Rear work lamp

Finally took possession of my 110 and have been trying to look around it in the dark cos I cant wit until morning.
I was fumbling around with the rear work lamp and found a switch on the back of the lamp which I assume is the on/off switch. I had the electrics on but the lamp didnt work.
Is there a way of finding out if it's the bulb or is there a normal route for the wires that I can trace to find out if it's connected?

I would suspect there is a switch in the cab or something? Just so some little ****er can't turn your light on leave it all day and you have a flat battery.

Well,I found what I think is the button for it. It was threat big red knob (ooer) right under my nose. It's like a choke that you pull out. Still doesnt work though.
I got into the wiring after I got the radio out and I saw that the cable leading from the light splits into a black and red wire which go into the back of the knob except that there is another shorter red wire with a blue,square thing on the end. I think I must of pulled this out of somewhere becouse now the fag lighter doesnt work either so I'm doing well so far.
I have pictures it will help. Any ideas as to where this wire should go?
The black wire had been cut and spliced onto a third wire that went down into the depths of the car. The wires had just been wrapped together with a bit of soldering on it so I took that apart to see if I could rewire it to get the lamp to work with no success.
Now I've got bloody wires everywhere. Help!

try putting it in reverse gear see if that works

fred dibnah said:

try putting it in reverse gear see if that works

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Nope.

Reverse is a green wire with brown stripe (IIRC) Black is earth, or should be. If ya want to get it working. remove the metal cover from the rear O/S lights and you'll find two lots of wiring one for the lights and one for the towbar electrics Use a multimetre or a bulb & bulbholder to test for a live supply and wire the light into that put a switch into the live circuit and roberts your fathers brother.

it sounds from your description as though the person who installed the work lamp may have wired it direct to the switch and taken the power for it from the back of the fag lighter...

you'll probably want to do it properly now and ignore the existing wiring...

OK thanks for the help. Are the O/S light the reverse light? Would I just cut the wiring and splice extra wires on the earth and the live so I have the wires leading to the O/S light and another two branching off to the lamp?
I think the lamp has a switch already behind it. It's a LR lamp.

not sure if you would want to take power for a work light from the reversing lights.. what are you planning to do with it.. if you want it as a powerful reverse light then that's fine but if you want to use it as a work light will you always be in reverse when you need it?

mjltigger said:

not sure if you would want to take power for a work light from the reversing lights.. what are you planning to do with it.. if you want it as a powerful reverse light then that's fine but if you want to use it as a work light will you always be in reverse when you need it?

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I was just planning on using it as a work light.

in which case if you want to use the switch on the lamp as the on off switch I would look for a permanent live rather than switched and fit an isolator indoors (to stop some pillock turning your light on and running your battery down when you aren't about...) ... try connecting the switch inside to 12v and see if you can get the light to work, if so you just need to get a permanent live from behind the dash and reconnect it all.. fag lighter might be OK but would personally go for something else if it's there..

Have a good hunt around in the morning when its light, prob a switch inside somewhere.

Right,there is a black wire that leads from the dashboard switch which has been spliced into the lamp wire.
Another black wire leads from that splice that is attached to another black wire which is part of a bundle of wires that goes down into the dashboard.
All three wires were twisted together and soldered so I've taken that all off.
The red lamp wire is attached properly into the switch and there is a second,shorter red wire that has a blue clamp thing on which doesnt seem to go anywhere.

What I need are some instructions that come with inspection lights when you buy them which I presume show you how to wire it up. Looks like I might have to buy a whole kit just to see how it's wired up.

The fag lighter wiring looks OK but doesnt work although if I keep pressing it in and out,it starts to produce smoke which I presume isnt good but at least it means their's a current going through it.

Take the live feed from the permanent live on the towing electrics. to the lamp and run an earth wire from the switch to the lamp.

Fix the fag lighter problem and use a fag lighter connection for the lamp?

fag lighters are for lighting fags not for continuous loading anyone who uses a fag lighter for anything other than fag lighting is a lazy bastid or an idiot.

If ya want a worklight or a longterm satnav/phone charger etc. Get a proper 20amp din socket and use a dedicated live supply or at least a live that is rated for continuous loading.

I bet the bulbs blown in your worklamp

Me fag lighters acting right queer. I plugged a power adapter into it and then an inspection lamp into that just to see if there was a current. The lamp and the power LED on the adapter began to flash on and off every second. I DW'd all the points and cleaned them but it's still happening.
How is that even possible? What can be making the electricity pulse like that?

Can the DIN be wired up using the fag lighter wires? As far as the work lamp goes,I'd be happy with just being able to plug it into either the dash or even the outlet at the back if thats possible.