Rear suspension.

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Sometimes the drier breaking up causes a white silica gel deposit to cover the solenoid valve seals with a crust and they cannot seal properly. It is unlikely it is just effecting the two rear valves but not impossible. Isolate the valve block and inflate the arse end with your valves soap test them. If it stays up it has to be the valve block. If it drops it has to be the lines or bags. It's a case of trial and error i am afraid. Just follow logical steps.
Agree, see post #14
 
Hope you get better soon, I'm waiting for a mate of mine putting together a valve block for me to try and see if that's the problem. I have an old block and the last time I tried it it would only pump up the near side of the car, so I bought 1 from a guy in the club and it seemed fine until now. I just hope it is that as I was under the car for over 1 hour spraying everything with soapy water to try and find the leak, its just bugging me like mad and its over running the compressor and if I cannot sort it out that would be the next thing to replace. All good fun (NOT).
 
Hope you get better soon, I'm waiting for a mate of mine putting together a valve block for me to try and see if that's the problem. I have an old block and the last time I tried it it would only pump up the near side of the car, so I bought 1 from a guy in the club and it seemed fine until now. I just hope it is that as I was under the car for over 1 hour spraying everything with soapy water to try and find the leak, its just bugging me like mad and its over running the compressor and if I cannot sort it out that would be the next thing to replace. All good fun (NOT).

You're still driving it?
 
Hope you get better soon, I'm waiting for a mate of mine putting together a valve block for me to try and see if that's the problem. I have an old block and the last time I tried it it would only pump up the near side of the car, so I bought 1 from a guy in the club and it seemed fine until now. I just hope it is that as I was under the car for over 1 hour spraying everything with soapy water to try and find the leak, its just bugging me like mad and its over running the compressor and if I cannot sort it out that would be the next thing to replace. All good fun (NOT).

The reason it inflated just one side is because you fitted the solenoid coils in the wrong place.
 
Hi Wammers. When I did the re-seal kit on the old valve set I did then 1 at a time as to not get them mixed up, its only after that it would only lift on 1 side. That's why I got that set of 1 of the lads in the club. But I could never figer out why or what I had done wrong for that to happen. I've still got that block in the garage all with the new seals.
 
Hi Wammers. When I did the re-seal kit on the old valve set I did then 1 at a time as to not get them mixed up, its only after that it would only lift on 1 side. That's why I got that set of 1 of the lads in the club. But I could never figer out why or what I had done wrong for that to happen. I've still got that block in the garage all with the new seals.

Rears rise first followed by fronts. If one side only goes up both at the same time you have the coils in the wrong place can't be any other reason.
 
So how can I find out which coil is for where, is there something on them or is it down to tracing the wires back to the connector block.
 
Think you can deflate one corner at a time with the Nanocom? That would confirm easily. Not sure about the EAS suite? Assume you have that? If not then send a message to Datatek ASAP.
 
Got that from Datakek 2 years ago, then found out that 1 of my front bags had rotted away so that's when I replaced the lot. All with a Dunlop set, its been ok till the last couple of months then started dropping on th back end only and if you leave the car alone after a couple of hour the front drops as well.
 
Got that from Datakek 2 years ago, then found out that 1 of my front bags had rotted away so that's when I replaced the lot. All with a Dunlop set, its been ok till the last couple of months then started dropping on th back end only and if you leave the car alone after a couple of hour the front drops as well.

Unlikely that all four bags are leaking but not impossible. Maybe looking at the valve block would be a good move. The only things in the valve block that can cause a leak dropping a corner other than the pipe connections to it are the small O'rings at the base of each solenoid valve to block or the solenoid valve itself. All of the other O'rings on solenoid valves can only leak when a bag is being inflated.
 
Hi Guys, do you know any where I could get a set of rear air lines as I changed over the valve block and the rear still went down. So its either the lines or the air bags, even tho I spent an hour under the car seeing or hearing for a leak. So I'll try the chhep option for now change the air lines first and if its still happening then a new set of rear bags.
 
You could try Peter Harris Mayes in Rickmansworth for the air lines, so pretty close to you - 01923 711800 - but won't be open again till Monday. its a repair and servicing garage that specialises in LR models but he sells parts as well and is usually very helpful, been trading for years.
 
Hi Guys, do you know any where I could get a set of rear air lines as I changed over the valve block and the rear still went down. So its either the lines or the air bags, even tho I spent an hour under the car seeing or hearing for a leak. So I'll try the chhep option for now change the air lines first and if its still happening then a new set of rear bags.

Active-Air in Aylesbury have all the stuff you'd ever need. I have some 6mm line in my garage. It is clear not black though. Happy for you to use that until you're sorted.
 
Try putting a real compressor on air lines to check for a leak. The wee compressor on the car is too wee to hear air escaping from the rear air lines
 
Put the old valve block on yesterday and gave that a try, then found a leak on 1 of the seals sorted that out and have discovered that 1 of the lower valves is ticking most of the time. Is this right, but the car stays up a lot longer, the compressor is not running all the time now don't know if I have put the presure switch wires the right way round as both are red , so is it just guess work with this or does it not make any difference. The back does drop but after an hour the front was still up this morning, if I try the Schrader valves do I disconnect the EAS unit as I would need the engine running to use my tyre pump, just to try them on the back.
 
Put the old valve block on yesterday and gave that a try, then found a leak on 1 of the seals sorted that out and have discovered that 1 of the lower valves is ticking most of the time. Is this right, but the car stays up a lot longer, the compressor is not running all the time now don't know if I have put the presure switch wires the right way round as both are red , so is it just guess work with this or does it not make any difference. The back does drop but after an hour the front was still up this morning, if I try the Schrader valves do I disconnect the EAS unit as I would need the engine running to use my tyre pump, just to try them on the back.

If you have valve ticking you have a leak, doesn't matter which way round the pressure switch wires go.
 
Hi Wammers, is there any where I could get the inserts that's in the side of the valve block (metal type) the ones that hold the pipes in place,, had a look on Fleebay but no joy. Cheers.
 
Hi Wammers, found them, just quick question would it do any harm to the system if I put a few drops of food coloring in the rear pipes to see if I could find the leak in either the pipes or bags. Just a thought but I thought I'd ask the expert. E.G. you.
 
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