Series 3 Replaced all the swivels and bearings now the steering is worse a little help please.

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bultacobob

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I replaced all of the steering parts, swivels seals bearings and track rod ends/track rods with decent branded parts ( the swivels were used ex army and in good condition along with stub axels).

So before all this I had a little wandering but it got better the faster you went. Now however the opposite is true and by 45mph it weaves and wanders from side to side so badly that slowing down is the only option.

Everything set to spec, wheels swapped (radials), and still the same. The steering relay only has a pull of about 9lbs which I know is just below spec. The steering box only has about an inch or so of play. However the steering wheel on full lock feels like it resisting against a large spring for about a 1/4 turn beyond the wheels stopping turning, is this normal? I would have thought there would be more positive stopping feel on full lock and I am wondering, is this is the problem area but I just can find the cause. All brackets and bolts seem tight. I Would really appreciate any input from a more seasoned veteran Land Rover owner.

(The front axle and brakes are the later TWL and engine swap to 200tdi.)
 
Have you tried changing the car. :p

I’ve no idea what the problem is but it sure dunt sound right. I know they can be a pig to get solid. Luckily I have yet to have any problems.
 
Swivel pre load set, steering stops set, the toe in only set buy the book as the FWH stopped the local garage from tracking as their machine would not fit. If any one can shed further light on the springy steering at both ends of the lock I would be grateful, I think this might be a big clue as to what is going on. So if your steering feels solid on the full lock please can you let me know.
 
No springiness in mine. Have you checked the spring bushes condition, tightness of the shackles etc. and the axle/spring clamps? Wondering about the whole axle moving. Also concerned that the steering box adjustment may be too tight.
 
I have the same springiness on both sides of full lock, I did find that by slightly over tightening the steering box that the wandering a low speeds got better/more manageable. To counter this I am now going to set the swivels to the max of 10lbs instead of 8lbs. The relay is below spec at 8lbs, so that hellish job will be tackled. The old swivels had filled with water and rusted out the lower bearings, They were very stiff and pulling at around 16 to 18 lbs but as I said it did travel in a straight line and got better the faster it went.
Just to add, tightening or loosening the steering box had no effect on the steering springiness on full lock. I will also now check the shackle's as I did notice that have a double nut on them, which probably means someone has had a problem in the past or was being over cautious. It is fitted with parabolic springs.
Thanks for the input and feed back on how the steering wheel should feel. My last land rover (series 3 ex military) was over 30 years ago, when I just drove it and it never gave a moments trouble, I would travel to work every day and I kid you not, I would sit on the M3 at a steady 70mph, add to that it was a diesel. I think I just got lucky and assumed they were all brilliant.
 
Thank you, that's just the conclusion I have come to. Looking back when replacing everything and setting the steering to centre (with everything disconnected) which was 4 turns lock to lock. I remember now there was always that last springy feeling when the steering felt it stopped but the wheel continued to move about an 8th of a turn then sprang back. I have just retrieved an old steering box which seems to have no play and actually stops with no additional movement. Admittedly I can't get the leverage of the steering wheel on it, but the early signs look good. It is also starting to look a bit like the supports on the box might be the cause allowing it to flex. I did check but fairly superficially as all seemed ok. This would be a good start as putting in a replacement box seems difficult although the manual make it sound straight forward. I cant find to much on this, a video would be good. But at this stage I might be getting ahead of myself.
 
Could the springiness be the tyres rubbing on the springs and giving a little. Make sure the stop bolts hit before the tyres do.
 
Thanks for the input, I have set this up and they aren't touching anywhere on full lock. It would have been a very plausible explanation, I know it is the simple things that we tend to overlook.
 
bultacobob said:
Thanks for the input, I have set this up and they aren't touching anywhere on full lock. It would have been a very plausible explanation, I know it is the simple things that we tend to overlook.
Click to expand...
Have you checked the front wheel alignment?

And carefully examined the wheels and tyres themselves?

A buckled wheel, or a tyre with a big bulge in the carcass, can be alarming to drive.
 
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Local garage could not align the wheels as the FWH's put it out of there machines setting. I did set the new track rod width to the land rover specs but that is not as good as getting properly checked. I I did run a new set of defender wheels with radials on and it was actually a bit worse. I am beginning to suspect the steering box and will have a proper check when I can get someone to help by moving the steering wheel.
 
Thank you for the advice I will make that a priority, and pray for a transformation!!!!
I threw the old rusty track rod out at the tip before realising I should have a least used it as a guide.
 
Last edited:
bultacobob said:
Thank you for the advice I will make that a priority, and pray for a transformation!!!!
I threw the old rusty track rod out at the tip before realising I should have a least used it as a guide.
Click to expand...
Try and find a garage that has the old style rods for setting tracking.
You can improvise with long bits of wood and measurements, it helps if you have a level floor or concrete area to do this.
 
Planks of wood with some packers nailed on. Its a right faff but it works and best bit is you can take as long as you like to check and adjust.
 
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