Rear drivers side window not working

I pressed the switch to raise the window and there was a crunching sound. Now the window will not close. Just arrived at work so cannot fiddle with it. It is open anout 2 inches and I cannot force it up.
So what is likely to be the problem?

hi there
sounds like the window cables or mech has given up ,you can replace just the cables but when mine went i just got the whole thing ,cost about 35 quid new and took half hour to fit ,to me not worth messing with cables .
Trev.

Is the mechanism easy to get to?

Is there any way to get the window fully closed until I can do the repair?

You may be able to drag the window up with a hand on each side opposite each other and just drag, if you get what I mean…

Failing that, you have to take the door card off and push it up from below. Prop up with a piece of wood if it won't stay up.

By the crunching sound you heard, I'd say the cable has frayed and then snapped, which is what mine did. Window was closed, so not an issue.

Easy enough to fit a new regulator and plenty on eBay. Lube the cables of the new one before fitting.

I will need to take the door card off when I can as I cannot raise the glass no matter how hard I try.

Is the door card easy to get off?
I am guessing that a dodgy window is not part of an MOT??
I have it coming up soon and may not be able to fix this before due to work commitments.

I will need to take the door card off when I can as I cannot raise the glass no matter how hard I try.

Is the door card easy to get off?
I am guessing that a dodgy window is not part of an MOT??
I have it coming up soon and may not be able to fix this before due to work commitments.

mines the same, got a bit of a fag packet holding it up ATM, it still sailed through its MOT.
been told it will cost £225 to get it fixed.

My drivers rear window did exactly the same a few days ago.

Taking the panel off isn't too bad (I have a pre-facelift 2002). Remove the screw in the door handle (behind the bit you pull with your fingers to open the door) then the slide out the surround. Remove the two big screws in the main door pull handle (look underneath).

Then it is a matter of prising the panel away from the door as there are about 10 plastic push mounts - they tend to prise off with a pop. Remove the speaker. Carefully remove the thin plastic cover (shedding cover I think it is called). Then what I did was to wind the electric down as far as it will go, next, using one hand on the glass pull it up while electric up - if that makes sense. I then used good old duct tape to hold the window up. Using a chunk of wood sounds another good way.

Mine will have to stay like this for about a month before I get any chance due to work...

Hi there
its a relitively easy job, carefully remove the door card then the plastic cover there is one bolt to just slacken on the window clamp, pull the glass up out of the way ,then there are three more bolts to remove and the mech is free takes a bit of twisting about to get it out ,but take out put new mech in bolt in place lower glass reclamp test ,refit door card .
regards Trev .

Is this the right kit to buy? LAND ROVER FREELANDER REAR RIGHT ELECTRIC WINDOW REGULATOR 98-06 CVH101202 *NEW* | eBay

I don't want to get the wrong kit.

Thanks to all for the tips in this thread.


dog-man...


06 Freelander TD4.
Right hand drive.

Drivers side rear window is the one that needs repairing,

notice that it does not come with motor mine was about £34 complete no messing about .

Ah, my mistake. I will look again and make sure the motor is there before ordering.

If it was the cables that snapped your motor will be fine.

Buy the regulator without the motor (cheaper) and fit your existing one, 5 minute job.

Standard weakness on freelander - I've now replaced both rears on my 53 plate. As the plastic brackets holding the calves are prone to going brittle and snapping off at the end, I'd recommend buying the unit complete (motor with cables) cost me @ £35 each and easy to fit.

Correct kit now ordered.

Am I correct in thinking that the door pull handle, just pulls off to reveal 2 or 3 screws underneath?

I can see the one screw behind the door lever.

I have a habit of breaking things with brute strength, so want to avoid that if I can.

2 (or 3) screws in door handle/grab pull, One in the latch recess, then plastic poppers round bottom and up side. Once undone, lift the lot over the lock button. YouTube has it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0IsYcWTiNdc

Thanks. Hopefully doing the job on Tuesday or Wednesday.

I have just started the job of repairing my window, but I seem to have no screws in my door / grab handle.

Would they be perhaps under the silver trim on the surface of the handle?

If yes, how does this come off. I don't want to break anything.
I have tried gently using a screwdriver to prise it off, but am being very gentle until I know this is the correct method.



***EDIT***

I found out how to do it and am progressing with the repair.

New motor is in and working fine.

However, I seem to have developed a major problem and I can't see that anything I have done caused this.

When I attempt to start the car up I just get a rattling sound.
The engine does not turn over and I noticed that the trip meter has reset itself to zero.

Anyone any ideas?

It was running fine when last parked up a couple of days ago.