- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Don't introduce any sort of moisure into the system.
Rear suspension.
- Thread starter J L Carr
- Start date
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Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
- Posts
- 19,893
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I wouldn't put anything at all in the EAS system. It should be scrupulously clean.
To disable the system to pump up manually you can pull the delay timer under the passenger seat. If it is driveable you're welcome to pop over and we'll try the Nanocom on it. You can take some pipe back for repairs if you like too. Cannot do Monday until after 8 pm though.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
- Posts
- 19,893
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Beat me to it!
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Hi Grrrrrr. Won't be able to get over to you till the weekend as by the time I finish work then get home from central London, so thanks for the offer, I'll just have to give it a very good going over this weekend, lets hope I can find something. But its driving me mad as to why.
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Going to be out under the car (weather permitting) to try to find something either a leak in the pipes or bags, then going to make 1 good valve block out of 2. Lets hope I can find something.
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Well the first thing I did was put the Schrader valves on the back end of the car and she stayed up and has not dropped since 11am this morning, so now I know its not the lines or bags then its go to be the valve block that has the fault. So phone a lad in the club who owns a RangeRover garage to arrange for him to overhaul the valve block, so now all lines have the Schrader valves on and the car has not dropped at all and its now 16.50 and they have been on for over 6 hours and the car is still the same ride height, measured from the hub centre to the wheel arch and put it at 470mm. So now I'll see what happens tomorrow if the car is the same or has dropped.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
- Posts
- 19,893
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Bingo. The valve block isn't that complex inside. An ally block with rubber bits and some odds and sods screwed on.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Well been out there most of the day and YIPPEE I think I have discovered the leaks, it seems that where the air lines go into the valve block the air is coming out of there. That's after changing most of the internals to try and find the leak, so changec the small rubbers inside the connection holes but its still leaking from that area. Could I put 3 of the small rubbers in there or if I remember someone said use a pencil sharper on the lines to make them tapered so they will fit better. I've got a line repair kit so I might just add a small new end to see if that helps.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
- Posts
- 19,893
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Wouldn't worry about the pencil sharpener unless you've cut them. Can try another o-ring. Are they the right thickness?
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Yes there the right ones so I'll try 3 in there tomorrow, lets hope that sorts it out. I've got a set of Terrafirmas on the car done about 60 miles on them, did not realise how bloody hard they are so there in for a change tomorrow as well. Put these on the boards for sale for £80 ish and I paid £130 for them. Ok so no pencil sharpen the ends. The Schrader valves keep the car up all night, it was nice to come out today and see it at its normal height.
Will keep you posted as to how it goes, Oh found the leak with the old soapy water trick.
Will keep you posted as to how it goes, Oh found the leak with the old soapy water trick.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Two O'rings ONLY smear lightly with silicon grease. Make sure pipe ends are not sharp and that the part of pipe that will engage O'rings is clean and free from marks. Smear lightly with silicon grease and insert. Allow suspension to rise then push pipes in again whilst pressure is against O'rings.
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Hi Wammers, I did that but it was still leaking, stopped the valve leak that was the right rear put it all back on then discover it was now leaking at where the pipes enter the block. Put the suspension to full height and tried to push the pipes in again, sprayed a bit of soapy water on the connections and they were still leaking, new seals and inserts but its still the same, there is 2 O rings in there, I was thinking of as Grrrrr said of puting 1 more in to see if that helped stop the weeping past the pipes. The car is back down this morning so I know there's not much air in the system, I may add to the end of the pipes it could be the ends have gone raggy with all the in and out I've been doing, what do you think or trim the end so there nice and clean and tidy.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Pipes must be damaged look for score marks on them, unless you are using wrong size or red O'rings which are to soft and easily damaged. Make sure the pipes are clean with no burrs or marks you can cut about a max of 5 or 6 mm off them if they have not been cut back before, to reposition the sealing portion but no more. Slightly chamfer ends with a pencil sharpener.
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 15,236
- Location
- midlands
could it be leaking past the solenoid seat of the port its leaking from ?
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Hi Wammers. Jut had look at the ends of the pipes, the whole lot are scored very badly so just ordered some pipe connection. As I have ome pipe it looks like I'll have to replace all the ends, lets hope that works.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
That will be your trouble then.
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
I've just ordered a line repair kit or should I say the joining pieces as I already have some or the 6mm line, but having a look at the ends it looks like I'm going to have to cut these back about 40mm as I would say they've been cut back before. I also ordered some new seals and inserts, so fulls set to get this sorted. Lets hope. Lol.
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Well still got the leak, back end only now, so now just waiting for the new bits to arrive and then hopefully this will be the end of it.
Has any body got an idea where I can get a RangeRover running board end cap from N/side rear. My running boards are factory fitted, not after market type.
Has any body got an idea where I can get a RangeRover running board end cap from N/side rear. My running boards are factory fitted, not after market type.
J L Carr
Active Member
- Posts
- 360
- Location
- Hemel Hempsted
Hi Guys, great news the front has stayed up since yesterday so it looks like with your help we've solved the problem, so now just go to wait for the new bits that's coming tomorrow morning. The back has still dropped but I expected that as I could not cut the pipes any shorter back. Lets hope this is the end of this saga. Just now going to change the shockers for RR ones so hopefully the ride will be softer.
