Series 3 Rear diff parts

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Grimshaw

Member
Posts
13
Hi, all,
Does anyone know the part numbers for replacement studs & nuts for the rear rover-type diff?
I've taken the diff off to repair a broken half-shaft and the nuts & bolts that attach the diff to the axle casing need replacing.
I've got 561195 or 561196 for the studs??
How easy are they go get out of the axle, do they "just" push out?
Thanks.
 
Just had a quick look at parts book, it looks like the early ones are studs and the later ones are bolts. Those numbers are the studs, .and it looks like the are 2 lenghts with 4 short and 6 long, but my book lists 2 threads for the studs as well BSF for early and UNF for later. If you have the bolt its 47042 but it lists 2 nuts, BSF or UNF and it lists 8 bolts but 10 studs so I'm at a loss. So it looks like you could have studs or bolts in BSF or UNF which is not much help. Can you feel the bolt heads inside? If its bolts it looks simple as you can swap the lot for matching bolts and nuts, if its studs you'll have to ID the thread. Try an known 3/8 UNF nut and it is stiff after 2 turns its BSF.
 
Just had a quick look at parts book, it looks like the early ones are studs and the later ones are bolts. Those numbers are the studs, .and it looks like the are 2 lenghts with 4 short and 6 long, but my book lists 2 threads for the studs as well BSF for early and UNF for later. If you have the bolt its 47042 but it lists 2 nuts, BSF or UNF and it lists 8 bolts but 10 studs so I'm at a loss. So it looks like you could have studs or bolts in BSF or UNF which is not much help. Can you feel the bolt heads inside? If its bolts it looks simple as you can swap the lot for matching bolts and nuts, if its studs you'll have to ID the thread. Try an known 3/8 UNF nut and it is stiff after 2 turns its BSF.

Mine are definitely studs, I’ve had my head in the axle case and checked.
 
OK the image makes sense of it. They are 3/8 UNF and push out (or hammer out):
23096-561196.jpg
 
Hi, all - any tips for getting the new bolts in?? They press in from behind (inside the axle casing) but they're a really tight fit to push through and not much space to weild a hammer at them.
Warm the axle casing with a blow lamp??
 
Hi, all - any tips for getting the new bolts in?? They press in from behind (inside the axle casing) but they're a really tight fit to push through and not much space to weild a hammer at them.
Warm the axle casing with a blow lamp??
tap them to start, then use a spacer on the thread and wind them in with a 3/8 unf nut
 
See if you can get some "stud joiner" nuts. These are long and they spread the load when you are pulling things together. Lots of copper slip too.
 
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