine cover and the iacv intake pipe and spray a couple of quick bursts of wd40 into the valve. It should clean the gunk off it.

Sounds like good help. I also dicovered that it only keeps the revs up when put into "D" or "R". Putting it in "N" gives normal stationairy figures ~750rpm.

Quick question: Can you indicate a bit clearer what (and where) the iacv is?

Stunz said:

Sounds like good help. I also dicovered that it only keeps the revs up when put into "D" or "R". Putting it in "N" gives normal stationairy figures ~750rpm.

Quick question: Can you indicate a bit clearer what (and where) the iacv is?

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Here's a pic. It's the alloy block in the middle of the picture with the grey pipe sticking out the bottom (yours will be black), there will also be a black plastic motor on it's right hand side which is easy to spot as it has wires coming out it. There is also a small black pipe sticking out the top.

Close up (sorry about the quality)
This pic is actually off my ZS180 but it's the same part giving the same fault!! It's a common fault that is normaly fixed with a quick clean!!
You need to remove the engine cover/ filter assembly to get at the Throttle Body (tb) that the Idle Air Control Valve (iacv) is part of. You just need to pull the smaller of the 2 rubber pipes that go into the front of the Tb as this is the pipe that supplies the air for idle control. The valve inside the iacv gums up over time so needs cleaning. Wd40 is as good as anything els to be honest and is readily available!!

Today I finnaly had time to try this. It worked for the first run, but now it seems to have the old problem again. But it is directly related to the auto-box. So if I have the transmission in D or R (anything but P and N) It will try to get the engine to ~1200 RPM. If I put it then to N at a traffic light ot returns to ~750 rpm...
Any other clues?

If the revs only went up on tick over when in Drive or Reverse then that would make me think theres a sensor not reporting correctly, or the thing that tells it to increase revs int working propper.

Gearbox temp sensor could be at fault or the gearbox is getting hot? Are the engine cooling fans running or even working? Does it do it from cold? the box can control idle speed to increase cooling if the box is hot or thinks it is.

Nodge68 said:

Gearbox temp sensor could be at fault or the gearbox is getting hot? Are the engine cooling fans running or even working? Does it do it from cold? the box can control idle speed to increase cooling if the box is hot or thinks it is.

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Gearbox is not getting extreemly hot, engine fans are working but not cutting in. It does it indeed from cold. I had yesterday evening the impression it even does it when I'm running at ~35kmh or so through the area were I live, that I normally do with slightly touching the throttle, but at that time I even didn't have to do that. suddenly it slowed down (revs down again) and I had to slightly push the throttle again. So makes me also think there is a bad contact or a sensor playing faulty (intermittend) I think I will check both barrel connectors on the gearbox first.
Any clues on checking the gearbox themperature sensor?

update:
Yesterday afternoon it seem to work ok again. I only worked on the iacv, so I still think that must be it. Maybe on saturday I still had a sticking action of the stepper. It was quite dirty so to say. As I drive the car only very occacionally I might only find out after weeks whether it is solved. But let's say it is for now.
Thanks all for your advice so far.

Stunz said:

update:
Yesterday afternoon it seem to work ok again. I only worked on the iacv, so I still think that must be it. Maybe on saturday I still had a sticking action of the stepper. It was quite dirty so to say. As I drive the car only very occacionally I might only find out after weeks whether it is solved. But let's say it is for now.
Thanks all for your advice so far.

Click to expand...

It could be that the iacv needs another clean? When you select a gear the ecu knows and would adjust the idle to compensate, however to pick the revs up quickly it would likely momentarily admit more air than is actually required to the correct idle but it could be sticking at the larger opening. If that makes sense ?

Could be. I will probably check again next weekend. Thanks all

!!! SOLVED IT !!!

Hello all,

I have been struggling with the issue now for more than a year but never got around in trying to solve it (I use the car only once a week for shopping and family trips). But now it started to annoy me and I started with a new throttle body from ebay. Which actually didn’t made much of a difference. So started cleaning all connectors under the bonnet, VIS-motors, again AICV, still no difference. I reset the TPS according procedure (ignition on, 5x pressing throttle full, ignition off, start).

