Replacing Clutch What Else

Hi folks, I’m having some work done on my 1998 Defender 300tdi gearbox so while its out lm also replacing the clutch. I’ve read that it’s a good idea to replace the clutch release fork, but what else would you guys recommend replacing while the box is out. From what I can see on the net there’s a clutch bearing guide pivot and dowels and other bits and pieces, also any advice on brands would also be very much appreciated.

Check the pillar,the bit the fork pivots on,when I changed mine when I found it had worn into a bit of a point. Not a cheap part so if still nice and spherical should be ok.Use a strengthend fork and new release bearing.

I will check the pillar but my Defender is fairly low mileage so hopefully it’ll be fine, I’ll also source a strengthened fork, clutch kit comes with a new bearing so that’ll be OK thanks for your reply

Don’t forget spigot bush if it’s not in your kit.

tottot said:

Check the pillar,the bit the fork pivots on,when I changed mine when I found it had worn into a bit of a point. Not a cheap part so if still nice and spherical should be ok.Use a strengthend fork and new release bearing.

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I have just bought one from paddocks as mine had worn ridges into itself. Compare to an oem clutch kit it is fairly cheap. About £15. So we’ll worth doing.
Definitly replace the ford for an hd version (although you can weld a plat across the back of a standard one to make your own hd version). If you get the cork kit it should
Come with new clips for the push rod and slipper pads for the fork itself. When refitting put a cable tie around the plastic clip for the pushrod sonic you ever have to swap the slave you won’t pull the rod out as well.
Other than that spigot bush and release bearing as already meantioned.

That is about it in terms of internals but while is is all off youvery easy access and the opportunity to easily replace other parts if needed. Clutch slave, gearbox mounts, exhaust centre pipe,

Check the slave cyl, pull back dust cover and see if any leaks. Flexi for any cracks.

Check rear crank oil seal for leaks. Cheap and easy job while it's apart.

The little slipper pads that go on the end of the clutch release fork can wear, both on the pad area and the hole that engages with the fork.

Rougharse Racing said:

The little slipper pads that go on the end of the clutch release fork can wear, both on the pad area and the hole that engages with the fork.

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If you buy the clutch fork kit they should be included. Mine were slightly more than a little worn!

Get a heavy duty clutch fork, basically a reinforced one.