Freelander 1 Rear Diff Mount Replacement - How to Guide

Updated 29 July 2015

This write-up shows the steps I took to change the rear diff mounts on my Freelander 1 2001 v6. The front (centre) mount failed, so needed replaced. One of the rear mounts was starting to fail too, so I changed all 3 rear diff mounts at the same time. The video below shows the movement of the failed front mount. If yours is ok, it won't move as much as this.

YouTube- Freelander 1 2001 v6 Centre Diff Mount Fail

Note: I have no financial gain from writing this guide or being a member of the forum. I don't sell parts or own a business. I own a Freelander and have done for many years which is why I'm a member of this forum.

To access the underside of my Freelander I use 4 wooden HippoRamps, which I can drive up. This lifts the car 6 inches in the air for better access underneath. Also keeps it stable and level to work under.

HippoRamp build instructions over ere: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hipporamps-how-to-guide.257760.html

Warning: You need to chock the front wheels to stop your Freelander rolling. Don't rely on the handbrake on its own.


hipporamps EGR3kqR

Land Rover produces a special jig to correctly align the rear diff when replacing the mounts. As I don't have access to the jig, I took several different measurements to help me locate the diff in the same place later on. It's easy to replace the mounts without the jig. The measurements I took were optional.


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Disconnect the rear propeller (prop) shaft to rear diff connection shown above. E12 torx bolts and 17mm nuts x4. If you can't reach the nut at the top, drive the car forwards 10 inches. This will rotate the propeller shaft 90 degrees.


reardiff i6x8NPF

Separate the prop shaft from the rear diff and support. I used an axle stand. The rear prop shaft weighs 7kg. If it's allowed to drop, you risk damaging the universal joint at the other end.


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Support the rear diff. I used an axle stand.


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All the diff mounts use captive nuts. Hence you only need to remove the bolts.

Pictured below is the right hand side (RHS) diff mount. Loosen the 2x 13mm bolts securing the mount to the diff. Now loosen the 15mm bolt securing the mount to the frame.


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Pictured below is the left hand side (LHS) diff mount. Loosen the 2x 13mm bolts securing the mount to the diff. Now loosen the 15mm bolt securing the mount to the frame.


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View of both the LHS and RHS rear diff mounts from underneath.


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Rear view of the centre (front) diff mount.


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Pictured below is the centre (front) diff mount. Loosen the 2x 13mm bolts securing the mount to the diff. Now loosen the 15mm bolt securing the mount to the frame.


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With the diff still supported, remove all 3 bolts on the RHS rear diff mount. Remove the mount from the bracket and replace with a new mount. Fit the larger bolt through the bracket first, then the other 2 bolts holding the diff. Leave the bolts finger tight for now.


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New RHS diff mount pictured below fitted.


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3 rear mounts pictured below. Note the difference between the RHS and LHS new mounts.


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Below are examples of the length of bolts securing each diff mount.


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With the diff still supported, remove all 3 bolts on the LHS rear diff mount. Remove the mount from the bracket and replace with a new mount. Fit the 15mm bolt through the bracket first, then the other 2 bolts holding the diff. Leave the bolts finger tight for now. The bolts on the mount are a little difficult to get to. Easily done if you have an extension bar and elbow. New LHS diff mount pictured below fitted.


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The centre diff mount is the most difficult to replace due to lack of space. Make sure you remember how you took it out of it's bracket to help you to know how to fit the new one. Support the diff and remove the RHS rear mount centre bolt, then remove the diff centre mount bolts, then replace the centre mount. Lever the diff a bit with a length of wood if you need too. Be careful and don't force anything. Removing the RHS rear mount centre bolt allows you to push the front of the diff away from the centre mount, to allow for more room to replace the mount. You can then replace the centre mount, reposition the diff and refit the rear RHS mount centre bolt.

With the diff supported, loosen and remove the 15mm bolt securing the RHS rear diff mount to the bracket. Push the front of the diff away from the centre mount whilst taking care to continue to support the diff, and remove the old centre diff mount and replace with a new one. Push the diff back to it's central position and refit the 15mm bolt through the RHS rear diff mount. Now fit the bolts which secure the centre diff mount. Fit the larger bolt through the bracket first, then the other 2 bolts holding the diff. Leave the bolts finger tight for now.


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With all the bolt loose the diff should locate itself naturally. If you took measurements before then use them to confirm the alignment/position of the diff whilst following the steps below.

Whilst all 9 diff mounts are finger tight, allow the diff to sit centrally and align.

Torque the 2x 13mm bolts securing the centre diff mount to the diff, to 65Nm.
Torque the 2x 13mm bolts securing the RHS diff mount to the diff, to 65Nm.
Torque the 2x 13mm bolts securing the LHS diff mount to the diff, to 65Nm.
Torque the 15mm bolt securing the centre diff mount to the bracket to 120Nm.
Torque the 15mm bolt securing the RHS diff mount to the bracket to 120Nm.
Torque the 15mm bolt securing the RHS diff mount to the bracket to 120Nm.

