L322 Reversed polarity attempted jumpstart...now won't start.

George B · Jun 3, 2019

I'm fairly fluent in P38 troubleshooting but a novice when it comes to the L322. Here's the situation:
2009 North America Range Rover L322 HSE petrol. Neighbor's L322 was dead, so her other neighbor attempted jump start but REVERSED POLARITY!

Car wouldn't start even when polarity was corrected......Now she has a full charge, all electricals in the cabin seem to work fine in key position 1 but nothing happens in key position 2. Not a sound from the starter---no clicking, nothing. I'm going to use a VOM to see if power is getting to the starter, but I suspect it isn't a starter problem...if I'm correct, where do I go next to troubleshoot this problem? Others have suggested resetting the ECU, or checking relays and fuses, or ?

Not sure how to troubleshoot from here...Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Saint.V8 · Jun 3, 2019

Errrr....... urmmmm........you see the thing is.......well, you see........but ermm....I hate to say it.....but, perhaps....maybe, oh God how do I break the news???......, the problem is....well.....batteries, you know the things with a positive and a negative, well they kinda like being a certain way around....and erm, all the delicate little ECUs that rely on these little volts all going the right way, well, they erm, don't like it when they go the wrong way....sometimes to the point of going bye-byes....

Joking aside, the L322 is very vulnerable when the jump is done incorrectly, without reversing the polarity....so reversing the juice could have had all sorts of consequences for the poor thing.

First course of action is to get it on diagnostics and ensure you can still talk all the ECUs on the networks......andgo from there,first port of call is the EWS system (this is the immobiliser)

Si Click · Jun 3, 2019

Oh sh1t! Modern cars really do not appreciate electrical cock ups. If your friend is really lucky then a fusible link will have taken the brunt and saved the ECUs from being BBQ'd. I would start with hope in your heart and check all of the fusible links/common fuses.
My son connected the battery on his Defender TD5 the wrong way around and got away with just frying the alternator, but an L322 is a much, much more sophisticated and therefore vulnerable product. Good luck.

George B · Jun 3, 2019

Thanks much for your insights...Guess I'll be checking fuses tonight for starters...
George

George B · Jun 3, 2019

Saint.V8 said:
Errrr....... urmmmm........you see the thing is.......well, you see........but ermm....I hate to say it.....but, perhaps....maybe, oh God how do I break the news???......, the problem is....well.....batteries, you know the things with a positive and a negative, well they kinda like being a certain way around....and erm, all the delicate little ECUs that rely on these little volts all going the right way, well, they erm, don't like it when they go the wrong way....sometimes to the point of going bye-byes....

Joking aside, the L322 is very vulnerable when the jump is done incorrectly, without reversing the polarity....so reversing the juice could have had all sorts of consequences for the poor thing.

First course of action is to get it on diagnostics and ensure you can still talk all the ECUs on the networks......andgo from there,first port of call is the EWS system (this is the immobiliser)

George B · Jun 3, 2019

The only thing I have access to without towing elsewhere is an iCarSoft LR diagnostic scanner. Not sure what to look for but I will give it a shot. Is there a simple way to reset the immobilizer? I know how on the P38, but understand that the L322 automatically resets the immobilizer when the key is inserted in the ignition...true or false?
also, what fuses or relays might I go after first? I know of only two fuse boxes...one in the trunk and one in the glove box, but the owners manual suggests, without giving specifics, that there is one in the engine compartment.
Also, is the ECU actually behind the glovebox requiring removing the entire dash for access and replacement???
I think I'm in for an education on L322's.

Thanks,
George

myfirstl322 · Jun 4, 2019

George B said:
The only thing I have access to without towing elsewhere is an iCarSoft LR diagnostic scanner. Not sure what to look for but I will give it a shot. Is there a simple way to reset the immobilizer? I know how on the P38, but understand that the L322 automatically resets the immobilizer when the key is inserted in the ignition...true or false?
also, what fuses or relays might I go after first? I know of only two fuse boxes...one in the trunk and one in the glove box, but the owners manual suggests, without giving specifics, that there is one in the engine compartment.
Also, is the ECU actually behind the glovebox requiring removing the entire dash for access and replacement???
I think I'm in for an education on L322's.

