recommissioning 2.5na engine

have had the engine completely out of my landie for clutch fork replacement. I replaced a leaky injector pump at the same time, Engine is reassembled and back in the truck but obviously, there are issues of getting oil, water and fuel to where it should be is there a guide anyone knows of to recommission the engine as i cant find anything in the RAVE or Haynes manual.

Did you completely drain all the oil, water and fuel?
If you did, simply top up the oil through the 710 cap on top of the rocker cover, remove the small pipe from the water expansion tank and let it droop.
Then put your finger over the pintle when you fill up with the recommended water/antifreeze mix until it comes out of the rubber pipe.
Prime the fuel with the 'tickler' on the fuel pump, then slacken all the injector feed pipes, and get someone to turn over the engine.
Once fuel appears from them, nip up the connectors 1-3-4-2 and she should try to run once you have secured one or two of them.
Job done.

Thanks again old seadog. no didnt drain the engine down of oil just lost some when I removed the oil filter to get to the injector pump. It was more the fuel I was worried about and you have answered my question beautifully

Nowt to worry about mate. Just see that the fuel system is primed properly as explained above otherwise it just won't start.

Oldseadog said:

Did you completely drain all the oil, water and fuel?
If you did, simply top up the oil through the 710 cap on top of the rocker cover, remove the small pipe from the water expansion tank and let it droop.
Then put your finger over the pintle when you fill up with the recommended water/antifreeze mix until it comes out of the rubber pipe.
Prime the fuel with the 'tickler' on the fuel pump, then slacken all the injector feed pipes, and get someone to turn over the engine.
Once fuel appears from them, nip up the connectors 1-3-4-2 and she should try to run once you have secured one or two of them.
Job done.

Click to expand...

Still not got round to completing this (just fuel to do) as I have to work outside and the weather has been against me. stoopid question but saves hours of looking through the rave manual. the cylinders on the 2.5na are numbered 1-4 front to back yes?

Yes.

Finally got round to bleeding the fuel injectors but cant get her started not an inkling of trying to fire. It was always difficult to start and needed lots of glowplug heating. On the fitting I followed the Haynes manual. Made a mark on the old pump and casing before removing it. Matched that onto the new pump and lined the mark on the pump and casing up and ensured that the bar on the spindle engaged properly in the pulley. I know thats a bit jury rigged but have been told that normally works. Is it likely that despite my preparations for refitting the timing is still wrong? If so anyone got a good description of adjusting the timing on a 12J engine I believe it needs special tools. Thing is I have used an old replacement pump not a recon which could be faulty.

Sorry Flossie, was not casting aspersions about the injector pump I bought from you but always have to consider that there is an outside chance this could be the problem!

Ok need some help now setting up the timing. Rave manual shows you can set the cav fuel pump timing through the inspection plate in the timing belt casing however, when I tried to do mine this morning I got the flywheel to TDC but you cant see the hole in the pulley on the injector pump that lines up with the timing hole in the back of the timing case. It is just under the lip of the inspection hole. All I can assume is that this is a 10j or an earlier 12j engine. The Rave manual I have doesn't seem to cover this model as its older. Haynes manual is pretty difficult to follow but I get the impression I need to strip off the water pump, crank pulley and timing case to set the injector timing. That seems to be a pfaff but just moving the injector pump by loosening the keeper plate nuts and rotating it until it fires seems a bit hit and miss and probably wont give me optimum timing settings. Anyone done this recently and can suggest a hack to get round the big strip down

timing is done at exhaust peak no1,when you pin flywheel, no1 valve should be fully open and all the timing marks in the front cover will be aligned with their corresponding marks, you remove plug from side of pump and you should see a notch in the edge of a disc facing you if you have the pin the pin locates in this notch if it doesnt you slacken the 3 pump nuts and rotate pump till pin fits in or you can see notch is aligned with the hole

Where is the engine mark on a 2.5 na. My truck has been messed about so much I dont know if I am looking at a 12j or 19j engine and want to make sure so I know where the timing marks in the timing belt case are before I take it apart