rear passenger not opening after new actuator fitted

Hello all,
I hope someone can help or guide me...been on this most of the day...went well to start with.The went downhill.

I had a problem with a rear passage door not working with the central locking .The button did not work.But door opened from outside if you held up the button by pulling the lever.

So read lots of here a nd bought a new actuator as it seemed to be the fix.

Got new actuator installed central locking now working, internal lever working.

But door will not open from the outside....Child lock lever is up for unlocked.? Keep thinking its this or am i wrong...but do not know what.

I am lost tried everything,took panel off again and can feel rod moving when i operate door handle...but door does not open...help please!

Hi, the child lock is there to not let it open from inside only, if the exterior handle doesnt work means that the control rod is not hooked well to the latch see the 7'th pic from below, IMO there's your problem http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Reardoor_lock.html

Thank you SF do you mean it needs to be a tight fit between the green plastic connector and the door handle?
I put it on as it was .

I assume its mechanical and electrics do not apply.
I have stripped the handle completely and re assembled with grease on metal and silicone spray on the plastic parts.Plus ordered spare just in case.
I seem to be going round in circled with it.

Am i correct in thinking it the latch works as the pull lever works and the central locking button now works on the remote.?

I did wonder about sending it back to JLR as it was expensive at £140 as not working.I will try bending the rod a bit.
I appreciate you help.

I have re connected again and made the rod smaller a bit, but still no joy..I did think about installing the old latch.I think the handle worked on this or maybe I am wrong.

I am waiting for my secondhand handle to come..So maybe that will work.

The other thought was to buy a new rod,I cannot see a part number in the parts list..does anyone know please?
If i had some rod could bend one up i think.
That may be an option.My existing handle looks good condition

the rod ....an update I found it in the LR parts book its FQP101090 these are handed.

I doubt it's the rod as it's just a piece of metal but here you go http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/35775/35776/2746/36237

Thank you SF I found one from JLR with shipping £20 !...

perhaps wait and try the handle ,perhaps something is not working that i cannot see inside. It appears to move the linkage when i pull it but maybe not enough to open the door.
I thought i maybe I could adjust latch a bit, lowering it might tighten up the rod, but holes are fixed.

I have taken it off/on about 5 times now getting good at window frame removal.I appreciate on the Discovery 2 article they say just tilt, but I have big hands and need space..to push the rod in nice and tight it helps with no frame.

I will not be able to do much for a few days as we have bad storms coming But am stuck apart from the handle..Thank you again for helping me.

Bit of an update....used door handle arrived from scrap yard and fitted.
Made no difference still the same.Door will not open with handle from outside.

I am at a loss?..all I can think is latch is faulty. re fitting old one now.

Does the BCU have any settings which could cause this or is my problem just mechanical.?
I have had a look with Nanocom and cannot see anything, but I am not very experienced with Nanocom ,so may be someone else would know if it can just isolate one door.
thank you

westone said:

Bit of an update....used door handle arrived from scrap yard and fitted.
Made no difference still the same.Door will not open with handle from outside.

I am at a loss?..all I can think is latch is faulty. re fitting old one now.

Does the BCU have any settings which could cause this or is my problem just mechanical.?
I have had a look with Nanocom and cannot see anything, but I am not very experienced with Nanocom ,so may be someone else would know if it can just isolate one door.
thank you

Click to expand...

I had this after the nearside rear door was replaced following an accident. It appeared to behave as if the childproof lock was on, but it wasn't.
I didn't fix it but wathced the guys who did.
Lot of fecking around inside the door and a few choice swearwords, then they fixed it. Purely mechanical and a question of linkages.
so maybe some hope of a similar fix to yours?

Just refitted old one...door opens fine, but no central locking.This was why I tried to fix it.
I have asked JLR for an exchange.Original was made by Bosch JLR replacement was made in Germany.
Will update you SF.
thanks for your help.

Thank you Stanley steamer.I am not sure how the linkage is wrong as comparing the one that does open the door,the old one and the new one they seem the same.The movement is.........Must be inside the latch.

The new one supplied by JLR is made by a firm called Bross in Germany.II thought they at least would test things like this.

I saw various postings saying to buy a new one rather than a secondhand one to avoid the very thing thats happened to me.
I have now taken the frame out 5 times!.I was nervous of doing this job at the start as never done it before.Watching videos/write ups is not the same.Quite a lot of pit falls.How folk do it without taking out frame amazes me as I need a lot of force to remove the links from the locating bushes.

Just got to wait now for JLR to send me another one....hope its not to long.
cheers

westone said:

Thank you Stanley steamer.I am not sure how the linkage is wrong as comparing the one that does open the door,the old one and the new one they seem the same.The movement is.........Must be inside the latch.

The new one supplied by JLR is made by a firm called Bross in Germany.II thought they at least would test things like this.

