Disco 2 Replaced head new problems

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ldrego

Active Member
Posts
394
Location
Edinburgh
I have just had the head on my 03 disco replaced. The head has been tested before.fitting. Since fitting, the car struggles to fire up when cold, taking up to 30 seconds to start. The garage has told me to check to see if the fuel regulator is leaking which I will do tomorrow.
They had switched the head earlier that week for one that they had believed was working bur it was ropey.
Any other thoughts before I go out into the cold. Fuel filter was replaced too.
Thanks in advance.
Oh the car starts better once it has ran for a while.
 
Did they fit the injectors in the same order? , also the glow plugs were verified? though based on the following statement
They had switched the head earlier that week for one that they had believed was working bur it was ropey.
i have serious doubts about theyr reliability
 
I have just had the head on my 03 disco replaced. The head has been tested before.fitting. Since fitting, the car struggles to fire up when cold, taking up to 30 seconds to start. The garage has told me to check to see if the fuel regulator is leaking which I will do tomorrow.
They had switched the head earlier that week for one that they had believed was working bur it was ropey.
Any other thoughts before I go out into the cold. Fuel filter was replaced too.
Thanks in advance.
Oh the car starts better once it has ran for a while.
Fuel Regulator... i.e regulates fuel not to do with cold start. How long have you ran it for ?
 
New glow plugs were fitted at the same time. I prices the problem within 30 miles of driving it. I have driven say, a total of 60 miles,
I am thinking, leaking injector seals if they have been reused copper washers. I would imagine, that would give me, diesel in the oil or oil in the diesel respectively. Is that right?
 
injector o-rings would let fuel in oil that's all and leaking copper washers would let combustion gasses into the fuel rail mixing up the whole fuel delivery system = starting and running issues... copper washers are not something to be reused after once fitted and injectors torqued on them, not even if they were fitted new to that faulty head then removed without running the engine... my doubts about those mechanics are becoming more serious... what about that question about the injector's order?
 
New washers and seals were used and torqued down. chap says that the only thing that has changed is the head so it has to be the heads he is going to look at it again this week. Have to say he is not ditching ownership of the problem which is very,good.
 
if the head was changed it means the injectors were swapped too... i insist, were they fitted in the same order? cos the codes are stored in the ECU in a certain way, mixing the positions of the injectors will mix up the management
 
Do you think that could be the case? That would be some error to have been made. Is it difficult to reprogram these using the lynx? Could I tell if they are in the right order with the lynx?
 
if the head was changed it means the injectors were swapped too... i insist, were they fitted in the same order? cos the codes are stored in the ECU in a certain way, mixing the positions of the injectors will mix up the management
But that wouldn't make it difficult to start, it just fine tunes the injector tolerances
 
I've seen cases when it did, and it idled as sh*t too, i'm not saying that's the case here but it's good to be ruled out anyway, you can't check with tester unless you remove the cover and see what code is on the solenoid and what's stored in the ECU, just ask them if they took care of that or not they should know what they did...if you have lynx didnt you find any fault codes stored? put ignition on and read the fuel temp live data and engine speed while cranking ... is there black smoke after it starts?
 
But that wouldn't make it difficult to start, it just fine tunes the injector tolerances
Id agree with that. My injectors were rebuilt and the codes probably dont mean much now, one was also replaced.
I haven't changed anything in the ECU yet, but she starts first turn and no smoke at all.
BUT initial starting after the rebuild did need 5xfull purge cycle and lots of cranking.
Have you checked your battery? Lots of info on here about cranking pulling the voltage down, also check the CPS wiring is ok, also a "noisy" starter can affect the CPS signal giving bad starting.
If there was something wrong with the head, IMO it would be a problem whether the car was hot or cold.
Mark
 
if you need any parts mate i have a full running disco 2 TD5 here , starts instantly and is able to be tested for peice of mind , what was the reason you head was swapped? cooked or diesel in oil?
 
I'll run the lynx on it tomorrow when I get a moment. On a long shot, the fuel has been allowed to run to the reserve. It's been topped up now and it seems to be starting a little better, is it possible that crap blocking the fuel lines could have caused the symptoms?
 
its a 10p engine but has had the metal dowels fitted , cracking engine , instant starting , clean oil and no smoke :) , if you need anything else give me a shout as its still complete so all parts there at the moment
 
I'll run the lynx on it tomorrow when I get a moment. On a long shot, the fuel has been allowed to run to the reserve. It's been topped up now and it seems to be starting a little better, is it possible that crap blocking the fuel lines could have caused the symptoms?
run a purging sequence on it, 6 consecutive full throttles with ignition on II then wait untill the MIL stops flashing... and replace the air bleed valve in the filter head's rear outer port(WJN500110)...then purge again
 
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