New centre diff mount pictured below fitted.


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Connect the rear propeller shaft to the rear diff. Use a small amount of grease on the mating faces. E12 torx bolts and 17mm nuts x4. Torque is 65Nm. If for some reason the prop has turned and the holes don't line up, put a long screw driver through the rear prop shaft universal joint and turn the rear prop shaft. Make sure the Freelander is held stationary whilst doing this.


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Lower your Freelander to the ground and test-drive.

Old centre diff mount pictured below. Rips through the rubber either side of the centre support tube have caused this mount to fail.


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Old and new mounts.


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Hippo,

Just a word of thanks. With your excellent guide I was able to replace my diff mounts. There was some pain, sweat and tears, but at least I knew what I was doing (which is unheard of!).

I'm now doing repairs that I never thought possible which in the past would have had me running to the nearest expensive garage.

Thanks again keep up the good work.

Now for me its a creaky rear off side to tackle (cracked sub frame bolt/captive nut?). I'm sure that I will find a guide to that on here as well.

Good luck
Sailorden

Its in the Q & A section - http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/freelander-tech-bulletin0112-creaking-rear-75223.html

Hi

Forgive me but where is the Q & A section. I cant seem to find it?

Thanks
Sailorden

Thank you for the photos!

My question: How should i recognise while im driving, that one of the mountings has failed?

Thanks in advance

knocking under the floor when driving harshly, ie quick take off, hard gearchange etc.

On my vehicle i hear constantly a knocking coming under the car when i change the gears by leaving the clutch pedal..Are these the same symptoms?Thank you Freelance!

Hi

Yep, or maybe the sub frame mount. Have a look at your diff mount 1st. Here's mine (good condition eh!)

Sailorden

HIPPO.....
Your a legend! I used your guide to do my mounts on tuesday!

Great guide!

I even had my laptop under the car with me.

Nice how to and good photo's thank's for sharing

I love LandyZone!! I too never used to tackle car repairs, but with this forum I have to date done.

HP Pump overhaul
LP Pump replacement
New Turbo
Injectors
....

Without this forum I would not have been able to do this.

Now that I too have a knocking under the floor on a hard gear change I will follow this guide and replace the rear diff mounts.

Thanks for posting this!

I done my mounts on saturday, although i hadn't first seen this thread, took me, about an hour and a half including a quick stop for a coffee in the middle, what i found is that my removing all three center bolts, the nose of the diff could be moved towards the nearside (without first removing the prop) and the mount came out over the top. by lifting the rear of the diff i had good access to remove the mount to diff bolts on both of the rear mounts, then lower the tail of the diff and the mounts easily passed over the top of the subframe.

excellent guide, and having read the replys i now know that the knocking i thought was the exhaust is actually the rear diff moving, blew a tyre today and thought/think i may have an issue with nsf bearing, not sure but when moving the wheel which seemed strangely ok i heard the knocking from the rear of the vehicle which i had been thinking was the exhaust until now.

bloody eck, that diff has an inch or more of movement. will be replacing bloody soon lol. wheres best to get them are they all the same or engine model specific?

done loads on this truck since last posting, keep getting regular clutch issues, thats another thread lol

cheers jason

Buy oem mounts, they last longer!!

The rubber in oem mounts help to reduce vibration transfer as it's softer rubber than some of the aftermarket mounts, or the polly bush type. But not too soft which would make them fail quickly. Also the shape of the rubber helps it flex too.

Edit: The 2nd best option is to buy a genuine front rear diff mount, an 2x quality after market mounts if required. This would overall be a lot cheaper if you intend to keep the FL.

Edit: there are differing quality of after market mounts. Look around the Freelander section for what other have bought.

considering i can get on eb*y for 35 quid, and landrover oem are 85 per lh/rh side theres no contest. don't mind having to replace them for cheap ones in future, if the car lasts as long as new mounts lol. can't afford the oem ones, would scrap the car for 180 quid worth of mounts, not to mention the tyres and abs sensor still needed. all adds up.

would break it and sell parts but need to replace it immediatly if i did that lol and need the money out of this car to buy new one lol, tow trailers every/every other day including horsebox so need 4x4 truck lol

Ok. The 2nd best option is to buy a genuine front rear diff mount, an 2x quality after market mounts if required. This would overall be a lot cheaper if you intend to keep the FL.

awesome. thanks for the advice hippo think i'll try and do that then.

Hi Jason.
I tried the after market ones lasted 4 months so keep well away if I were you, I then fitted DURAFLEX ones and have never looked back still going strong, and I expect them to out live the car,I used red ones but you can get yellow or black.

Very easy to fit the Duraflex into the original mounts Arctic2
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...858490?hash=item3ab988e07a:g:ZNcAAOSwEK9T0ljn

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...009705?hash=item3ab6aec329:g:HqEAAOSwQItUEand

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...582279?hash=item3d09276707:g:F08AAOSwnDZT0laJ