I saw various postings saying to buy a new one rather than a secondhand one to avoid the very thing thats happened to me.
I have now taken the frame out 5 times!.I was nervous of doing this job at the start as never done it before.Watching videos/write ups is not the same.Quite a lot of pit falls.How folk do it without taking out frame amazes me as I need a lot of force to remove the links from the locating bushes.

Just got to wait now for JLR to send me another one....hope its not to long.
cheers

Click to expand...

Best of luck with what is a bastud fiddly job at the best of times.

westone said:

Thank you Stanley steamer.I am not sure how the linkage is wrong as comparing the one that does open the door,the old one and the new one they seem the same.The movement is.........Must be inside the latch.

The new one supplied by JLR is made by a firm called Bross in Germany.II thought they at least would test things like this.

I saw various postings saying to buy a new one rather than a secondhand one to avoid the very thing thats happened to me.
I have now taken the frame out 5 times!.I was nervous of doing this job at the start as never done it before.Watching videos/write ups is not the same.Quite a lot of pit falls.How folk do it without taking out frame amazes me as I need a lot of force to remove the links from the locating bushes.

Just got to wait now for JLR to send me another one....hope its not to long.
cheers

Click to expand...

I've just replaced the two motors in the OSR actuator on mine and found, by accident, if you lift the window frame a few inches and look down from above into the door you can see what you are doing. It's still not an easy job to get the link reconnected, but at least you can see what you hand is doing and where the bits connect!

Hope this helps a bit and good luck, I feel your pain.

PP

Thank you for your support PP.T......hing is I have big hands so need the space to get in to it.I have become quite good at dismantling it after doing it 5 times and will redoing it agian when I get a replacement. ....It sure is a pig of a thing.

I did not know you could replace the motors in them.Thats all I have a problem with...can I ask how you do it and where you get the motors from please?
I may have ago at doing it on my old unit and try to get my cash back from JLR.

westone said:

Thank you for your support PP.T......hing is I have big hands so need the space to get in to it.I have become quite good at dismantling it after doing it 5 times and will redoing it agian when I get a replacement. ....It sure is a pig of a thing.

I did not know you could replace the motors in them.Thats all I have a problem with...can I ask how you do it and where you get the motors from please?
I may have ago at doing it on my old unit and try to get my cash back from JLR.

Click to expand...

I forgot to say that before putting the actuator back into the door I tried it on the door striker making sure all the mechanical bits worked and I could release it with the internal and external levers and the lock button worked etc etc. However, you can't connect it electrically though. I didn't like the thought of having a door permanently locked shut with no means of opening it!

You can replace the motors, but the originals aren't available and it's not for the faint hearted, but as I had nothing to loose and didn't relish the thought of a total bill of £750 to eventually replace all 5 locks as they all eventually fail, I thought I would give it a go. I used these: Amazon product
but they are quite widely available elsewhere.

There are a number of write-ups on the internet
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/door-lock-actuator-repair.290229/
https://landroverforums.com/forum/d...r-dont-buy-new-one-3375/page4/?ispreloading=1
and as the lock is very similar to that fitted to the BMW Mini
https://www.northamericanmotoring.c...lock-actuator-internal-motor-replacement.html

The main issues I had were: removing the motor assembly from the lock unit - you need to remove the push nut and remove the 5mm "rod"; the plastic clips are a PITA and many break, but don't worry!; the lock motor (20005 in the photo below) rotates in the opposite sense to the superlock motor and the replacement motors so you need to reverse the connections to the lock motor in the unit by cutting the tracks and soldering back "crossover" wires, you can't do this in the door loom as the motors share a common connection.

The original motors have a 28mm shaft, the replacements are 20mm, so you need to cut (dremel) 8mm off the old motor and put it in the worm gear as the lock motor in particular need this extra support.

Removing the worm gear and replacing it on the new motor took more heat (higher temperature) than I had expected, I started using a hot air gun but had to use a blowlamp. Measure the gap between the bottom of the worm gear and top of the motor before removing it so you can get it in the right position on the new motor.

This all sounds quite daunting, but I would have no hesitation doing another now I know all (some of!) the pitfalls. If you have a competent helper would be really useful as you need 3 or 4 hands swapping the worm gears.

This is not the best write-up in the world, and as I was running out of time I didn't take enough pictures, but if you need more explanation on any of the stages, I'll try to help.

Good luck if you go down this route.

PP

Thank you very much PP ......thats a very good write up with links and I am impressed with what you have done.

Your idea of checking the mechanical action of the actuator on the car door striker is clever.....I wish I had thought of that, it would have saved a lot of time dismantling/assembly.

When i get my replacement ,I will have a go at this with my old unit and see if I can do it.

I am looking forward to getting the car properly secured.
I will update how I get on.

Inspired by PPs work and posting.......I tried this idea of connecting the latch up off the door.I did not have the courage to connect its the strike plate in case I could not get it off.
This unit is suppose to be going back to JLR,5 days now still waiting for a return number.

