recalibrate tailgate window

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thequeenscheese

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,487
Location
Greater Manchester
I've just rewired the 3 cables on the tailgate regulator it now working well but I can't get it to recalibrate so the window drops on opening, I can't see any slack in the cables (auto adjuster plastic slightly broke where it sits over the regulator but I don't think it's that as have tied it in position to test it).
The other sprung cable is always fully tentiined/compressed (not sure it should be), but as the window has full travel I think it's not this, all was working 100% before cable snapped so I doubt its switch, reason I ended up getting around to this is a pal pressed wrong window button - down opperation ( was manegable before this by helping it down manually once open so it can rise when shut).

I've tried the battery off for 10secs then start, Rev at 1500rpm for 10secs, window up window down window up.
Tried holding the rear fog switch method didn't seem to do anything, tried same without engine running.

Nothing seems to fix, there are no beebs like fail or now calibrated

99-2000 van

Any other ideas and or the deffinitive correct procedure to do this!

Cheers
 
Something else that did which I'm unsure of ii wrapped the cables around the spoil in opposite directions on the correct side of the spool but should I have wrapped both or just one and left kne connected to wind up/down once re fitted.? (one had a couple of turns on the spool and one had about 1.5)
 
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The procedure is...
After fitting new cables and regulator..


1 disconect battery wait and reconect
2 turn ignition on
3 start and Reb to 1500+rpm keep it there
4 after 10seconds preens window down button it will beep then window up, window down, window up.
5 it's now calibrated.

Notes
My window would not stay up but if does stay up it should drop on reconection of battery.

The kit I used did not have enough natural tension on the big plastic auto adjuster so so found in another post ( by octimus/and or tannaton I think) I used a jubelee clip to get more tension (basically compresses the spring more), the plastic on this is also very brittle where it fastens to the regulator mine broke but luckily its still ok


If octimus or tan baton read this pleas post that pick of the jubelee clip fix and some instructions to get it on, I found that bit a pig to do so maybe you got an easy way..
 
dis connect the car battery

the rear window will wind down when it's re-connected

then, without doing anything else, press the lock button on the key fob 6 times in succession (one elephant, two elephant etc.....)
 
dis connect the car battery

the rear window will wind down when it's re-connected

then, without doing anything else, press the lock button on the key fob 6 times in succession (one elephant, two elephant etc.....)

The method above worked for me tried this a few times it didn't work, admitedley not with the jubelee fix in place tho, so maybe both work.?
 
dis connect the car battery

the rear window will wind down when it's re-connected

then, without doing anything else, press the lock button on the key fob 6 times in succession (one hippopotamus, two hippopotamus etc.....)
:d
 
you were typing yours at the same time as me :) sorry for not noticing it earlier.

its the method I've used a lot and seems to work well.


:p

I think the issue might have been the auto adjuster tbh but anyway hopefully this will now be clear cut thread for someone else as I God very difficult to find the correct conclusive info, time for a sticky?
 
dis connect the car battery

the rear window will wind down when it's re-connected

then, without doing anything else, press the lock button on the key fob 6 times in succession (one elephant, two elephant etc.....)

What's with the button pressing while counting elephant's or hippopotamus's or whatever?. I've never done anything like that. I just push the internal window up button. This works just fine.
 
You don't need to count. I just press the bottom on/off quickly and it's happy.

Regarding rear window cal... you don't need the engine running. If you do then this would suggest a low voltage at the rear due to a loss in the circuits. A higher voltage when the engine is running would help over come the loss.
 
I count cos that's the way I was shown to do it

it doesn't matter cos it works :)

not heard of pressing the interior button I may try that next time

all this info can be added to a sticky for the good of freelandering in general :)
 
You don't need to count. I just press the bottom on/off quickly and it's happy.

Regarding rear window cal... you don't need the engine running. If you do then this would suggest a low voltage at the rear due to a loss in the circuits. A higher voltage when the engine is running would help over come the loss.

Dunno if it's what made it work or not but read it on here and was suggested by the guy where cables came from, but will help battery from flattening if nothing else
 
I count cos that's the way I was shown to do it

it doesn't matter cos it works :)

not heard of pressing the interior button I may try that next time

all this info can be added to a sticky for the good of freelandering in general :)
When re-connecting the engine battery... fob 5 times for re-sync fobs to Freelander. Inner button is the tailgate up/down for putting it to the top to re-cal after engine battery re-connection.
 
When re-connecting the engine battery... fob 5 times for re-sync fobs to Freelander. Inner button is the tailgate up/down for putting it to the top to re-cal after engine battery re-connection.

Yes but I've used the same procedure for both and it works ok ;)


saves me having to remember two different methods anorl


and just to add : you have to press the interior button anyway.to wind the window back up again ;)
 
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Ah the counting is for the Fob :doh:
Never needed to do that after the vehicle battery is removed, only the fob battery.
 
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