Replacing my td5 brakes

Replacing my td5 90 brakes this weekend. I've got sticky calipers so replacing the lot, I have bought:

110 front discs (terrafirma drilled/grooved)
Green stuff pads
110 front caliper
90 rear disc (terrafirma as above)
Green stuff pads
Rear caliper 90
Extended +2 brake lines

I'm fitting the brake lines as I'm going to fit a lift kit, probably OME +30mm springs and +5" shocks in the near future.

Any tips? Have I got the right bits!?

Thanks

Personally, I wouldn't have gone with drilled discs as they munch through pads at the first sign of mud.

Cover all the bolts you are going to remove with lots of WD40 and do the job next weekend!!

If your going as far as changing the discs, i would replace the hub seal. Youll also need drive memeber gaskets! While your at it give the wheel bearings some TLC. Probs allready know this but you need a 12 point 13mm socket for the calipers IIRC.

Yep a good 13 mm 12 point socket or a 1/2 inch even better
Defo do the hub seals ul be disappointed if u develop a leak afterwards
Grease the wheel bearings and check for pitting or grey
It's always worth keeping a pair of wheel bearings on ya shelf incase
Don't over tighten the drive member bolts too it's all too easy to snap them
Good luck

Is all of the above relevant to td5? I thought the hubs were different? It's a 2006 model, thought the change was in 99?

Thanks!!!!

The wheel bearings are the same but shimmed differently with a tolerance spacer in between the inner and outer bearings
You can convert back to the old method but let's not complicate your situ
Yes the above applies you have to remove the hub unit to remove the discs
Ah yes don't forget you'll need a 9/16 12 point socket for the bolts holding the disc to the hub and be prepared to have to be rough to get the disc off but careful not to damage the hub and wheel studs

This sounds like a nightmare!

Why are land rovers that much more complicated than any normal car?

They are not complicated, its just like all things they sound complicated until you do them, then you wonder what all the fuss was about.
Just pull it to bits they really are simple, start with a rear wheel first.
May be worth putting your location and someone may offer to help?

Galvernisednuts said:

The wheel bearings are the same but shimmed differently with a tolerance spacer in between the inner and outer bearings
You can convert back to the old method but let's not complicate your situ
Yes the above applies you have to remove the hub unit to remove the discs
Ah yes don't forget you'll need a 9/16 12 point socket for the bolts holding the disc to the hub and be prepared to have to be rough to get the disc off but careful not to damage the hub and wheel studs

Click to expand...

14mm is correct size ,9/16 may work but you run the risk of rounding bolt head

I did my rear discs,calipers and pads a month ago. Got all the advice and pictorial guides from a quick search here on LZ and had no real problems. Did get a terrible brake squeal which seems to have gone now that I have fitted genuine LR pads. Mines a 2002 TD5 Defender 90.

9/16 is the correct size it's a tighter fit than 14mm which is more likely to strip it
Lots of bits on defenders are still old school imperial

Galvernisednuts said:

9/16 is the correct size it's a tighter fit than 14mm

Click to expand...

no it isnt, 1/2 inch is tighter than 13mm but 9/16 is slightly bigger than 14mm,

Whatever?????

Galvernisednuts said:

Whatever?????

Click to expand...

im not been awkward its a fact ,its usually best to use the best socket

True fair point, I've maybe been a lucky lad then I've used 9/16 every time lol

I did mine a couple of months ago. New discs, pads, rebuilt callipers with new pistons and seals to all 4 wheels. Examined and repacked wheel bearings and replaced all the brake pipes. Finished off with rebuilding the master cylinder. It's all very doable and straight foreword. The only real problem I had was I had to have three goes at bleeding the brakes to get a solid pedal..

Top tip with bleed nipple undone or pipe loosened at start of work carefully press brake pedal to the floor and wedge it there fully depressed
This will shut off further fluid loss and save more air being drawn in
There's nowt worse than fluid dripping as you work

Stated doing this today.

In all honesty, it's not as complicated as I thought it was going to be, the main difficulty being that every bolt is corroded/seize on! The most difficult part was separating the disc from the hub, all bolts siezed and no vice at home, that's at work!

One thing that I didn't expect was for the pad retaining clips/springs (rear) and pins to be so tight to get in! That's either EBC pads or ****part calipers for you!

Doing the fronts tomorrow, replace the brake hoses and then bleed the whole system!

Will update when complete, thanks for the assistance and pointers so far.

It's probably too late now, but to hold the hub still while you undo the disc bolts try putting it in one of the wheels that you'll have lying around.
Here's me doing pretty much the same thing about 18 months ago
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/browns-brake-rebuild-thread-220055.html
Interestingly, the pads seem to be wearing really well despite the grooved discs. But I'm very rarely in mud over the axles. They've gone from very tight in the calliper to the point where you can just see the pistons peeping out, over about 18,000 miles. At this rate I'll be drawing my pension before they wear out.