Replacing swivels on series I

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T

Tony Boyle

Guest
Me again, having done the transfer box seals I want to sort out the leaky
swivel seals on my series 1. I have all the bits and it seems fairly
straight forward. One question I have is about the steering arms which are
on the top on a series I but bottom on later series vehicles. I assume when
converting a series I to Raiko bushes the steering arms remain on the top
and need the splined pin pushing out and replacing with a wider pin for the
raiko bush? I just wondered if they were designed to take the strain imposed
by the steering effort working through them rather than the bearings on the
bottom. Also how are they lubricated? The manual says use the same spec oil
as the swivel I assume this is just applied to the cavity in the bush?

Thanks for any advice.

Tony Boyle


 

"Tony Boyle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Me again, having done the transfer box seals I want to sort out the leaky
> swivel seals on my series 1. I have all the bits and it seems fairly
> straight forward. One question I have is about the steering arms which are
> on the top on a series I but bottom on later series vehicles. I assume

when
> converting a series I to Raiko bushes the steering arms remain on the top
> and need the splined pin pushing out and replacing with a wider pin for

the
> raiko bush?


Yes, just as you say, it will also be very tight, you will need a press,
if you just try to hammer them in you will spread and damage them.
There is a small pin cross drilled in the housing and also through the
pin, I suppose to stop the pin turning in the housing when turning the
splined tapered damper but they are so tight I wouldn't think it is
necessary and certainly not with the new Railko type but they will be in the
kit if you want to fit them.

I just wondered if they were designed to take the strain imposed
> by the steering effort working through them rather than the bearings on

the
> bottom.


The bottom bearings take all the weight and the top pins are probably
stronger than the originals as they are seated on a shoulder which will
resist the applied shear force better.

Also how are they lubricated? The manual says use the same spec oil
> as the swivel I assume this is just applied to the cavity in the bush?
>


I usually set the preload with the shims then lift the top pin and apply a
little grease to top pin and bottom bearing before final assembly, though
this is not necessary as the halfshaft U/J throws E.P 90 to the whole
assembly. If you've got free wheeling hubs fitted don't forget to put them
in fixed for a couple of miles every couple of weeks or so or you will be
fitting new Railko bushes every year for the M.O.T test.

> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Tony Boyle
>
>


HTH Martin


 
Thanks for that advice, I have just spotted the small hole in the raiko bush
where it obviously gets lubricated. They do seem a very tight fit into the
chrome swivel though, can you just push the raiko bushes into the top round
hole or is some form of cunning persuasion needed? Maybe if I warm the
swivel ball up a bit it will take the bush better?

Cheers

Tony


 

"Tony Boyle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for that advice, I have just spotted the small hole in the raiko

bush
> where it obviously gets lubricated.


Not just the hole, it is flooded with oil thrown round the top outer edge,
inside the outer housing through the gap.

They do seem a very tight fit into the
> chrome swivel though, can you just push the raiko bushes into the top

round
> hole or is some form of cunning persuasion needed? Maybe if I warm the
> swivel ball up a bit it will take the bush better?
>


If you remove the swivel ball from the axle to replace the large seal you
can press in the Railko bush whilst you have it free of the axle, that's the
best way, but you can knock it in with a suitable large socket whilst still
on the axle. *Not* recommended though, they can easily be damaged. Make
sure it is seated properly.

Martin.


 
On Fri, 02 Jun 2006 22:31:36 +0100, Oily wrote:

>
> "Tony Boyle" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Thanks for that advice, I have just spotted the small hole in the raiko

> bush
>> where it obviously gets lubricated.

>
> Not just the hole, it is flooded with oil thrown round the top outer edge,
> inside the outer housing through the gap.
>
> They do seem a very tight fit into the
>> chrome swivel though, can you just push the raiko bushes into the top

> round
>> hole or is some form of cunning persuasion needed? Maybe if I warm the
>> swivel ball up a bit it will take the bush better?
>>

>
> If you remove the swivel ball from the axle to replace the large seal you
> can press in the Railko bush whilst you have it free of the axle, that's the
> best way, but you can knock it in with a suitable large socket whilst still
> on the axle. *Not* recommended though, they can easily be damaged. Make
> sure it is seated properly.
>
> Martin.


Last time I did the swivels, the swivels went in the oven on low and the
bearing shell and bush went in the freezer, dead easy to drop them in if
you work fast.

Eddie
--

If you don't know who's watching the watchmen.
The watchmen are raiding the warehouse!

 
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