Rear Diff

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cruicky68

New Member
Posts
53
Location
Ayr, Scotland
Hi All,
I had oil leaking out from the propshaft oil seal on the rear diff. Took the propshaft off & found that the flange has excessive play. I then removed the oil level plug & found it covered in metallic gunk. Safe to say my diff is knackered, albeit quiet ie no whine coming from it.
Now am I right in saying all freelander 1 diff's are the same except the 2.5 V6 model? I think its the same unit on the petrol models & the TD4?
Next question how easy is it to rebuild? I see kits on fleabay for about £50-£60 for new bearings & seals etc. The fact my diff is quiet it might be suitable for a home rebuild kit.
Any advise welcome, thanks in advance
Col
 
I think even the V6 may be the same, the ratio is the same on the rear diff and they like to use established parts whenever possible. As far as I know it's only the IRD that changed on the V6.

Rebuild would be easy enough if it was not for the need to re-shim for correct lash in crownwheel/pinion. Pinion bearings also need new crush sleeve and correct torque on pinion nut.:D
 
I opened a genuine original v6 rear diff recently. If I remember correctly the ring gear has 45 teeth and the pinion gear has 14 teeth. You often find a little bit of metal on the filler plug as it has a magnet on the end. It's when the bits are big or become shavings that something major is up. Running temperature can be a good indication of problems.
 
If I'm just changing the bearings do I need to re-shim lash on crown wheel & pinion? Looking at the haynes bible diff rebuild doesn't look too worrying.......lol
 
A diff carrier bearing change is easy enough. Don't forget there are 2 sizes of bearing so you'll need to get the correct replacement.
 
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I've just bought a complete diff via GT4*4 Ltd. Just been planning out how I'm going to tackle the pending diff change. Propshaft disconnect, the 2 driveshafts pulled out, then its the three mountings to disconnect. Question is will the unit come forward towards the front or will I need to take the rear exhaust box off?
Anyone tackled this job & know what is the best option.
Cheers lads
Col
 
They had TVK100380 up to vin 2A374724
and TVK000180 for vin 2A374725 onwards.
TVK000180 also superseded TVK100380.

according to 2010 microcat
 
Job started.......... Stripping the rear driveshafts out is some job, I had hoped that I could get enough movement by just taking the 2 strut mounting bolts to hub......NO THAT DIDN'T WORK....... Start again in the with fresh head......lol
 
if you want to remove the rear shafts undo the 2 arms that bolt the wheel area to the subframe lay under the car and push the drum or wheel if you refit outwards while using ya hands to move the end of the driveshaft done this with new seals and is easy just make sure you clean the bolt threads up and soak them in penetrating oil for a while it helps
 
Driveshafts both out, easy when you know how.....Thanks Matt1295. Old diff out, new diff up & bolted into place. I've cleaned & painted the sub-frame so not rebuilding the rest till paint is dry.
 
now I am confused .But is it the same one with mods in it:eek:
Peeps have said they're the same, but LR wouldn't have made a special for the v6 for no reason. It would be a waste of money. Gearing is said to be the same so strength must be the difference. Would be nice if someone taking a non v6 diff apart could count the teeth on the gears to compare. I can upload pic's if you want to see inside it.
 
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Job done, taken it for a short test drive & all seems well. New diff nice & quiet and no sign of gear oil dripping out. I never took any pictures, never thought. I'm going to strip my old diff just to see how much damage/wear there is........ I'll take pictures of the diff unit strip down. If not too bad I might do the bearing's just in case my new unit doesn't last, God know's how many miles are on it.
 
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