Rear wheel bearing replacement

Whistler · Mar 12, 2017

I've tracked down the rumble from the rear of my 2003 TD4 and its the drivers side rear wheel bearing. Has anyone replaced a rear bearing themselves and could pass on any tips/things to avoid or watch out for ? It doesn't sound too difficult from the Haynes manual, but it looks like the long rear bolt that holds various suspension bars onto the rear hub has to come out, and from memory this is usually seized and is a pig to remove (and usually needs replacing afterwards).

Anyone had it done at an indy and could give me a rough idea of what it would cost (in case I chicken out !) ?

Thanks

Madmustang · Mar 12, 2017

Whistler said:
I've tracked down the rumble from the rear of my 2003 TD4 and its the drivers side rear wheel bearing. Has anyone replaced a rear bearing themselves and could pass on any tips/things to avoid or watch out for ? It doesn't sound too difficult from the Haynes manual, but it looks like the long rear bolt that holds various suspension bars onto the rear hub has to come out, and from memory this is usually seized and is a pig to remove (and usually needs replacing afterwards).

Anyone had it done at an indy and could give me a rough idea of what it would cost (in case I chicken out !) ?

Thanks

I had a go at my fronts last year but I only had a hammer and not a press. I did all the work myself at taking the hubs off. I could not get the bearings out and in the end took them to a machanic that did have a press. I gave him the new bearings and the job for both sets came to £50 cash in hand

teddywood1 · Mar 13, 2017

make sure you get the right ones as in later years they put a magnetic sensor in for the abs while the older freelanders relied on the old type of sensor

Whistler · Mar 13, 2017

Thanks, I've got a press so thats handy. I'm going to do the work myself and ordered a bearing kit and the long link bolt this morning. I've ordered an FAG bearing, and got the one that applies to my chassis number.

Fingers crossed........

Madmustang · Mar 13, 2017

Whistler said:
Thanks, I've got a press so thats handy. I'm going to do the work myself and ordered a bearing kit and the long link bolt this morning. I've ordered an FAG bearing, and got the one that applies to my chassis number.

Fingers crossed........

On my car a 2001 TD4 I found out that the Freelander2 bearing kit with the 36mm nut fitted my car and were half the price. I bought the 32mm nuts for them so I could get the hub nuts on at the correct torque. Because I have the Treves Mk20 ABS with passive sensors system on my car so the magnetic bearing does not affect the operation of my car so bonus!

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/members/teddywood1.73344/

asnitker · Mar 14, 2017

I did it last year, and I had a lot of trouble getting the lang bolts out - but succeeded using a lot of heat on them.
I also spend more time then I like to admit on getting the ABS sensors out. Ended figuring out, yhat I could just release the connection right under the wheel arch and work on the hub with the sensor in place.

guineafowl21 · Mar 14, 2017

Whistler said:
I've tracked down the rumble from the rear of my 2003 TD4 and its the drivers side rear wheel bearing. Has anyone replaced a rear bearing themselves and could pass on any tips/things to avoid or watch out for ? It doesn't sound too difficult from the Haynes manual, but it looks like the long rear bolt that holds various suspension bars onto the rear hub has to come out, and from memory this is usually seized and is a pig to remove (and usually needs replacing afterwards).

Anyone had it done at an indy and could give me a rough idea of what it would cost (in case I chicken out !) ?

Thanks

Did it a couple of years ago. As above, don't try too hard to get the ABS sensor out - unplug it rather than ruin it. As for the long bar, it will be seized at the hub so be prepared to undo it at the other end.

Alibro · Mar 17, 2017

Any update on this?
I had to use heat to get the long bolts out and ended up trashing them so make sure you have a new one.
Buy new 32mm nuts too as they are meant to be replaced and are also a pig to get off. I have a 3/4" 1.5m breaker bar and it was bending a lot while taking the old one off.

Rear wheel bearing replacement

Whistler

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Madmustang

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teddywood1

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Whistler

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Madmustang

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asnitker

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guineafowl21

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Alibro

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