Thanks,
George

Engine ECU/ECM is beside the air filter in it's own air fed box, at least up to 2005/6 'Gas engine'.

Maybe your thinking BCEM, not sure where that lives.

George B · Jun 4, 2019

This truck is a 2009 HSE petrol Range Rover. Shop manual indicates one in engine compartment, one behind glove box and one in the trunk.
Must one remove the entire dash to access the one behind the glovebox??? Can’t find any guidance.

gold rover · Jun 4, 2019

George B said:
This truck is a 2009 HSE petrol Range Rover. Shop manual indicates one in engine compartment, one behind glove box and one in the trunk.
Must one remove the entire dash to access the one behind the glovebox??? Can’t find any guidance.

Are you sure they dont mean one in glovebox, like earlier L322s? As for guidance TOPIx is the one for that age L322, I believe. A quick search will point you where to find it, as I cant remember the link.

P.s I'd take your mention of the ejoke off your profile. It does your standing in the community untold harm to be associated with them

George B · Jun 4, 2019

gold rover said:
Are you sure they dont mean one in glovebox, like earlier L322s? As for guidance TOPIx is the one for that age L322, I believe. A quick search will point you where to find it, as I cant remember the link.

P.s I'd take your mention of the ejoke off your profile. It does your standing in the community untold harm to be associated with them

Not sure what joke you are referring to?

In any event, I downloaded the L322 shop manual which clearly locates all three ECM’s.

The CJB is behind the glovebox in that one must remove the glovebox to get access to it. I was told by a Rover technician one must “remove the dashboard “ to get full access. However, I saw one thread stating that it is difficult but possible to pull it after one removes the glovebox completely. Will have a look at this tonight. One can readily access the fuse board on the back of the CJB once the glove box hinges are disconnected. Removal of that fuse board and the attached CJB may be a very different task. More on this later.

norseman · Jun 4, 2019

Frying tonight ?
These are not cars to us 'oldies, more like motorised computers

I'd be mortified if I made such an obvious error, especially to somebody else's motor.

JUKE179r · Jun 5, 2019

George B said:
The only thing I have access to without towing elsewhere is an iCarSoft LR diagnostic scanner.

Well it's good you at least have that scanner. Have you started to read or clear the faults yet? Did you start already to check for burned fuses or relays in all 3 of the fues/relay boxes? Try a good battery?
I don't have an RR but I'm just thinking of the basics to start to troubleshoot. Also check YouTube for videos of your problem.
or...

George B · Jun 11, 2019

Thanks Mike. I have nearly checked all the fuses, but not the relays. Nothing fried at this point. Will try the "Hard Reset" this week and report back. Will also post any codes I discover.
Greatly appreciated.

George B · Jun 12, 2019

JUKE179r said:
Well it's good you at least have that scanner. Have you started to read or clear the faults yet? Did you start already to check for burned fuses or relays in all 3 of the fues/relay boxes? Try a good battery?
I don't have an RR but I'm just thinking of the basics to start to troubleshoot. Also check YouTube for videos of your problem.
or...

Tried the hard reset as you directed, but no change. But can anyone tell me what the “megafuse “ that is attached to the positive battery cable does.

brianp38dse · Jun 12, 2019

George B said:
Tried the hard reset as you directed, but no change. But can anyone tell me what the “megafuse “ that is attached to the positive battery cable does.

Are you sure its a fuse it may well be the pyrotechnic charge to blow the power in the event of an accident.

marjon · Jun 12, 2019

Does it look like this?

In which case yes it is just a huge fuse, you can see it in the last pic. And yes just another fuse, just big.

But as above it may be the pyro type not sure what year they stopped using it.

J

George B · Jun 22, 2019

marjon said:
Does it look like this?
View attachment 181135

In which case yes it is just a huge fuse, you can see it in the last pic. And yes just another fuse, just big.

But as above it may be the pyro type not sure what year they stopped using it.

J

Thanks much for your input. I’ll take a closer look today and compare to your picture. What I do know is that it says “MEGAFUSE” on it. I will check for continuity.

George B · Jun 22, 2019

Also, can’t find the location of the starter relay after searching internet for an hour. I found a reference to part number YWB101050. But haven’t a clue where it is.
Thanks for any help on this.

L322 Reversed polarity attempted jumpstart...now won't start.

George B

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