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Replacing the rear tub to crossmember support rail.

Discussion in 'Defender 90 / 110 / 130' started by the_wolf, Apr 1, 2021.

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  1. Turboman

    Turboman Rural Activist

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    I think that is why it is usual to lift the whole tub off. Avoid damage, and possible injury if the tub slips off the jack while you are working underneath.
    When I have done it before, we lifted the whole tub, and carried it backwards, placing it on blocks on the ground while we dealt with the chassis issues.
     
  2. Beneagles

    Beneagles Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Yep, makes sense when doing major works, but I think Wolfie just wants to raise the rear edge a couple or three inches, slide the rail in, and get it back down as quickly as possible.
    :)
     
  3. Turboman

    Turboman Rural Activist

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    It may work, although I have not seen it done. Having gone to the trouble of unbolting all the stuff, I would be keen to have a look underneath.
    Especially at the area of the upper rear crossmember, often a rot spot.
     
  4. seanlandy

    seanlandy Active Member

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    Should end up like this. I took mine off at the weekend. Not that many bolts. More on the seat box section.
     

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  5. the_wolf

    the_wolf Well-Known Member

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    I could do with replacing all of the floor struts and top hat parts but that's another job for another time, I don't want to go down the route of taking it off the road for a long period and ploughing money into it again. I do have a list of jobs as long as my arm to be working on and the rear body corrosion is one I've been putting off. I do need to replace both rear outriggers at some point so maybe then I'll remove the tub but for now it's just getting lifted a little and the new rail slid into place
     
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  6. the_wolf

    the_wolf Well-Known Member

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    Looks like that rear outrigger replacement may be much much sooner than I anticipated. The bolts holding the body onto the mount have been an absolute pain in the **** to get out. After trying for three nights I've managed to remove 3 from one side but in the process my outrigger is starting to look a little skeletal lol
     
  7. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Aye, it's a bugger once you start mate. I'll refer you back to my post #23 :( Everything is fixable though :)
     
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  8. the_wolf

    the_wolf Well-Known Member

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    Last time I thought right I'll take it off the road a bit and I'll fix this then I'll fix this it ended up snowballing, was off the road for a year and before I knew it I'd fitted a galv bulkhead, welded the chassis, fitted a new roof, rebuilt the engine etc... lol. New outriggers ordered so the old ones are just getting cut off and I'm not wasting time messing around with those bolts again. I'll get this rear support rail fitted at some bloody point!
     
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  9. the_wolf

    the_wolf Well-Known Member

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    For the curious this is the remains of my rear outrigger. Nowt but rust holding that up :|
     

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  10. Turboman

    Turboman Rural Activist

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    How are the bottoms of the supports of the upper rear crossmember looking?

    Take a screwdriver, and poke into the bit in front of the upright. If it goes through, they are fairly easy to plate while you have the rear body off.
     
  11. the_wolf

    the_wolf Well-Known Member

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    What parts do you mean and I'll have a look. I'm pretty sure I'll find a lot more rust but what I don't know can't stress me lol
     
  12. Turboman

    Turboman Rural Activist

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    Upper rear crossmember, almost above the axle. There are uprights that attach it to the top of the chassis, and the plates that brace them are a perfect rust trap. MOT fail, testers often don't spot it, but if one does, it is a lot of work to rectify.

    Quit easy to plate with the body off, though.
     
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  13. the_wolf

    the_wolf Well-Known Member

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    Just to add to this that replacing the rear tub support turned into a much bigger job where I ended up replacing both rear outriggers and the body mounts too. Lifting the tub up once it was unbolted did make my arsehole twitch a bit! but once I'd managed to wangle the support rail into place, drop it back down and bolt it all together it does look a lot better. No more corroded rear end plus I got a good bit more work done than I'd planned. Just a million and one other things to go...
     
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  14. Dr Strangeglove

    Dr Strangeglove Member

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    Well done Wolf. I sometimes wonder why some of the designs are like they are - it's like the design team were funded by the ministry of bad ideas! But then I look at my K reg 90 and I am amazed when I see a vehicle of a similar age on the road. Our vehicles are in the main working classic cars.

    I am struggling getting the fill/level plug out of my swivel. Whilst applying plusgas I decided I would take my bumper off - I am sure you can understand what happened! IMG_20210502_122436073.jpg
     
  15. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    My MOT man while he does mot's on classic cars, you know the types that do a couple of hundred miles per year, he says my 1990 truck is by some way the oldest working vehicle he sees.
    Good bit of weight reduction going on there Strangeglove.:D
     
  16. Dr Strangeglove

    Dr Strangeglove Member

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    Yep, just a bit. I need to do some further investigation to see the affected area and make good to suit. I have some 100x50 box section off-cuts so I will fab something up from them. In time it will be a new chassis, but for now just a make good repair (though I will do it properly). If anyone has any decent links to defender dumb-iron replacement, please let me know.
     
  17. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    If I were doing that job I would not bother replacing the bit at the bottom where you are supposed to fit the supplied [ when new ] Land rover jack [ rubbish thing ] Just weld in some box section the bumper would fit over [ normal nuts and bolts not those plates would work now like a series] and drill holes for a couple of jate rings low down on the box .
     
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