Removing TD4 Sump Guard

Ive been trying to do an oil change on my 01 TD4, but I can't get the sump guard off.

Ive got the Haynes manual but it doesn't show how to take it off, has anyone got any pictures or a description of how to do it??

Cheers Alex

Hi madalex123...I have a drawn picture if this helps

Don't know which version of the Haynes you have but if it is 4623 then it is on page 1B.6 Maintenance Procedures-diesel models.
As yours is an 01 you might have the earlier version but it has been covered many times and the pictures posted.

Great picture,
I couldn't for the life of me,undo a couple of the bolts due to rusting solid and having been rounded off by someone prior to me owning it.I felt around with my fingers to locate the sump plug,then used a hole saw to cut through the sump guard.Cant remember what size of hole,but its big enough to get socket on sump plug and drain oil through it.But not so big as to make bugger all difference to function of sump guard.
Oil changes are a lot quicker without all that hassle of removal/refitting of the guard.

When it was under new / under warranty the oil was sucked out of my wife's 2006 TD4 rather than being drained so when the warranty expired and I started to do the servicing myself they all came undone with a sharp crack!
Since then the undertray comes off every 6-months for the oil-change and I have to say it is no bother at all. With the front wheels up on ramps the undertray is off in a matter of minutes, connect up the drainplug and let it empty in its own time with no spillage.

Thanks for the picture guy it helps.

Your the second person to say that to me today about cutting a hole in the sump guard,
Looking under mine i think the previous owner has already done it.

Has anyone got a descent diagram for jacking the car up its an o1 td4.

Hi

I'm having the same issue on my 2005 td4 which i think is a facelift model.

I thought i had it cracked with the helpful picture from highvoltage but the front fixings seem different.

I think I can get the plate off if i remove the front body panels between the lights but this seems a bit extreme to do a quick oil change.

any suggestions out there.

alternatively has anyone ever drilled out the pop rivets and replaced with self tappers or similar which would enable the plastic bit to just drop away when the rear bolts are removed

thanks

on the face lift ones the two bolts at the front are hidden a bit by the bumper you can still get them off though .I have brought another sup guard and I am making a alloy middle section so all you need to do is undo the bolts on the centre bit saves undoing the bolts on the front and back and all the screws. talking about sucking oil out of the engine I was only talking about that yesterday to a friend . it started in the 1970's and I recon it was not good for the engine it is better to let everything flow out.

neils418 said:

Hi
I'm having the same issue on my 2005 td4 which i think is a facelift model.
I thought i had it cracked with the helpful picture from highvoltage but the front fixings seem different.
I think I can get the plate off if i remove the front body panels between the lights but this seems a bit extreme to do a quick oil change.
any suggestions out there.
alternatively has anyone ever drilled out the pop rivets and replaced with self tappers or similar which would enable the plastic bit to just drop away when the rear bolts are removed
thanks

Click to expand...

Like I said in my earlier reply, the undershield comes off in a matter of minutes and there is no reason NOT to take it off for each oil-change. Certainly there is no reason to remove any other panel (and yes, my wife's is a late 2006 model so just the same), you just ease the panel to one side to access the fixings, easy.
Do it once and you will see just how simple & straight-forward it is.

Thank you people - job done

I took mine off, and left it off. Unless you're going off road it doesn't serve much purpose imho, And access is much easier, although you have to secure the front valence by some method to stop it flapping.

neils418 said:

Thank you people - job done

Click to expand...

Did you remember to ensure you had the correct socket for the oil-filter housing before you started?

Andrew McIntyre said:

I took mine off, and left it off. Unless you're going off road it doesn't serve much purpose imho, And access is much easier, although you have to secure the front valence by some method to stop it flapping.

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It's there for a purpose.
Not everything is designed for off-road protection (and this one certainly isn't), it keeps the underside of the engine-bay cleaner and helps with noise & aerodynamics (important when designing vehicles).

For the sake of less than 10-minutes to remove it once every 6-months I will leave it in-place.

I just use a pella pump to do oil changes so no need to remove and a td4 or 1.8. Still need to an an l diesel as filer is down there

Litch said:

Did you remember to ensure you had the correct socket for the oil-filter housing before you started?

Click to expand...

Yep - made a visit to the local auto centre which is a bit like halfords but quarter the size and four times the price.

£15 for one that will last me out and probably still going when my grandkids hang their overalls up !!

Problem living out in the sticks - 20 mile drive to the nearest decent toolshop

Okay have read all comments after doing a we hunt for advice,

so to sum(p) up the process for oil changing for an other newbie with a 2005 TD4 Sport

1- Sump guard off to expose plug or check if there is a previous hole been cut.
2- Drain oil & refit plug with new washer.
3- Old oil filter out & new one in. I used to fill up the new oil filter with oil before fitting on an old corsa, do I need to fill it on the TD4?
4- refill engine with new oil.
job done or is it ???

I have been told about a crankcase breather filter? needs doing every oil change?