Rear discs and pads

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Mineleakstoo

Active Member
Posts
134
Location
Sarf London.
Just a quick one, changed rear o/s disc and pad on my 94 defender (am doing the others tomorrow) all seemed to go ok just pad furthest from wheel went in ok the one nearest the wheel was fu?()NG tight to get in, the piston felt flush with caliper will it bed in sort itself out?
Oh and if removing caliper by all means remove the 13mm ones behind (because they hold the thing there) don't remove the 2 bolts you see in front of you, that just ****es brake fluid everywhere :doh:
 
I feel you should have someone else do work on your brakes.

Why? Because I asked about a tight pad? thread locked all bolts as required, torqued them correctly, Yes ideally someone else would be great but seems if followed instructions not hit and hope (yes albeit with a silly mistake which was rectified) its a do able task.
Kes where do you live, if local you could come do them that way I could go watch world war z tomorrow.
 
He's probably referring to how you appear to have not taken the time to research and learn how it works and should be done.
Don't forget if you get it wrong it could result in accident that could kill you, or anyone else who is unfortunate enough to be nearby when your brakes fail.
 
On the contrary I take the job very seriously, researched, brought tools enabling me to do it properly to spec, made a mistake and rectified it immediately, it has all gone back together and runs stops, my original question was about a tight brake pad, and the reason I asked was that if anybody had any experience of this and it was something simple then I could re visit it (even more research), maybe as I asked this may be normal so all good; that's the idea of a forum.
 
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Yes. I was possibly a bit harsh. But after the third night in a row lying under my 90 rectifying the previous owners errors, I was grumpy.

The latest problem is that I changed a noisy rear diff only now to find the pinion on the old diff was left loose with the centre punch marks lined up.

Anyway enough of my problems.

The pistons in the rear calipers should push back flush with the inner face of the caliper, if they don't the pistons are sticking. It may be worth cleaning off the outer edge of the pistons to get them fully back into the caliper.

Otherwise check the disk is sitting in the middle of the pad hole of the caliper in case the problem is there and not the caliper. Try pads in both sides in case there is a manufacturing fault.

Don't drive with the pads binding, as it will heat them up and fade the brakes and smells terrible.

Don't undo the big bolts on the caliper they are best left alone unless you have a new o ring to re seal them.
 
If its the outside pad then that sounds like the hub isn't tight on the bearing and allowing the disc/hub assembly to sit to far out. I suspect this is the case as you have correctly followed the instructions the bit that is missed in every manual is where after you tighten the hub up to the correct torque (pre fitting of lock washers) stick the wheel back on give it a few spins check for play, re tighten and repeat a few times until the bearing has settled properly in and there is no play then fit lock washers, remove wheel and reassemble the rest.
 
Yes. I was possibly a bit harsh. But after the third night in a row lying under my 90 rectifying the previous owners errors, I was grumpy.

The latest problem is that I changed a noisy rear diff only now to find the pinion on the old diff was left loose with the centre punch marks lined up.

Anyway enough of my problems.

The pistons in the rear calipers should push back flush with the inner face of the caliper, if they don't the pistons are sticking. It may be worth cleaning off the outer edge of the pistons to get them fully back into the caliper.

Otherwise check the disk is sitting in the middle of the pad hole of the caliper in case the problem is there and not the caliper. Try pads in both sides in case there is a manufacturing fault.

Don't drive with the pads binding, as it will heat them up and fade the brakes and smells terrible.

Don't undo the big bolts on the caliper they are best left alone unless you have a new o ring to re seal them.

It's good to hear about others problems, and if cute little pink towbars suddenly become all the rage then bud you have no issues there whatsoever ;)

Anyway back to MY problems because its all about ME and MY rover.
Anyway i was lying here last night having sex with the mrs and I got to thinking that I haven't tightened the inner hub nut hard enough to set everything back another mm, maybe that's why your supposed to turn it to 61nm and then back it off to 4nm. Got a deep 52mm socket coming so can be more exact.
 
If its the outside pad then that sounds like the hub isn't tight on the bearing and allowing the disc/hub assembly to sit to far out. I suspect this is the case as you have correctly followed the instructions the bit that is missed in every manual is where after you tighten the hub up to the correct torque (pre fitting of lock washers) stick the wheel back on give it a few spins check for play, re tighten and repeat a few times until the bearing has settled properly in and there is no play then fit lock washers, remove wheel and reassemble the rest.

Spooky I just read you reply, thank you very much and will follow your instruction of putting the wheel on and checking for play before re assembly, I thought the wheel bearings would be jammed into the hub but they came out easily and went back in easily, is that the way they should be and the tightening of the hub nut pushes everything back in as it should be?
 
Spooky I just read you reply, thank you very much and will follow your instruction of putting the wheel on and checking for play before re assembly, I thought the wheel bearings would be jammed into the hub but they came out easily and went back in easily, is that the way they should be and the tightening of the hub nut pushes everything back in as it should be?

The bearings should slide on and off easily and yup the hub nut holds it all together. I personally don't use a torque wrench on this part I do it by feel so you want the nut as tight as is required to remove the play from the bearing. so turn it it very small amounts whilst spinning the wheel and giving it a shake you will know if it is too tight as the wheel pretty much stops dead. Hope it helps
 
The bearings should slide on and off easily and yup the hub nut holds it all together. I personally don't use a torque wrench on this part I do it by feel so you want the nut as tight as is required to remove the play from the bearing. so turn it it very small amounts whilst spinning the wheel and giving it a shake you will know if it is too tight as the wheel pretty much stops dead. Hope it helps

Buddy a big help and put my mind at rest that the bearings DO slip on and off easily, and will attach the wheel and do it as I didn't do that yesterday.
 
It's good to hear about others problems, and if cute little pink towbars suddenly become all the rage then bud you have no issues there whatsoever ;)

Anyway back to MY problems because its all about ME and MY rover.
Anyway i was lying here last night having sex with the mrs and I got to thinking that I haven't tightened the inner hub nut hard enough to set everything back another mm, maybe that's why your supposed to turn it to 61nm and then back it off to 4nm. Got a deep 52mm socket coming so can be more exact.

2 other important things to point out


1 don't think about your landy when having sex

2 don't let your partner read this post as when they find out you were thinking about your landy whilst having sex then the next we will probably hear from you is your obituary.
😄😄😄😄😄
 
2 other important things to point out


1 don't think about your landy when having sex

2 don't let your partner read this post as when they find out you were thinking about your landy whilst having sex then the next we will probably hear from you is your obituary.
😄😄😄😄😄

But I think about sex when working on the landie so surely this just evens it up? :crazy_driver:
 
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