P38A Replace water pump

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Salisbury Nick

Salisbury Nick

Well-Known Member
Posts
784
Location
Dorchester
Hi all. The saga continues. Water pump disintegrated at the weekend. Have already been advised to replace with a metal one.

Before I consult RAVE - and I’m sure after and during the process - any one got any tips for me on this process?

Do I need to take the front of the car off?

Should i move the oil cooler radiator at the same time?

It’s a 2000 model 2.5D

Cheers

Nick
 
I can't remember if Rave tell you to remove the radiator. If it doesnt then remove the rad as it gives you more room to work and saves it from damage if you slip. plus you need some additional bolts to pull the pump out,, make sure you have these on hand.
 
EntropyUK said:
I can't remember if Rave tell you to remove the radiator. If it doesnt then remove the rad as it gives you more room to work and saves it from damage if you slip. plus you need some additional bolts to pull the pump out,, make sure you have these on hand.
Click to expand...
Ahh. Useful to know. Thanks.
This is exactly why I love this forum. So much useful information that is not in the manual.
Any idea what sort or do i just figure that out when i get to it?
 
take fan and shroud off drain rad then remove bolts from water pump, use two of those bolts in the threaded holes on the pump to push it off. Fish out all the plastic bits clean aperture then fit new pump . Refit fan and shroud fill rad then top passenger side hose with water/antifreeze . run engine keep tpppin up with water
 
tarphenry said:
take fan and shroud off drain rad then remove bolts from water pump, use two of those bolts in the threaded holes on the pump to push it off. Fish out all the plastic bits clean aperture then fit new pump . Refit fan and shroud fill rad then top passenger side hose with water/antifreeze . run engine keep tpppin up with water
Click to expand...
Awesome. Thanks. This sounds like it can be done without removing the rad first?
 
No need to remove rad although RAVE says to do so. Clean O'ring seat in head. Smear a little Hylomar around O'ring and O'ring seat in head. Assemble whilst Hylomar is still wet and refit and torque bolts. 10 Nm or 7 lb ft no more. From fully run up this a slight nip with a spanner if you don't have torque gear. They can snap like carrots.
 
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wammers said:
No need to remove rad although RAVE says to do so. Clean O'ring seat in head. Smear a little Hylomar around O'ring and O'ring seat in head. Assemble whilst Hylomar is still wet and refit and torque bolts. 10 Nm or 7 lb ft no more. From fully run up this a slight nip with a spanner if you don't have torque gear. They can snap like carrots.
Click to expand...
You may also like to check the heater pipe O ring while you've got the pump off, see if its leaking And replace if necessary, bloody expensive for what it is.
 
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A HD metal one is much cheaper then OE, plastic is fine, main advantage is no bits to break up.
As Data said make sure you get all the bits out of it shattered, I (copied Grrrrr? and) stuck it back together like a jigsaw to be sure it was all there.

Beware pictures of a gray-plastic pump, one guy here got awful upset when he ordered it thinking it was a metal one :D
 
Thanks all. I have ordered a metal one from Island4x4 - so hopefully it will be.
I have a torque wrench so no excuses for snapping the bolts.
How do I get to it properly without removing radiator? Is it one of those occasions where you can do it without removing the rad - but its much easier of you do?
Nick
 
Salisbury Nick said:
Thanks all. I have ordered a metal one from Island4x4 - so hopefully it will be.
I have a torque wrench so no excuses for snapping the bolts.
How do I get to it properly without removing radiator? Is it one of those occasions where you can do it without removing the rad - but its much easier of you do?
Nick
Click to expand...

Depends how new your rad is. It is tight in there and you don't want to damage the cooling fins. If they're already flattened a bit then might as well go for it.

@rrdt - not me. Never failed on me yet.
 
If you are familiar leave it in. It is easier to see what’s what if you take it out, not big a job as it seems but as mentioned it depends if it’s fragile or not.

I had to change rad anyhow as when my pump blew @ 138,000 odd miles it ejected through the recently fitted new rad :(
1st new rad was a good one, 2nd time I fitted Br**part as all I could afford, made it lot easier with it out although I was weary as with manual transmission I didn’t want to disturb the oil pipes too much

Pump bolts aren’t to tight, just be gentle.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
If you are familiar leave it in. It is easier to see what’s what if you take it out, not big a job as it seems but as mentioned it depends if it’s fragile or not.

I had to change rad anyhow as when my pump blew @ 138,000 odd miles it ejected through the recently fitted new rad :(
1st new rad was a good one, 2nd time I fitted Br**part as all I could afford, made it lot easier with it out although I was weary as with manual transmission I didn’t want to disturb the oil pipes too much

Pump bolts aren’t to tight, just be gentle.
Click to expand...

That's a valid point. If a manual leave the rad in because the gearbox oil cooler pipes will almost certainly have seized. Now I think about it that's why I ended up with a new rad!
 
RangeRoller dt said:
If you are familiar leave it in. It is easier to see what’s what if you take it out, not big a job as it seems but as mentioned it depends if it’s fragile or not.

I had to change rad anyhow as when my pump blew @ 138,000 odd miles it ejected through the recently fitted new rad :(
1st new rad was a good one, 2nd time I fitted Br**part as all I could afford, made it lot easier with it out although I was weary as with manual transmission I didn’t want to disturb the oil pipes too much

Pump bolts aren’t to tight, just be gentle.
Click to expand...
A bit of heat on the bolt heads always helps.
 
Salisbury Nick said:
Thanks all. I have ordered a metal one from Island4x4 - so hopefully it will be.
I have a torque wrench so no excuses for snapping the bolts.
How do I get to it properly without removing radiator? Is it one of those occasions where you can do it without removing the rad - but its much easier of you do?
Nick
Click to expand...
You do have to remove the cowl and to do that you have to remove the viscous fan, then there is sufficient room to do the pump. I put a piece of hardboard over the rear face of the RAD to protect it while doing the pump.
 
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