Then the car was running very smooth under idle conditions when in N or P, but as soon as I got to R,D,4,2, manual or auto the idle came on high again and the car was difficult (if not impossible) to drive. Returning to N or P made the idle normal again.

Yesterday afternoon (in a traffic-jam!) I got a bright idea which solved it all. I followed the TPS-reset procedure with the auto-selector in D and after that it all worked fine and perfect. And now after a few more drives of total ~200km it still is…

I never would have guessed that the TPS reset should be done in that way on an automatic gearbox. I don’t know about a KV6 with a manual, but I’m happy again with my car. If you experiences the same symptoms, you might give it a try !

Enjoy your Holidays !

Hello,

One other thing ... (assuming that the TPS reset doesn't do the same thing..??).
The IACV is a stepper motor.. The "last used" position is stored in one of the electronic control units. If the stepper mechanism is "sticky", then the stored position may actually be invalid. You can force a reset be disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes.

See http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/v6-idle-air-control-valve-stepper-motor-query-242290.html for my experiences with this one.

Bodge99

That was the main path I was thinking along all the time, but didn't do the job for my problem, but was usefull inthe search for the main fault !

Hello,

One further thought.. have you checked that the VIS motors are actually working properly? I expect that you know about the micro switch problem in these..

I've had some really weird problems over the last year or so.. sometimes similar to what you describe.. sometimes different. One was an error code being generated that seemed to point to a failing oxygen sensor.

As part of pre and post MOT repairs, this was changed. (I had to destroy the old one getting it out). The fault seemed to disappear for a while.. but it did return once.

Now that the IACV and VIS motors are fixed, all is sweet. I'm now of the opinion that the intermittent problems with both of these were the cause of everything.

Bodge99

Stunz said:

Yesterday afternoon (in a traffic-jam!) I got a bright idea which solved it all. I followed the TPS-reset procedure with the auto-selector in D and after that it all worked fine and perfect. And now after a few more drives of total ~200km it still is…

Click to expand...

Hello,
You mean that you followed the below procedure while in motion. Did I get right? Please clarify the items so that I can perform the same for my son's car...
* Ignition on (obviously engine is running or, you applied ignition off and then back on again while in motion???)
* 5x pressing throttle full (five times you depressed the accelerator like you want to reach the top speed and then give up suddenly while in motion???)
* Ignition off
* Start (I think engine could be started above the certain speed with the selector in "D". I had an Opel Omega and, I used to start the engine above 60 kmh when selector in "D").
Thank you...

FREELAND2001 said:

Hello,
You mean that you followed the below procedure while in motion. Did I get right? Please clarify the items so that I can perform the same for my son's car...
* Ignition on (obviously engine is running or, you applied ignition off and then back on again while in motion???)
* 5x pressing throttle full (five times you depressed the accelerator like you want to reach the top speed and then give up suddenly while in motion???)
* Ignition off
* Start (I think engine could be started above the certain speed with the selector in "D". I had an Opel Omega and, I used to start the engine above 60 kmh when selector in "D").
Thank you...

Click to expand...

Pressing the throttle 5 times does nothing to the KV6. That process only worked for early MEMs ECUs.

What's the fault you have?

Nodge68 said:

Pressing the throttle 5 times does nothing to the KV6. That process only worked for early MEMs ECUs.

What's the fault you have?

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According to my son (they are at the Egean coast for holiday); fluctuating idle, not more than 3000 RPM, occasional engine stops and transmission kicks right before slow down and stop.
I will be going there on Friday to pick my family up and write about what's going on exactly...
I am plannning to clean up the throttle first, since I cannot do much there. I am sure you can suggest me many things to do when I get there to bring the Freelander back home safely and without problems on the wayback for 610km...
By the way, my son had an accident as to be needed for replacement most of the parts like left axle even the transmission from salvage. I assume that a 2-4 brake solenoid is malfunctioning because of kicking issue...
Thanks from now...