replacement bulkhead

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

sprie

Active Member
Posts
171
My plan was to
1) get new Richards chassis in place, sort out wheels, brakes and suspension
2) get replacement bulkhead in place (as old one would need every panel rebuilt!)
3) rebuild gearbox and install
4) get engine re-bored, rebuilt and installed
5) the rest.

I have done 1).
My plan has gone awry. I was going to get a bulkhead from Richards, but there is a big delay.

So I either get a bulkhead from elsewhere or i change my plan.

From what i can see, I could get a bulkhead from:
1) Robert Owen (but I believe they have a similar long lead time)
2) Shielder (£1.6k)
3) Pegasus (£2.6k)

My aim is to get my Landy working well, and as reasonably close to how i got it (original-ish) as I can, but i am not aiming for concours.

Any advice appreciated?
 
is the chassis really un-serviceable? or can you patch it up to a suitable level while you do other works? then transfer everything in one go when you get a new chassis?
from experience, i would say it will be easier to replace the bulkhead on its own to get everything lined up again. I've done a complete strip and it was really hard making things fit
 
is the chassis really un-serviceable? or can you patch it up to a suitable level while you do other works? then transfer everything in one go when you get a new chassis?
from experience, i would say it will be easier to replace the bulkhead on its own to get everything lined up again. I've done a complete strip and it was really hard making things fit
I have replaced the chassis, have the nice new one from Richards in place. Old one is cut up into a rusty pile.
 
I have replaced the chassis, have the nice new one from Richards in place. Old one is cut up into a rusty pile.

Some peeps say to keep the dumb iron bit with the chassis number on.

Maer does a nice stainless steel bulkhead too, the price seems good :)

J
 
Some peeps say to keep the dumb iron bit with the chassis number on.

Maer does a nice stainless steel bulkhead too, the price seems good :)

J
I teaped the original number back onto the new chassis, did keep the original bit for nostalgic reasons
 
I teaped the original number back onto the new chassis, did keep the original bit for nostalgic reasons

I goggled teaped and I don't think you put a cup of tea on or in your chassis, so guessing you mean tapped/stamped.
Which is sort of wrong too ;) .
But I whole heartily agree with giving it an identifiable number for its future safety, Chassis manufacturer should do it for trace ability it wouldn't take much

J
 
I goggled teaped and I don't think you put a cup of tea on or in your chassis, so guessing you mean tapped/stamped.
Which is sort of wrong too ;) .
But I whole heartily agree with giving it an identifiable number for its future safety, Chassis manufacturer should do it for trace ability it wouldn't take much

J
Teaps a local name for metal stamps, always known them as teaps.
Anyway since the chassis is a spare part available from LR and it is allowed to change it as long as it is not modified under DVLA rules I cannot see how it would be a problem.
Its the equivalent of a VIN plate and this is behind the rad on mine so they should match.
Personally I can't say I lose sleep over it, its not as if its visible unless you look for it but I know its there.
 
Teaps a local name for metal stamps, always known them as teaps.
Anyway since the chassis is a spare part available from LR and it is allowed to change it as long as it is not modified under DVLA rules I cannot see how it would be a problem.
Its the equivalent of a VIN plate and this is behind the rad on mine so they should match.
Personally I can't say I lose sleep over it, its not as if its visible unless you look for it but I know its there.

And I totally agree.
We all know how secure those VIN plates are too, and how easy they are to change ;).
Its the security aspect for me (well not here but UK for sure) So I am surprised the chassis manufacturers don't give an Identifying number, and as its like for like DVLA should accept the change on the V5.
Or is that far to sensible🤔

J
 
....but back to my question, where is the best place to get a bulkhead?

Do you need it now, like yesterday?
Or willing to wait a bit? (how long) The SS seem to be out of stock at the moment but that's a hell of a price.

Oh and so we waffle a bit ;) , but check the waffle there's good info in there to.

J
 
....but back to my question, where is the best place to get a bulkhead?

I fitted a shielder bulkhead on my rebuild but wasn't too impressed with the finish.

Fitting wise it was okay, but various holes out of place or not tapped as you'd expect them to be. Clearly old vehicles and new parts aren't going to marry up perfectly but I expected better and have heard reviews of similar from others using shielder.
 
Pegasus is near me and I've seen their bulkheads. I can't vouch of their accuracy but they look excellent and knowing Paul (and his father) I'd be staggered if they weren't perfect. Herruva lorra money though.
 
In the end, i have found a second hand bulkhead from someone local, and it just needs a bit of work on it to make it OK.
 
I have bought 2 bulkheads from Robert owen in the last 3 years and fitted them to Richards chassis. They are perfectly matched to that chassis and I would highly recommend them despite the wait. I had to do absolutely no fettling or alterations.
 
My plan was to
1) get new Richards chassis in place, sort out wheels, brakes and suspension
2) get replacement bulkhead in place (as old one would need every panel rebuilt!)
3) rebuild gearbox and install
4) get engine re-bored, rebuilt and installed
5) the rest.

I have done 1).
My plan has gone awry. I was going to get a bulkhead from Richards, but there is a big delay.

So I either get a bulkhead from elsewhere or i change my plan.

From what i can see, I could get a bulkhead from:
1) Robert Owen (but I believe they have a similar long lead time)
2) Shielder (£1.6k)
3) Pegasus (£2.6k)

My aim is to get my Landy working well, and as reasonably close to how i got it (original-ish) as I can, but i am not aiming for concours.

Any advice appreciated?
I've just fitted a Shielder bulkhead to my 1972 Series 3. Some rippling in places from galvanising, but the bulkhead is straight enough and everything has aligned ok without too much fettling. I'll second someone else's comments about holes; some missing where they should be e.g. on the inboard side of the steering box bracket and on the inboard side of the heater matrix unit and some extra bonus ones which I have filled or plugged with grommets. I like that they have used thicker steel in the footwells and happy that I've invested in a galv bulkhead (I have a Richards chassis too) rather than repairing my doggy 50y.o. one yet again. Lead time was about 8 weeks I think but I had to hassle them a lot and I felt that I was getting the runaround a lot of the time. Overall, I'm happy though and I can't blame Shielder for my painting...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5391.jpeg
    IMG_5391.jpeg
    323.5 KB · Views: 64
  • IMG_5404.jpeg
    IMG_5404.jpeg
    423.6 KB · Views: 72
A later Defender colour, I used a synthetic enamel but thinned it down a touch with white spirit and hand painted gave a nice shiny colour with no brush marks, agree far too cold for painting unless you got a heated garage
 
Back
Top