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If you raise/lift it.... would you not need to do something with the rear sensors or do they extend enough to accommodate the lift ??
Disco 2 Rear spring conversions
- Thread starter Matt2e0fgx
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If you raise/lift it.... would you not need to do something with the rear sensors or do they extend enough to accommodate the lift ??
Matt2e0fgx
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Good point but if the spacers on the top . Technically the sensors would not need moving surely?
Si Click
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The bag itself is still in the same position and inflating to the same point, so the height sensors should work as normal. I'm guessing here as I have never done it.
sierrafery
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The sensors are connected to the radius arms so spacers needed as to keep theyr's original setup, you can see those spacers in the lift kit .... meanwhile i have to apologize cos i had a mental hickup when i said that the spacers come above the springs cos in my mind was below but i wrote above. here's a tutorial http://www.discovery2.co.uk/lift.html
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Michalis Karatzis
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I just had a 2" inch lift installed to my non-ACE with air D2. I used the under the bags spacers from Terrafirma that come with the necessary sensor spacers and bolts.
I went with the +2" Pro Shocks and needed the extended brake hoses from Terrafirma. ABS sensors didn't need extending. I also needed to space out the crossmember under the front axle by 4-5cm. Didn't not need to change bump stops.
It was a quite easy job if you have the right tools and the driving and handling of the car is just fine. Not much body roll, not very bumpy and in my opinion it really improves the off road capabilities of the car combined with a slightly bigger AT tire.
If you need more info shoot!
I went with the +2" Pro Shocks and needed the extended brake hoses from Terrafirma. ABS sensors didn't need extending. I also needed to space out the crossmember under the front axle by 4-5cm. Didn't not need to change bump stops.
It was a quite easy job if you have the right tools and the driving and handling of the car is just fine. Not much body roll, not very bumpy and in my opinion it really improves the off road capabilities of the car combined with a slightly bigger AT tire.
If you need more info shoot!
Matt2e0fgx
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A bit more info on where you spaced the front body to axle would be good . Pictures even better please . Also did you have to replace and suspension bushes or prop Uj's etc ?
Michalis Karatzis
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You can see the spacers in the link posted above at the bottom of the page: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/lift.html
No other changes (UJ, bushes etc)
Matt2e0fgx
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Sorry I thought meant body spacers not the actual spacers to go under bags and springs ...
It's either do you put 2" spacers or 2" springs on the front ?
It's either do you put 2" spacers or 2" springs on the front ?
Si Click
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Can you give some more detail on this. I was not aware that a 2" lift required chassis adjustment.
Matt2e0fgx
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Also like clarification on this too
Michalis Karatzis
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If you check the link posted above everything will make sense (see attached pic as well). Please note that the spacing is only needed when you go for +2" shocks which means the axles can drop (when fully extended) lower than the stock ones. Most people use new springs or spacers that provide the 2" lift but stick with shocks with the oem lengths (open/closed). This is ok if you don't retain the airbags but have in mind that the downward wheel travel is limited, articulation too.
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Si Click
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OK, I see where you are coming from, although for the front prop to also drop by 2" over standard surely both wheels would have to be extended to their maximum so that the entire axle was lower?
Not sure I see how that is possible unless bouncing the car up and down. If one wheel is extended and the other taking the weight of the vehicle the axle will pivot around the central point which will remain at the same height. Because the diff is biased to one side, if the RH front wheel is extended then the prop will be lower, but it will never reach the full additional 2" of the wheel itself. I guess it could happen if you are driving fast over rough terrain and compress the suspension so that both front wheels reach maximum extension on the bounce.
Has anyone else fitted spacers to the crossbar to avoid contact with the propshaft?
Not sure I see how that is possible unless bouncing the car up and down. If one wheel is extended and the other taking the weight of the vehicle the axle will pivot around the central point which will remain at the same height. Because the diff is biased to one side, if the RH front wheel is extended then the prop will be lower, but it will never reach the full additional 2" of the wheel itself. I guess it could happen if you are driving fast over rough terrain and compress the suspension so that both front wheels reach maximum extension on the bounce.
Has anyone else fitted spacers to the crossbar to avoid contact with the propshaft?
ronsealdeath
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Yes lots of people done it to avoid prop destruction. Easy job.
If you like air springs but not the electrics, just lose your air connection to the compressor and add a schrader valve instead. Just inflate and deflate with a pump.
The air is better than springs any day and with the addition of a schrader valve, totally fixable by the side of the road if electric gubbins go south.
Spare bags easy to carry and fit.
If it aint broke dont fix it or lift it!
If you like air springs but not the electrics, just lose your air connection to the compressor and add a schrader valve instead. Just inflate and deflate with a pump.
The air is better than springs any day and with the addition of a schrader valve, totally fixable by the side of the road if electric gubbins go south.
Spare bags easy to carry and fit.
If it aint broke dont fix it or lift it!
Michalis Karatzis
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Even lifting the car from the chassis for a repair/oil change will have the prop fouling the crossmember. It is a very easy job and only necessary if you are fitting +2" shocks (as I said not many do).
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