So had a go with a mock up to start with, measured strike plate with callipers and found a clamp of same diameter, looks odd in my picture, but locked. and i could release it by the green bush with the handle attached with my made up link wire. Plus without the handle with slight movement of the bush with the green bush on it.~5mm of movement....The got courage and tried it on the strike plate worked!

Before I started I tightened up the mechanism as it seemed so sloppy to me compared to my 20 year old original unit. The small plate by the green bush has a screw with a captive drilling on it to secure the bolt type thing which goes in it.This was very sloppy as supplied...I did not know if it had to be,just thought do what you think is right....Just thought it should not be sloppy.

After all this new confidence i thought i would do install... 6... and try again....and again it failed door would not open with the JLR new actuator.....Now even more lost.
I know the actuator works, but not in my door with the linkage set up as for the original actuator....this opens the door.
I think it's a poor quality part.
Guess have to wait for JLR to talk to me,I cannot send it back without a RMA...if anyone has an epiphany please tell me ...all i can think is make up a new link wire shorter so i get movement.To do this i need some bar of exactly the same size.
It concerns me if JLR do replace this withe the same "BROSE" brand it will be the same situation...perhaps try and get a scrapyard original.

westone said:

Inspired by PPs work and posting.......I tried this idea of connecting the latch up off the door.I did not have the courage to connect its the strike plate in case I could not get it off.
This unit is suppose to be going back to JLR,5 days now still waiting for a return number.

So had a go with a mock up to start with, measured strike plate with callipers and found a clamp of same diameter, looks odd in my picture, but locked. and i could release it by the green bush with the handle attached with my made up link wire. Plus without the handle with slight movement of the bush with the green bush on it.~5mm of movement....The got courage and tried it on the strike plate worked!

Before I started I tightened up the mechanism as it seemed so sloppy to me compared to my 20 year old original unit. The small plate by the green bush has a screw with a captive drilling on it to secure the bolt type thing which goes in it.This was very sloppy as supplied...I did not know if it had to be,just thought do what you think is right....Just thought it should not be sloppy.

After all this new confidence i thought i would do install... 6... and try again....and again it failed door would not open with the JLR new actuator.....Now even more lost.
I know the actuator works, but not in my door with the linkage set up as for the original actuator....this opens the door.
I think it's a poor quality part.
Guess have to wait for JLR to talk to me,I cannot send it back without a RMA...if anyone has an epiphany please tell me ...all i can think is make up a new link wire shorter so i get movement.To do this i need some bar of exactly the same size.
It concerns me if JLR do replace this withe the same "BROSE" brand it will be the same situation...perhaps try and get a scrapyard original.

View attachment 242217 View attachment 242218 View attachment 242219

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That is interesting and irritating! A couple of things I noticed, the part number in your photo, A048315, is listed as a nearside lock for a Mini Cooper. Maybe they use the same part, but seems a bit odd.

Can you try to operate the lock installed in the door but without the outside door handle attached? If it doesn't work it may be something in the door fouling the lock and stopping it working, or it will narrow it down to the connection between the handle and the lock.

PP

Thank you PP...thats interesting as maybe its just a wrong part?
Brose have been making these parts since 2018 it saye's on the web.

https://www.brose.com/de-en/

I could fit the lock without the handle ,but could not connect the lock to anything. So cannot operate it.The pull handle and button work fine on the new actuator...its just the outside handle. I will check and see.

I did put my camera in the door to have a look round a Wolf one on a long flex and it looks clean....I am sure its dimensions at fault.I think if i got both actuators and measured them I would find a difference. My only other thought is to make up a new link properly from correct steel rod and make it shorter .It will be trial and error as i cannot measure between the two points in the door.

I did think about be very brave and trying to make up one good unit from the pair, then if i get it wrong its £150 wasted.The part has a 2 year JLR warranty.
It seems pretty worthless at the moment.
I will keep at it and see what i can do.

westone said:

I could fit the lock without the handle ,but could not connect the lock to anything. So cannot operate it.The pull handle and button work fine on the new actuator...its just the outside handle. I will check and see.

Click to expand...

Just as a trial, could you attach a piece of rod to the latch and take it out of the hole that the outside handle left and see if it operates? Just a thought.

Does the central locking/unlocking work OK?

A brief look around the internet, the part number you have, A048315, seems to translate to LR FQM500120 and is suitable for the Freelander 1, Disco Sport (?) (and some Minis and BMWs), but nowhere is it listed for the Disco 2, which would be FQM100700 or ...710. Surely even Land Rover wouldn't give the same part 2 different part numbers?!

Brose made the latch on my Disco, date coded 2004, same year as the car.

Just my thought, but you probably have the wrong part which is just subtly different enough to stop it working!!

Good luck again, what a nightmare!

PP