rear diff mounts

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cerenko

New Member
Posts
47
Has anyone changed the rear diff mounts on td4 and if so are they easey to do or is it a garage job, i do most of my own servicing and changed the egr so not afraid to have a go, cannot find anything in the haynes manual,

Thanks pete.
 
Easy enough to do. I've just done mine on my 1.8k, although i've only changed the front mount.

It's fiddly but if you remove the center bolts on all three mounts, put a jack under the diff, then you'll get enough movement to remove the front mount without removing anything else. Put quite a bit of wd40 or gt85 on the bolts before trying to undo, some will be quite tight.
 
how did you center the rear diff exactly..the manual tells that it has to be done with the LRT-51-013 tool ? thank you
I have changed the central silent block without removing the rear difff..and now i have noise .
 
I'm about to change my rear diff mounts this weekend. Can take some pic's if you like. Feeling a bit cautious about it so I'll try to remove one at a time, and support it so it dunt move. Would be interesting to know how others have centred the diff? Would it be better to drop the rear frame a little?
 
Spooky thread.
Changed all 3 on our TD4 this morning took about 2 hours in total.
The diff will pretty much realign itself with the new mountings, plus there is always enough give in the propshaft UJ's which they are designed to do.
To be honest the front one was completely shot, hence the clonking when backing off to go round a corner and then accelerating.
The front one is the hardest, especially getting the new one in but the use of a crow bar soon had the diff eased to one side and up to get it in.
As others have said either remove or almost remove the rear main bolts as this will help in easing the diff.
The rears are a piece of cake to do. offside being the easier as there is no exhaust in the way for removing the centre bolt.
For the near side undo the 2 x 13mm bolts onto the diff casing completely then the 15mm centre nut can be undone and then angled enough to get the bolt out without having to remove the exhaust.
As also said above soak them first with WD40 or similar and if you have a long bar for your sockets it will help getting them started.
I just put the back wheels up on ramps and there was plenty of room to work.
Got ours from Island 4x4 in Kent took 2 days from order to arrive and cost £45.00 or thereabouts for all 3.
 
cobra andy said:
Spooky thread.
Changed all 3 on our TD4 this morning took about 2 hours in total.
The diff will pretty much realign itself with the new mountings, plus there is always enough give in the propshaft UJ's which they are designed to do.
To be honest the front one was completely shot, hence the clonking when backing off to go round a corner and then accelerating.
The front one is the hardest, especially getting the new one in but the use of a crow bar soon had the diff eased to one side and up to get it in.
As others have said either remove or almost remove the rear main bolts as this will help in easing the diff.
The rears are a piece of cake to do. offside being the easier as there is no exhaust in the way for removing the centre bolt.
For the near side undo the 2 x 13mm bolts onto the diff casing completely then the 15mm centre nut can be undone and then angled enough to get the bolt out without having to remove the exhaust.
As also said above soak them first with WD40 or similar and if you have a long bar for your sockets it will help getting them started.
I just put the back wheels up on ramps and there was plenty of room to work.
Got ours from Island 4x4 in Kent took 2 days from order to arrive and cost £45.00 or thereabouts for all 3.
Click to expand...
Does this bit refer to the rear diff mount bolts, or the subframe bolts?

Great post. Just about to start mine now.
 
Just finnished. What a job that was. Dropped the subframe a little to help get the front mount in.
 
Decided not to get my hands dirty and took it to my local landrover garage, (not dealers) they only charged me £36.00 to fit them and 30 min's waiting time.
08
 
I watched the mechanic doing the job which looked very easy, he never used any Lazar or tool to line the diff after fitting or used any special tools, simply loosened the bolts on the back supports took all the bolts out of the front one and then pushed the diff upwards which enabled him to remove the support. fitting just as easy and a good job done, picture of shot front diff support attached, car now a pleasure to drive again.
 

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