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Rear diff pinion oil seal change

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by jedi, Apr 11, 2010.

  1. jedi

    jedi Well-Known Member

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    Hi has anyone done the above? I need to change my seal, and was looking for some advice. When I remove the flange will I have enough room to remove the oils seal? any tips for doing this, or does it just pull out.

    In rave it states tightening the flang bolt up to certain torques, is this nessesary as I am not replaceing the collapsable spacer. I`m just going to tighten to what it was before. Also it mentions endfloat, what exactly is endfloat. is it the ammount the pinion moves in and out.

    Can this seal be changed in situ, or does the whole rear diff have to come out.
     
  2. Chaser

    Chaser New Member

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    You must change the collapsible spacer in order to get the correct pre-load on the tapered pinion bearings.

    There's no problem prising out the seal.

    End float is the amount of in and out movement. In this case there should be no movement after fitting the new spacer and seal.
     
  3. jedi

    jedi Well-Known Member

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    where can I get a collapsable spacer from, is this a main dealer item only? I`ve never seen them anywhere else. in rave it also mentions the pre-load as being 1.5-2.7Nm .how would I measure this in-out movement in Nm`s?

    Do I have to change the spacer? is in a must? what would happen if I did`nt?
     
  4. Chaser

    Chaser New Member

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    The danger in not changing the spacer is that either that the inner bearing race is free to turn or there is too much preload which will force out lubrication. I would think the spacer is a dealer only part. The bearing preload quoted in Nm is measured with a running torque gauge. It measures the torque required to turn the pinion which is why the driveshafts should be removed.

    I can't imagine your going to do it this way considering you only want to fix an oil leak so use plenty of common sense and finesse, leave the bearing and old spacer alone change the seal and torque up the pinion nut to the stated torque value then tighten a gnats cock just to be sure the inner race of the bearing is held fast against the spacer. The idea is to make sure that there is no end float (so pull hard in and out on the flange) but not to tighten enough to give excessive preload.

    There is always a little rotational free-play (backlash) so when you have finished you should feel a slight resistance when turning the free play back and to with your hand.
     
  5. jedi

    jedi Well-Known Member

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    I will try the "gnats cock" method, using what common sense and finess I have. yes you are right, I don`t really want to be undoing the whole back end to to stop a tiny oil leak.

    If I balls it up then I will have no option but to remove the diff and refurb it. At least I will have an excuse for doing so.

    I`ll just undo the flange nut, remove flange, then gently remove the seal, trying not to move the pinion too must, then quickly insert new seal (will normal socket do the trick), and tighten up to the specific torque.
     
  6. Chaser

    Chaser New Member

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    For fitting the seal just improvise with whatever you have of the correct size.
     
  7. jedi

    jedi Well-Known Member

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    Finally managed to change the oil seal, I had more trouble getting the prop shaft bolts off, than anything else, then the big flange bolt was a nightmare, eventualy I got anoyed with it, and started rocking the wrench backwards and forwards and it freed itself.

    The bearing came out also, but looked in good nick, considering there was about 4 tea spoons of oil left in it. Popped the new seal in (I used the top of a spray can for this) tightened to where it was before, and then a "gnats cock" and so far no leaks.


    Thanks agiain for all your helps peoples. I mean Chaser:p
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2010