Reverse Gear

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arcline

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Bedford
I was having problems with reverse gear popping out of drive, then after some mild off road i couldnt engage reverse at all. No noise of gears trying to engage just rods wouldnt move. i removed gearbox and checked selector, adjusted and put back together all working. gears worked fine for a while, went off road and reverse will not engage again, shaft will not push back to engage, does any body have any "good" suggestions.
 
If the rod won't move at all its vry likely an interlocking problem. Check the selector detent balls and springs and interlocking pins are all greased, moving and working right. I had a similar problem caused by one of the selector rods sliding back when parked on a hill and in neutral, causing the others to be immovable.
Ad
 
If the rod won't move at all its vry likely an interlocking problem. Check the selector detent balls and springs and interlocking pins are all greased, moving and working right. I had a similar problem caused by one of the selector rods sliding back when parked on a hill and in neutral, causing the others to be immovable.
Ad

Good advice.

'Nother possibility is a broken sync spring blocking the actual reverse gear from moving. Get a bit of double sided tape and stick a strong magnet (dead hard drive is a great source) onto the sump plug. Drive for a while and then change the oil.

The steel bits will have stuck into the brass plug.

If there's nothing significant there, then Ad is right.
 
Good advice.

'Nother possibility is a broken sync spring blocking the actual reverse gear from moving. Get a bit of double sided tape and stick a strong magnet (dead hard drive is a great source) onto the sump plug. Drive for a while and then change the oil.

The steel bits will have stuck into the brass plug.

If there's nothing significant there, then Ad is right.


use a magnetic like they put down a cow throat for metal fever, they have about 15# of power and cost about 1$us or less from a farm supply store or a butcher that kills cow. about as big as your thumb:D:D:D
 
Good advice.

'Nother possibility is a broken sync spring blocking the actual reverse gear from moving. Get a bit of double sided tape and stick a strong magnet (dead hard drive is a great source) onto the sump plug. Drive for a while and then change the oil.

The steel bits will have stuck into the brass plug.

If there's nothing significant there, then Ad is right.
as landy ads said most likely interlocks locking due to weak detent spring /stuck ball or one shaft has rotated slightly,as reverse gear is achieved by sliding reverse idler into mesh with layshaft and synchrohub teeth,if slector shaft are not aligned gear cant be selected
 
ok, thanks for the advice, i will remove the top cover tomorrow and investigate, however, ever since i bought the recon? box from norwich it has alaways jumped out of reverse gear when reversing, so even if i get it to engage i am pretty sure it will still jump out of gear.
 
rev can be adjusted to ensure selector shaft/jaw sit straight and rev sits in mesh properly when selected and also clears when out of mesh using pinch bolt on fork ,its also know problem with new needle bearings in rev idler ,original had a slight twist so needles sat at slight angle to shaft which helped keep hold gear in, in new ones are straight
 
hi james, i have removed the top and can engage reverse with my fingers with the selector removed, it wasnt the interlock pins and balls preventing it, still dont know exactly why but there is wear on diagonally opposite sides of the selector fork which i would guess is not sitting square. the needle roller bearings in the reverse gear appear straight. i will continue to try and find out what is wrong, does anybody know if new reverse selector forks are available, it has a part no. frc1815st on it
 
you only need one shaft to be slightly out of alignment when shifting to another gear to lock shafts undoing everything would cure it without you realising
 
Irritatingly, both.
Sometimes it'll stay in reverse gear, other times it'll pop out, and sounds like a bag of nails when it's running in rev.

Most of the time It won't disengage unless I double de-clutch or pop it out while still rolling. yanking on the lever it feels "blocked". I reckon the ****er who "reconditioned" the box before me, either didn't fit a new bearing (or bush??), or borked the whole assy. wouldn't surprise me, TBH-judging by the quality of "repairs" so far.

I had a peek at the selectors a few weeks back, but couldn't see owt untoward.

Only way to tell, is to pull the box apart, and i've only just got It all back together!
 
sounds like teeth on rev idler and or layshaft ,and 1st 2nd synchro hub are worn /chipped sometimes all three sometimes just rev idler,all the jaws have to be inline fairly accurately and upright other wise interlocks can jam
 
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